The neighbors have a (06/03) '04 Sebring LXi. He got the car as a fixer-upper but just hasn't had any time to work on it. He was driving the car to work until they moved into the area and now has a company truck. So while he's at work, she's trying to sell it. I offered to post the car on the local South Texas Mopars - Facebook site and that's when I found the car has some problems. The first thing I would like check is the CEL(s). I own a '02 Dodge Ram and have been a member since '06 and part of the staff on DodgeTalk.com since 2010. I tried the 'Dodge Key Dance' and I only got the gauge cluster test and then long system test with no codes. I did the off-on cycle three times with and without pushing the trip button. I know the test doesn't work on the '04 Dodge Rams. Is it the same with the '04 Sebrings? I tried one of my programmers with the hope it could at least read the code(s) but the OBDII port did not even light-up the display. Oh well, it was long shot anyway.

Once I find out which and maybe solve the CEL(s), I'll move onto why the radio and door locks are not working. This Sebring is also one of those with the oil light flicker. Hopefully it's not a sign of sludge in the engine. But I'm wanting to check and solve these as go because I have no idea if they want to put any money into the car or just dump it.

 

Try taking it to AutoZone or PepBoys or maybe another parts store and get the codes read. Many parts stores will do it for free in the hopes of selling you some parts.

The sludge was more of a problem with earlier 2.7L engines, take a peek in the oil fill opening. Bad sludge could be visible there.

The oil light flicker does not necessarily mean sludge. The sending units are a known problem. There's a How-To with pictures over on the Chrysler Sebring Convertible Club website.

As for the radio and door locks, check the IOD (ignition off draw) fuse. It's the one with "ears" in the middle of the fuse panel at the left end of the dashboard.

Good luck. Come back and tell us how it went.

 

I'll stop and get a sending unit while I'm out but I may have to get one of those cheap code readers at Harbor Freight. The Texas state inspection and tags are past due on the vehicle by more than six months so there's no driving it more than you have too. Starting this year, Texas went to one sticker system for both tags. You have to past the state inspection, you get a paper showing you pasted plus it goes into the computer, and then you have one or two months to get the state tags... something like that. But if they were to take the car in for an inspection with the CEL, it's an autonomic fail but they would still have to pay the fee. Then I think you get two more tries to pass.

I'll post up when I know more... Thanks!

 

Well, I got the reader and oil pressure switch.... I got a big drink of water because it feels like a bazillion degrees out there.... everything in hand and ready to check the Sebring.... went next door and no body there! Oh well, I guess it'll all have to wait.

 

South Texas in August. Don't you have air conditioning in the garage?

 

No body was home again today so I'm just waiting.

And nope and it's been about a 103 to 105-degrees for the last week with no relief in sight. With all the moisture in the air, the heat index is around 115! If I wanted that crap, I would have stayed in Phoenix! All the garages down here are just enclosed with no HVAC and their car is outside under a very large oak tree. The garage is a-little cooler than working out on the driveway but not by much. I've thought of adding a Mitsubishi ductless unit but that's $1200 to $1500-bucks from what I can tell. It does seem to be the best option and my stack of parts for our vehicles is getting bigger while I wait for the cooler temps. I do know, the window unit would be far cheaper. Anyway, I believe having the the house HVAC tied to the garage is against city codes. Having all those fumes pulled into system and then dumped into the house wouldn't be a good idea.

 

Got pretty warm here today, too. All the way up to 79°. It's down to 66° right now. Still, I'll put on the a/c upstairs in the bedroom for a few minutes before turning in.

 

Okay, why can I not get the IOD fuse out? It will pull so far and stop and will not pull out any father. What gives?

 

Okay, we pulled and pulled until the think finely came out and I put my Fluke meter to it; it's bad. I'm hoping with the new fuse the OBDII port with work now. That's the next weird thing. The code reader worked on my truck but not their car. So I'm hoping all these little problem go bad to the IOD fuse.

 

The IOD fuse is supposed to come loose easily. The purpose of the thing is to shut down all the little things that can draw current when the key is off, like the receiver for the remote key and the clock and the power seats and the interior light, I think. The idea is that when the car comes to the dealership, they don't want those things slowly drawing the battery down, so the dealer loosens the fuse by popping it part way out. If they need to bring it all back up in a hurry, they can push the fuse back in and bingo, the car's ready to show to a customer. I don't think it has anything to do with the OBD port, so maybe that's another issue.