Transmission pan torque specs
 

I own a 2004 Chrysler Sebring LX 2.7L Engine. Does anyone know the torque specs for the transmission pan bolts? I have a gasket leak and I am planning on changing the gasket. Any help would be great.

165 in-lbs.

Another common source of a transmission leak is the solenoid pack. Search the forum here for discussions.

Thank you for the information and the tip.

Just an addition. Make sure you tighten the bolts (after "snug" tightening all around) from side to side. In other words, 12 oclock, 6 oclock, 9 oclock, 3 oclock...etc...like lug nuts..

Thanks for the extra information. One quick question. Should I use an adhesive for transmission gasket?

You should use a silicon based gasket adhesive. Just to hold it in place if nothing else! Good luck.

Thanks for the help.

If you mean the rubber gasket which usually comes with a new filter - you should NOT use any adhesive. Use it completely dry. Put a few of the bolts through to keep the gasket in position while you hold it up, the rubber will hold them. Also, you can use less torque, I used 125 in-lb, I would not go more than 140 in-lb - more might make the gasket squeeze out.

The 165 in-lb spec is for the factory method of not even using any gasket, but a special Chrysler adhesive. People have been generally unsuccessful using regular RTV since the slow dripping of fluid makes it impossible to keep the edges dry for RTV to cure. Apparently the Chrysler adhesive will seal even with the dripping, but I've never tried it.

I used Permatex Ultra Copper

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

I bought the filter kit with a gasket and used this stuff on both sides of the gasket. Go easy with it, and let it dry for a day before you add back the trans fluid and start the car. You don't want a little blob circulating in the trans. I had no leaks after this.

Everything worked out in the end. Had no problem with the gasket and adhesive. Only when I was tightening the trany bolts did I run into a problem. When I was nearing the proper torque over half my bolts stripped inside the trany. The screws were not gripping inside the holes. I had to bore the holes and replace the old bolts with bigger bolts and used washers to get the proper seal.

Sorry to hear that. I thought the torque recommended was to high. Back in the old days (70's) we always used a "speeder" socket tool to tighten. In my experience, tightening transmission and oil pans was a visual "touchy feely" thing. As you go around the horn tightening the bolts, watching the gasket "spread" was the way to go. I would imagine if the bolts stripped, the gasket was surely flattened out as well.

It was 165 INCH-POUNDS, not foot pounds. That's about 13 foot pounds. You can get that with one hand on a small wrench. It shouldn't have stripped out anything.

When I removed the transmission pan screws and cleaned them they looked pritty beat up. As for the torque I used, 165 INCH-POUND (1.9 M. KGS).