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AC controls- no illumination, please help

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  #1  
Old 10-16-2008, 09:56 PM
xtremez28's Avatar
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Default AC controls- no illumination, please help

I have a 2006 chrysler 300 touring that I just bought. Well the AC controls work, but the lights dont work. Only the AC light and defrost light will come on. Also while the defrost light comes on, the defrost does not appear to work. Any ideas? Can the lights be replaced or do I have to replace the entire module? Will that fix the defrost? thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 10-21-2008, 07:11 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6
Default RE: AC controls- no illumination, please help

Needs a new control head assembly. The bulbs are not replaceable. Most likely will fix defrost also.
 
  #3  
Old 03-25-2011, 04:11 PM
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[quote=xtremez28;21273]I have a 2006 chrysler 300 touring that I just bought. Well the AC controls work, but the lights dont work. Only the AC light and defrost light will come on. Also while the defrost light comes on, the defrost does not appear to work. Any ideas? Can the lights be replaced or do I have to replace the entire module? Will that fix the defrost? thanks.[/quot
dear i just would like to ask you if you have sort the problem I have same thing in my car the AC controls work, but the lights dont work.
please help
 
  #4  
Old 10-07-2011, 06:38 PM
BobM's Avatar
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The bulbs are replaceable, I replaced all of mine.

Just go to wiki answers or google "How do I replace the heater control bulbs in my chrysler 300?"

It does not take more than an hour if you have reasonable soldering skills and enough patience to not break the bezel when removing it. A magnefying bullseye light helps too.

I have pasted in the instructions I found:

By the looks of the forums, I'm not the first one with this problem.
Well, the ***** and controls are backlit by (3) 14V, T1 ½ mini, wire terminal, lamps.
The lamps are soldered on a PC brd that has the temp and heater/air duct direction control.
With a little research, I found the lamps are made by Toshiba. OEM supplied only, you cant buy 'em... They have a 1000hr life... However, the folks at Bulb Town in FL (bulbtown.com) will sell you a T1 1/4 p/n #8640 or if you want to risk the tighter fit, T1 3/4. 14V, .08A #2162D... The bigger bulb worked for me.
Remove the bad bulbs and replace w/ new ones. Be careful with the dash and the soldering and you'll have lights back on your dash in about 40mins total. Lamps are .70 a pc plus shipping. I bought a couple extras, just in case.
Here's how... You gotta be careful with the dash and the plastic clips, they aren't all that tuff and can snap if your not subtle but gentle.
1. Remove the (30 clim. control *****. They are keyed and can't be removed unless you turn them all the way to the left before you pull.
2. Remove the plastic "tray" from under the ashtray.
3. Remove the ash tray. Then carefully pull the ashtray slide and bezel by a subtle wiggle and pull from the top. I lifted and pulled with one hand inside the ashtray. Don't pull to far cause the seat heater sw are connected to the bezel too. You can disconn, and remove the tray and bezel but you don't have to.
4. At the top of the cavity left by the ashtray bezel us a screwdriver the loosen the clips securing the base of the entire center dash bezel which includes the clim. controls all the way up to the clock.
5. Once free at the base, start working the rest of it free, up to the top. CAREFUL! There are retaining clips on the side, near the radio and at the top ctr.
6. With the entire center bezel free press the retainer tab on the conns, for the clock and Haz flasher.
7. Then remove the connectors for the clim. control... You've gotta squeeze the retainer tab to pull the connector free.
8. The conn. for the fan control has a look as well and it's a real pain. You need to work the red lock free before you can remove the connector. A jewelers screwdriver or a flattened coat hanger wire will work to free the key. Then just remove the fan control conn and take the center console bezel to your bench.
9. Remove the rear cover of the clim control and PC card. There are about ½ doz plastic locking tabs around the cover that you can carefully pry up with a little pressure and work your way around the cover, until it's all free.
10. With the cover off, you're looking at the back of the PC card.
11. Lift the card from the bezel and clear plastic asm. (That's what transmitted the lite to the ***** and dash before the lamps burned out.
12. Flip the card over; there's your bulbs.
13. With a pencil tip soldering gun, touch the visible end of the bulb terminal wire on each and remove it from the card. Remove the old bulb from the holder ans replace with new lamp. Bend up and trim the wires.
14. A slight amount of flux on the wires and solder on the card...
15. Take the card to the car and plug the right conn. on the card. Turn on the lights to check. Voila!
16. Reasm. components in reverse order... everything will snap together relatively ez. I did it (2) or (3) times to check voltages and bulb sizes before I finished the final asm. The only real pain was that lock and key on the fan sw until I figured it out.

But as the previous poster said, if the defroster isn't working you may need to get a replacement unit.

Good luck.

Bob
 
  #5  
Old 12-11-2014, 11:33 AM
James Smith's Avatar
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Posts: 1
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the lights for the heater/AC control panel do not work, can I replace just the bulbs or are they part of the cluster? this is for my 2006 chrysler 300
 
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