300 c violent shaking .....PLEASE HELP
#1
06-17-2019, 04:54 PM
300 c violent shaking .....PLEASE HELP
Hi,
I am hoping someone can help. I have a 2007 Chrysler 300C hemi , recently while braking at higher speeds, 50mph - 80++mph, the whole front end of my car shakes violently and the steering wheel as well. It is so bad that you have to slow down and in some cases pull over. My mechanic and I are at our wits end because at this point we have replaced the upper and lower control arms, tie rods , struts , sway bar links , and rack n pinion, the only thing left to do is replace the ball joints which he is doing now. At this point we have dumped over $3000. in parts and labor into the car repairs. Its not the tires. I know what out of balance tires feel like, this is not an annoying vibration, this is a VIOLENT death wobble that vibrates the front end and the steering wheel to an extent that I nor my mechanic have ever felt or seen and you have to slow down and pull over. If the ball joints don't fix this I am going to have to sell the car. Just so you know my parents have owned this car for years and they have taken immaculate care of this car and only the chrysler dealership mechanics and my mechanic have worked on it and the inside and out look almost like a new car. Has anyone experienced this??? Please help. My name is Aaron. Thank you for your help.
I am hoping someone can help. I have a 2007 Chrysler 300C hemi , recently while braking at higher speeds, 50mph - 80++mph, the whole front end of my car shakes violently and the steering wheel as well. It is so bad that you have to slow down and in some cases pull over. My mechanic and I are at our wits end because at this point we have replaced the upper and lower control arms, tie rods , struts , sway bar links , and rack n pinion, the only thing left to do is replace the ball joints which he is doing now. At this point we have dumped over $3000. in parts and labor into the car repairs. Its not the tires. I know what out of balance tires feel like, this is not an annoying vibration, this is a VIOLENT death wobble that vibrates the front end and the steering wheel to an extent that I nor my mechanic have ever felt or seen and you have to slow down and pull over. If the ball joints don't fix this I am going to have to sell the car. Just so you know my parents have owned this car for years and they have taken immaculate care of this car and only the chrysler dealership mechanics and my mechanic have worked on it and the inside and out look almost like a new car. Has anyone experienced this??? Please help. My name is Aaron. Thank you for your help.
#2
06-18-2019, 07:49 AM
To me this sounds like a classic brake issue such as bad rotors, loose calipers, etc.
The other thing I question is your mechanic. A guy who keeps blindly replacing parts at your expense should be replaced himself., There must be a more thoughtful professional mechanic out there for you and your car. BTW How many miles on your car and have you had an alignment after this wholesale parts replacement.
! other thing. Please do keep us informed on the process and final solution to your proplem.
.
The other thing I question is your mechanic. A guy who keeps blindly replacing parts at your expense should be replaced himself., There must be a more thoughtful professional mechanic out there for you and your car. BTW How many miles on your car and have you had an alignment after this wholesale parts replacement.
! other thing. Please do keep us informed on the process and final solution to your proplem.
.
#3
06-18-2019, 11:25 AM
Violent shaking
You misunderstood, we have been replacing the front end one step at a time to try and find out what it is. This is not the rotors because it would vibrate at all speeds. Also, this is not a little vibration , the whole front end of the car will vibrate so badly that you have to slow down and or pullover. .
#4
06-18-2019, 02:41 PM
Have a look at the sub frame bushes and motor mounts.
Aaron, I still have an issue with your mechanic. I recon he is 95% of the problem. Sorry. Anyway , do keep us informed as this is a fascinating thread.
PS; How many miles on your car?
Aaron, I still have an issue with your mechanic. I recon he is 95% of the problem. Sorry. Anyway , do keep us informed as this is a fascinating thread.
PS; How many miles on your car?
Last edited by tarhealcracker; 06-19-2019 at 09:42 AM.
#6
04-22-2020, 07:55 PM
I have a similar problem.
Warped rotors do not necessarily vibrate at all speeds, mostly when you brake does it become very noticeable.
