Well I was going to the store this evening and about two blocks from my house my car died. Well it has never done this sense I have owned it, I tried to restart it and it ran for just a second and died again and after that I turned it over and it sounded like only half of the motor was turning. So I am not sure if it is the belt but that is my thought at this point until I can actually go into the motor and find out what is up.

So the car is a 2005 Sebring Sedan with the 2.4l DOHC motor and I am wondering if it is an interference motor and if so are there other motors or cars out there that I could get parts off of. And if it is not an interference motor what is really involved with replacing this belt. This is kind of frustrating being I have only had the car for like 8k miles and still have more than 2 years of payments on this thing. I need one of these smilies of me beating my head on a wall...

 

the front cover can be removed or bent back and some one turn over the engine while u watch to see if the belt is moving while the engine is starting.

hen get a service manual and read of the procedure for replacing a timing belt.

 

Will a timing belt replace will be enough ? Does this engine bents the valve caps ? also the piston might be damaged by valve...

 

Well Yea that is what I would love to know is is this motor an interference motor or not. I get mixed information from the different places that I look, I did take a look and the tbelt is moving if you hit the key but that does not mean that the belt didnt shear off a number of teeth, this happened when I came to a stoplight and the motor was just at idle not like I was running down the freeway at 70 when it happened. But yea if anyone knows if this is an interference style would be appreciated cuz one place says no and the next says yes...

 

This from the shop manual:
"The engine is free wheeling; meaning it has provisions for piston to valve clearance. However, valve-to-valve interference can occur, if camshafts are rotated independently."

You probably wouldn't get valve-to-valve interference if you lost a tooth or two on the belt. Probably the best option is to replace the belt and get the timing right, then run a compression check to determine if the valves are good.

 

dcotter0579 could you take a look if mine is also free wheeling ? Sebring Coupe LX made in 2001 with 3l V6 Mitsubishi 6G72. Just to be sure Though belt replacing is planned and will be done as all the parts are purchased... By the way - not depending if the engine is free wheeling or not I always recommend after belt change or if some internal damage may occurred to rotate the engine by hang. Just take the bigger ratchet with appropriate head (19, 22 or so) and rotate the crankshaft. It should have a bolt on the end:

That way you'll be sure nothing will stuck and make more damage. Had similar issue this summer with my GF's brother - he purchased a Volvo V40, and asked what should he do with repairs, Ok, I made a list - filters, oil, etc. And I suggested to replace the timing belt as it was cracked. And guess what... He left the car in service shop that claims to be Volvo service center Ok, it might have the status, but its a simple village service shop with (how do you call bad mechanics in English ? Those who has their hands growing out of their *** - insert that word here ) mechanics. What they did... When he took the car back they said that engine head was removed and polished. As he told me about that I thought - dude, WTF ? And the first thought - missed belt by several toots, bent valves and later tried to repair what they did. Those stupids put some bent valves back (OMFG) so one cylinder has no compression at all. All they said was - it was like this from the start, we tried to repair it but it did not helped so take it as it is and go away. We had some talking but you know, in our banana republic its hard to find a truth and prove something. That would cost more that that car, so... Later I gave that car to my friend who has a service station and his mechanics put other head, finished with the timing belt and repaired perfectly. Damn, the main reason that I have to repair the car by myself is that it is so hard to find good service station that would work honestly.

 

I don't have a service manual for the coupe, which has the Mitsubishi engine. The coupe has a completely different service manual. The Mitsibishi engine was not used in the sedan/convertible.

 

Gee... wouldn't it be nice if the engine was THAT easy to work on while in the car - not to mention THAT clean.

 

yeah, I would put that engine in my living room but thats just a small example...

 

So Yea I was able to get the timing belt cover off of the car today and low and behold there are probably half of a dozen teeth missing off of the belt. Well now I need to figure out how this is to be changed, This silly thing is sooooo close to the strut tower that It almost seems like the motor will need pulled to fix it. There has to be a way but I guess I will go back to Google to see what I can find.

Another question, I seen that there is a special Chrysler harmonic balancer puller, is this true that I would need to source this tool or would a standard harmonic balancer puller do the job...