Hi,

My 2003 sebring 2.7 had a cranking failure. I replaced the starter fuse (fuse 8 in fuse box) and solved the failure.

But, now I'm looking for possible causes burning this fuse. Any ideas?

What about replacing starter motor, starter relay, others?


Thanks in advance for your help,


Denis V.

 

Sometimes fuses just go bad. If the problem persists, check the starter relay, fuel pump relay, ignition switch and connecting wiring. It's very unlikely that the starter itself is the cause of the problem. It gets its current through the relay, not through that fuse.

 

The starter is drawing to many amps get ready to replace it and no a fuse will not just go bad =)

 

I would expect that if the starter is drawing too many amps, it would more likely fry the relay than blow the fuse. The current for the starter passes through the contacts of the relay. Only the current to activate the relay passes through that fuse.

The current for the fuel pump relay passes through that fuse.

That current also passes through the ignition switch.

Never had a 10-year-old fuse just blow?

 

Fuse 8 in question is the one being blown. The relays can handle about 50 amps in general. so the fuse 20 amp is the weak link it blows u replace it its good to go until the starter is under strain again and it goes once more.
Replace the starter and the real issue will go away.
And no Have not seen a fuse blow for no reason.

 

Kevin, seriously, the whole purpose of a relay is to allow a large current to pass from the battery to the starter by sending a small current through the coil of the relay. There's no way that the 50+ amps going to the starter are going to pass through that 20 amp fuse, ever.
No matter how much current the starter draws, it won't affect the amount of current passing through the coil of the relay.

You must buy better fuses than I do. I always carry a few spares.

 

I never said 50 amps is going through the relay I said the relays can handle up to 50 amps and look at the wire diagram The 20 amp fuse is for the control side the energize the armature in the starter not the motor itself which has a fuse link right from the battery. And the ign switch does not have a fuse for the starting part is supplies power to the controls side of the relay and the ground is done from the PCM.

 

There's a whole lot more than the starter relay on that fuse. There's the fuel pump relay and almost everything that goes through the ignition switch. Check pages 8W-10-11 and 8W-10-21 of the shop manual. The way I read it, it's a very busy circuit.

 

Im aware of that as well I have replaced the starter for this one fuse blowing about 20 or more times in my 17 year career.

 

Well,

This did:


I googled the famous fuse 8: a lot of info about this issue in the web, then:



Replaced the 20 A fuse.

I exchanged starter relay x wiper high/low relay.

Exchanged fuel pump relay x wiper on/off relay in the fuse box (PDC).

If the starter relay was bad, now the wiper will fails.


Bought a new starter solenoid (the "pig" we say). This was a "ZM" brand, made in Brazil, for Mitsubishi Eclipse, Galant & others.


Replaced the starter solenoid only (a big job, it requires to removal the front motor mount + O2 sensor). (The starter motor remains the same) Tested the starting process with voltmeter: it drop from 12.5v to 11.7 only. I think it's O.K.


Introduced the solenoid wire into a piece of silicone hose in order to protect it from contacts with hot parts.

Sanded & cleaned the solenoid wire's connector and tightened a bit with pliers in order to get a solid and firm contact between solenoid and wire.



It's all for now.


Denis V.