OK, I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring and recently it has been leaking coolent exceedingly fast. The way I've noticed this was not only the "leakage" that appeared from under the car when I moved from a particular place, but the heat would blow "cold air" rather than heat. When I first got the car it only blew on 1, 2 or 3.......now it only blows on 4, which never worked when I first purchased it. That could explain the constant need to add antifreeze, but now, even more recently, it has been overheating. I've had to pull over 4 times on the way to work and allow it time to cool off and add more antifreeze/water just to go a few more miles. The needle jumped from the middle to the "hot zone" very rapidly and there was a LOT of steam that appeared to be coming from both the top and bottom, was hard to put my finger on the exact location. A friend thought it may be the hoses, but we removed them and it does not appear to have any rips, tears or holes that would cause the leak. Are there any other suggestions as to what the best possible, and CHEAPEST first, resolution would be. Something we could potentially fix ourselves before resulting to an expensive mechanic??? My first thoughts are either thermostat, water pump, radiator??? Please help!!!!

 

have the system pressure tested see where the leak is coming from.

 

After you have fixed the leak, replace the resistor block for the blower. That will get all the fan speeds working again. Search the forum here for many discussions on that subject.

 

Thank you so much for the suggestion, we will do that once we get the car back home. But today trying to get the vehicle home, it completely died without warning and wouldn't restart after allowing it to sit and cool off. Would this still be the suggetion, testing the system pressure? And if so, how do I test this??

 

Thank you for the response, I will def put that on the "to do" list.

 

I think it's time for some professional help. At this point, there could be any number of things wrong with that engine. There's little point in speculating from here what its problems might be. Judging from your posts you probably do not have the mechanical skills yourself to begin to be able to repair this thing at this point.
Get somebody who knows what he is doing to go over it carefully and find out what is wrong. Then you are going to have to decide whether you want to put the necessary repairs into it or give up on it and find something else that fits your needs better.

 

Yeah, I've been told several different things now. It could be the water pump, it could be the timing belt, it could be a sensor.........it could be anything I guess. And no, I am def NOT mechanically inclined whatsoever. My husband has a little knowledge and wanted to try working on it himself, but with so many "could be" options thrown at us in the last 2 days, I don't know if it's worth fixing at this point. Thank you so much for your assistance, I appreciate it.

 

You might want to spend a few dollars on a Haynes manual for the car. Then read through the relevant sections and see if you can arrive at (at least) a general idea of where to start. There's a possibility that the repairs might be within your husband's abilities but at the very least, he will be better able to discuss the whole thing more intelligently with a mechanic. You will then be better abe to decide what path makes the most sense for you. Possibly there will be one or two items that the pro will deal with and the other smaller items you guys can handle yourselves. Knowledge is power. If it's also relatively cheap, then go get it.

 

Awesome, I will def relay that to my husband. He was planning on stopping by AutoZone and renting one of those things they hook up to get a code. Hopefully, that would point us in a more accurate direction. We were thinking for sure the water pump went out, but now it won't start so something else has probably happened because of it. I'm praying it's not the timing belt and maybe just a sensor or something. But like I said, I'm not very mechanically inclined. He does fairly well with most things, but you're right, the bigger stuff would def be left to the 'big boys'! That's why they get paid the $$ they do! Anyway, thanks so much for all your help, it's useful and appreciated.

 

Thermostat.... It's there to bring the motor to operational temperature. They do wear out, and sometime stick open, (the temp takes a long time to come up), but most often get stuck closed, (over heats). I have to concur with dcotter0579, get a manual.
The resistor block will continue to blow/burn/open the diode, until you change the blower motor. The blower motor is dirty, or the brushes are worn, and drawing to much amperage.