My wife's car is a 2001 Sebring LX convert with 2.7. We just bought my son a 2002 LXI convert with 2.7 engine. The mechanic that sold us the 2002 LXI is replacing the transmission with a 40K used one because the one in the car has a very bad front seal and he says he's not sure how many times it has been run low on fluid and would feel better changing it out at his cost. He plans to drop the engine and trans out of the car to change the trans. While there he says he will change the water pump, timing chain, tensioners, etc. for $500. labor plus parts. I am leerie because they have not done a 2.7 before. They just did a fairly new Cadillac with success though. I think I want to do the water pump, etc. myself due to the sensitivity of this engine to mistakes. At least if I make a mistake I know what I did. The LXI has 72,000 miles on it. My wife's car has 124,000 miles and still runs great.
I have a couple of questions. I have not done a 2.7 w/p change out, but believe with the factory manual I can do a good job. Additionally, I will buy oem parts. Should I let this mechanic do the work and buy oem parts? Also, I need my wife's car done and I will do that. My second question is: Is it better to drop the engine/trans assy. out of the car for the w/p, etc. change out or better to do in the car?

Thank you, George

 

It's easier, obviously, to do the water pump, etc., out of the car, and it's probably universally true that if it's easier to do, it's more likely to be done right. You should be aware that they changed the timing chain design so that if you are going to do that front-of-engine work, you need to get an entire kit, not just the water pump.

I don't suppose they would let you do the front of the engine work at their shop while they played with the tranny. Nah, that would never happen.

You might want to invest in a shop manual and read through the relevant parts to see if you think you can handle it. If you decide to let the shop do the work, make the book available to them for, at the very least, proper timing procedures and torque values.

The water pump can be done in the car and if that's all you're doing, it's better to do it in the car. Dropping the engine and trans is a big job in itself which means special tools and opportunities to make mistakes.

 

I plan to replace the water pump, timing chain, tensioners, install the aftermarket block at the very least. Now I am concerned about this mechanic even dropping the engine and trans out. I definitely will get the factory shop manual. Is it easier or possible to changeout the transmission with the engine in the car?

Last question: I see on this list, that Chrysler now sells a kit that is competitive, more or less, with the aftermarket parts. Where do I order this kit? Seems the dealer would be very high and the Mopar website does not show all the parts. Thank you again for your help and your time. George

 

Factory shop manuals might be a bit hard to come by unless you are willing to pay top dollar or get lucky and find a set on eBay. The complete manual includes several volumes although the main volume will cover everything you want for what you are doing. The factory shop manual is written for dealership mechanics and assumes that you have the special tools that a dealership would have including a hoist, etc.
Something like a Haynes manual is written for a do-it-yourselfer and might actually be better for your purposes. It's also widely available and much cheaper. Some of the procedures and drawings in the Haynes manual are lifted right out of the factory manual.
Both manuals will require you to consult different chapters other than the one covering the specific item you are looking for in order to complete the entire job. The Haynes manual is a little better in one respect. For most of the stuff covered, they have actually done the job and then proceed to write it up. I doubt very much that any of the people writing the factory manual have actually ever done the procedures described. Maybe they talk to somebody who has done it but maybe not. Once you have actually done some of the things described in the book you conclude that you'd write it up much differently.

As far as pulling the transmission with engine still in the car I don't know, I've never done it. All the manuals talk about dropping the whole shebang out the bottom. If you know of a local transmission shop, they probably have worked out all the shortcuts but since they make their living doing that they might not be willing to tell you their secrets. No harm in asking, as they say.

I have had good luck ordering parts from chryslerparts.net and Rock Auto. chryslerparts.net is actually a dealership in Texas, I think, but they routinely beat my local dealers prices.