One problem that gets overlooked is the fact that when a rotor gets hot from hard braking a very thin film of brake pad get deposited onto the rotor when you come to a complete stop. This makes the rotor become "grabby" when you brake next time you come down from highway speeds. I wish I had saved the link to the article that discussed this. Try braking very lightly when this happens and the violence of the shake will diminish.
I agree with the others about throwing parts at it. One question I have is why are you replacing ball joints when you already replaced upper and lower control arm? When you replace these you typically replace the ball joints at this time. Other wise you have to remove the ball joint from the control arm and then reinstall the used ball joint into the new control arm if that possible.
Warped rotors do not necessarily vibrate at all speeds, mostly when you brake does it become very noticeable.
One problem that gets overlooked is the fact that when a rotor gets hot from hard braking a very thin film of brake pad get deposited onto the rotor when you come to a complete stop. This makes the rotor become "grabby" when you brake next time you come down from highway speeds. I wish I had saved the link to the article that discussed this. Try braking very lightly when this happens and the violence of the shake will diminish.
I agree with the others about throwing parts at it. One question I have is why are you replacing ball joints when you already replaced upper and lower control arm? When you replace these you typically replace the ball joints at this time. Other wise you have to remove the ball joint from the control arm and then reinstall the used ball joint into the new control arm if that possible.
#7
04-23-2020, 07:45 AM
This thread is a perfect example of what frustrates me about these forums Here is this guy who has a serious issue. Nearly a year ago he comes on the forum and asks for help/opinions and in spite of numerous requests re the state of his car and the final fix he ghosts us.
Is it any wonder that many requests for help/info go unanswered ?
Is it any wonder that many requests for help/info go unanswered ?
#8
05-01-2020, 08:54 PM
shaking
I had the same issue as the op, I just picked up this 06 300 had exactly what he was saying I told the originall owner that the rotors needed work he wasnt sure. I took it in had them change out the pads and rotors and wala, problem solved.
#9
10-14-2020, 06:52 AM
I have a similar problem.
Warped rotors do not necessarily vibrate at all speeds, mostly when you brake does it become very noticeable.
One problem that gets overlooked is the fact that when a rotor gets hot from hard braking a very thin film of brake pad get deposited onto the rotor when you come to a complete stop. This makes the rotor become "grabby" when you brake next time you come down from highway speeds. I wish I had saved the link to the article that discussed this. Try braking very lightly when this happens and the violence of the shake will diminish.
I agree with the others about throwing parts at it. One question I have is why are you replacing ball joints when you already replaced upper and lower control arm? When you replace these you typically replace the ball joints at this time. Other wise you have to remove the ball joint from the control arm and then reinstall the used ball joint into the new control arm if that possible.
Warped rotors do not necessarily vibrate at all speeds, mostly when you brake does it become very noticeable.
One problem that gets overlooked is the fact that when a rotor gets hot from hard braking a very thin film of brake pad get deposited onto the rotor when you come to a complete stop. This makes the rotor become "grabby" when you brake next time you come down from highway speeds. I wish I had saved the link to the article that discussed this. Try braking very lightly when this happens and the violence of the shake will diminish.
I agree with the others about throwing parts at it. One question I have is why are you replacing ball joints when you already replaced upper and lower control arm? When you replace these you typically replace the ball joints at this time. Other wise you have to remove the ball joint from the control arm and then reinstall the used ball joint into the new control arm if that possible.
#10
10-14-2020, 11:19 AM
It is extremely important to torque the wheel lugs evenly and to spec. The final setting of the torque needs to be done by hand, no air gun, If the lugs are not torqued to spec, it is a question of when your rotors will warp, not if.
I always check the lugs after work is done on my car where a wheel has come off. Even dealer service depts have over-torqued lugs. Easy to do with an air-gun by simply holding the trigger regardless of the torque setting (one shot good, more better...). I have not had a warped rotor in years since I have been checking the lugs after service work (knock on wood).
I always check the lugs after work is done on my car where a wheel has come off. Even dealer service depts have over-torqued lugs. Easy to do with an air-gun by simply holding the trigger regardless of the torque setting (one shot good, more better...). I have not had a warped rotor in years since I have been checking the lugs after service work (knock on wood).