No radio, door locks, mirror, dome light not working
Hi, please can you help.
i have a 2006 Sebring 2.7L Touring. It has a 6 month old battery, and yesterday the car drove ok, then after parking, it did not start. Totally dead. I jumped the battery, and smoke came from alternator area and car did not start so I got car towed to mechanic. He said alternator and serpentine belt replaced and car runs ok. He said he did charge battery!
i got home and noticed the rear truck release, electronic door locks, mirrors, radio, dome light also do not work. The car drives ok.
the check engine light flashes 10 times then solid.
All fuses look ok. I did not check relays, just basic pullout fuses.
Any idea where to start?
Thanks
Solution found:
There is a fuse on driver side, fuse box near door. Inside is a fuse hidden from view inside a black fuse holder with 2 plastic 'ears', grab the ends of this plastic and pull out about 1/4 inch, then in the MIDDLE of this, is a tab put your finger nail in and swing middle plastic 'gate' out sideways. This will now expose the small regular fuse. I replaced it, and everything works fine. Do not pull the black plastic fuse holder out entirely!
i have a 2006 Sebring 2.7L Touring. It has a 6 month old battery, and yesterday the car drove ok, then after parking, it did not start. Totally dead. I jumped the battery, and smoke came from alternator area and car did not start so I got car towed to mechanic. He said alternator and serpentine belt replaced and car runs ok. He said he did charge battery!
i got home and noticed the rear truck release, electronic door locks, mirrors, radio, dome light also do not work. The car drives ok.
the check engine light flashes 10 times then solid.
All fuses look ok. I did not check relays, just basic pullout fuses.
Any idea where to start?
Thanks
Solution found:
There is a fuse on driver side, fuse box near door. Inside is a fuse hidden from view inside a black fuse holder with 2 plastic 'ears', grab the ends of this plastic and pull out about 1/4 inch, then in the MIDDLE of this, is a tab put your finger nail in and swing middle plastic 'gate' out sideways. This will now expose the small regular fuse. I replaced it, and everything works fine. Do not pull the black plastic fuse holder out entirely!
Last edited by toyota; Jul 30, 2021 at 07:18 PM. Reason: Solution found
Might have disconnected the battery to replace the alternator, threw the battery on a stand alone charger, then not properly reset the computer when hooking everything back up? Not sure if it will solve the problem, but clearing the short term memory and putting it into rapid learning mode with the factory default settings might help.
You have described the IOD fuse. IOD stands for "Ignition Off Draw". The items you listed (plus the power seat) are things that draw or can draw current without the key being present. When the car is sitting on the dealer's lot waiting to be sold, the dealer will pull that fuse out as you describe to prevent those items from drawing current and running down the battery. When the dealer wants to show the car, he pushes in the fuse and everything works again. (The radio is included because of the clock.) If you are going to store your car for an extended period, popping the IOD fuse is a good way to disconnect the battery easily. Not quite as good as disconnecting a main battery cable but much quicker and easier.
Many thanks for your reply. It was one of your old write ups that came to my rescue yesterday. The only problem i had was opening the plastic black fuse holder to remove the fuse. You would think, it would be in the car hand book, but no. That and the fact the inside fuse itself is not visible at a glance.
all is well now.
Thank you for your great advice. Always learning a lot from your tips.
all is well now.
Thank you for your great advice. Always learning a lot from your tips.
Hi, i have a 2006 Sebring, 2.7L, with 180,000 km. Runs fine, but wondering if worth keeping and spending money on it. What is the highest mileage you have seen on these cars?
thanks
thanks
180,000km? It's just getting broken in... she will pretty easily keep running for at least another 180,000km if you take care of her.
180,000km ain't nothing, your piston rings have barely loosened up at this point... probably still have factory applied crosshatch on the cylinder walls... I bet there are bearings that you could barely tell different from new still in it...
180,000km ain't nothing, your piston rings have barely loosened up at this point... probably still have factory applied crosshatch on the cylinder walls... I bet there are bearings that you could barely tell different from new still in it...
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