I have a 2001 Sebring LXI sedan with the 2.7L.

Several months ago the heater went out and the blower would only on the 4th setting. So we took the car to a mechanic that works at a local dealership and he replaced theblower motor resistor. He also found out thatwe had a bad thermo so he was going to replace that as well, but he didn't have the tools at hishome tocomplete the work once he found out everything involved.

After seeking recommendations, we took the car to Pep Boys to have them replace the thermostat. After having the car a week, we finally got it back and they had replaced the thermostat and all seemed well.We drove it home (5 minute drive on freeway) and called it a day.

The next morning I took the car to work and when I arrivedat work (20 minute drive on the freeway) the car was shootingsteam out from under the hood. I quickly popped the hood to see the radiator cap bouncing upand down andliquid/steam shooting out everywhere. I turned the car off and went inside and during my lunch hour I went back out to the carand tighened down the radiator cap and took off for lunch.

The car did not want to heat up at all, in fact it took a good 20/30 minutes for the car's temp needle to even move. Additionally, the heater didn't blow anything but cold air unless I hit above 3k RPMs. I'm assuming it lost coolant from the radiator cap not being tightened. Anyhow, we call up Pep Boys and they tell us just to bring it back in and they'll take care of it.

Fast forward to today and I just got a call with them telling me the water housing unit is broken (what in the hell is this) and that it will cost $200-250 to replace. First off, am I right to assume this could have been damaged as a result of the radiator cap not being tighened down and us driving it? Second, what is the part? Third, what would you recommend us doing?

 

the part it located on top of the engine and goes under the intake manafold. What is does it chanels coolant from the upper part of the engine to the water supply and yes it will leak all the time i replace many. It cost so much because u have to remove the upper intake manafold and run the new one back there. if they do it right and blead out all the air u should not have any other issues with heat of course there is one other deal u have a heater core leak but u can smell that when u are using the heat smells sweet.
I replaced mine a year ago the dash has to come out. Let me know if u need some help
Kevin ATL

 

Called and got clarification -- it's the water outlet housing. Is that what you're talking about? Can there be any way this was damaged as a result of the radiator cap not being tightened and all of the coolant leaking out everywhere?

 

well u would get coolant all over with either one the rad cap loose and coolant leaking from the water outlet housing.

 

This is obviously a very old thread, but the information is still highly useful to owners/maintainers of these cars. The 2.7's came with a top-of-engine multi-hose coolant outlet that was ridiculously made of plastic and basically a time bomb for failure. The good news is that it can be swapped for an all-metal version that's carried by parts houses. More good news is that most casual home mechanics can swap it themselves as it's accessible right on top of the engine, held down by 4 bolts. One of the bolts is far enough under the overhanging intake manifold that clearance must be made, but it's not necessary to entirely remove the intake- removing its hold-down bolts and pulling up the passenger-side end will yield just enough clearance to get at that 4th coolant-outlet bolt. I ran into a subsequent problem in that the new metal water outlet came with a new coolant temp sensor installed, but it was either bad or incorrect for application and caused the gauge to read way too hot and hard cold starting, causing me some consternation until I swapped the old sensor back in and all was then well.

A competent shop should be able to do swap the outlet quickly and without great expense, but shops are having trouble getting people these days and charges are definitely on the rise. Likewise for the thermostat, which is no big job, though the LF wheel and fenderwell guarding have to be removed to get at and loosen the serpentine belt to remove the alternator first. Dipstick holder needs to come out also, but super simple. No way should need to be in shop for a week. Half day at most.