Chrysler 200 & Sebring Whether it be the sedan, coupe, or convertible, this mid-sized model offers a touch of class to every style in it's lineup

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Old Jun 16, 2017 | 09:14 PM
  #1  
george3405's Avatar
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Default No go!

a couple of weeks ago my 2001 Chrysler Sebring convertible 2.7 did not start when my son took it to school. I had replaced the starter a couple of months previously. I turned on the headlights and turned the key to start. No start and the lights did not dim at all. I had it towed home. We have had rain about every day and with work I haven't had a chance to get it jacked up to check the starter. The battery tonight was 12.33 volts and it is about 3 years old. Everything else on the car seems to work. The only problem I can remember, when we changed the starter was that the plug on connector plugged onto the starter, but would not lock on. We taped it to hold it. I do not know how it would have pulled off. I did do the gauges test. The test where you push in the odometer button and trun the key from stop run and start. The code I got was "buS with the check engine light. Does that tell anything. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, George
 
Old Jun 16, 2017 | 10:55 PM
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The "bus" is the network (data buss) in the car that connects the various computers and components that are controlled by the computers. If your data buss goes down you are not going anywhere. You may be heading for a trip to the dealer where they can run some serious diagnostics.
 
Old Jul 3, 2017 | 08:53 AM
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Default no go

Dcotter,

Would that let everything else work, but keep the starter from working. I took the starter out and had it tested and it is good. I have power on the battery cable coming to the starter. As far as I have tested there is a ground also. When I turn the key to start it is like the car's neutral safety switch is keeping it from turning over. The lights on the dash light up, but no start. Add to that the situation that often when I try to start there is a clicking under the intake manifold (possibly fuel injectors) that keeps clicking even after I turn the key to off. The clicking keeps up until I disconnect and reconnect the battery negative terminal or remove and reinstall the fuse (?)/ possibly relay for the computer. Does that help any? Thank you, George
 
Old Jul 3, 2017 | 10:03 AM
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If you have power to the solenoid (yellow wire) and ground the starter should turn over unless the starter is bad or the engine is seized. I suspect that you don't have power to the solenoid. Did you check both the 20 amp fuse and the starter relay. I would check them first before I tore anything apart in the steering column.

John
 
Old Jul 3, 2017 | 09:46 PM
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Default no go

I have checked the fuse and installed a new relay I had. Still no go. Plus whenever I try to start, a clicking starts, under the intake manifold, and continues until I remove the battery cable and reinstall it. I did not have power on the yellow wire. Could it be the range sensor on the tranny. Never had any problems. No go just came with no warning. If it is the network are there any checks I can do? Could this be a bad ignition switch? As I said there were no warnings, it just happened. Thanks, George
 
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 09:20 PM
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NO BUS no communication between computer aka car will not start no matter what you do. This is a computer issue no way around it.
 
Old Jul 8, 2017 | 08:12 AM
  #7  
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Default No go fixed!

The problem is fixed. I took the engine control module (computer) out of my 2002 Sebring and put it in my 2001. It cranked over. About $400. For a remanufactured computer and it will be back on the road. In this case no bus meant bad computer. A 10 minute fix. Thanks everybody for your help. George
 
Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:22 PM
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2009 Chrysler 300c brand new Battery discharging problem
Hi Forum Members
I have a 2009 Chrysler 300C Touring last week it drained the battery. I purchased a brand new 100ah battery because the battery was nine years old. I then charged it fully and installed it in my Chrysler and it started well.

The next morning I went to start the car up and the battery was dead. I would be grateful for any ideas of what my cause the battery to discharge

Yours Sincerely

Jeananddanny
 
Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:40 PM
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You need to use an ammeter to see how much of a draw you have. Disconnect the negative battery cable and put the ammeter between the cable and battery terminal. If you have more than 50 milliamps then you have too much draw on the system. Start removing fuses and relays one at a time until the draw goes down. You can also remove the heavy wire from the alternator (make sure the battery cable is off when you do it). Then isolate the wire so it doesn't touch anything and reconnect the battery cable overnight. If your battery is good the next day then you have a short in your alternator.

John
 
Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jopizz
You need to use an ammeter to see how much of a draw you have. Disconnect the negative battery cable and put the ammeter between the cable and battery terminal. If you have more than 50 milliamps then you have too much draw on the system. Start removing fuses and relays one at a time until the draw goes down. You can also remove the heavy wire from the alternator (make sure the battery cable is off when you do it). Then isolate the wire so it doesn't touch anything and reconnect the battery cable overnight. If your battery is good the next day then you have a short in your alternator.

John
Hi John
many thanks for that very helpful information will be trying that first thing tomorrow
best regards
jeananddanny
 




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