Im cool, talk is cheap. The dealer will not look any more. As I said Chrysler has no info on this problem.So dealer will not just start pulling car a part they will not get paid from chrysler and Im not paying them!!! You PDI cars or are you a tech? Chrysler has set guidlines for warranty work. I think they should do some thing but the general manger for the dealer said they need a starting point from chrysler to get paid for warranty work. I think this is bull. I have talked to a car raido shop the system should not do what its is doing.I have a call in to Chrysler. Also talking to Kicker they said if I do not get help to call them back and they will look at it.Un like you puting the tech in the trunk will not do anything. Going to a new dealer to see if they can help. Some shops have no customer service

To many computers in cars to day and to many venders with there hands in the pot.

 

TECH.....The PDI's are just gravy (Or at least they used to be)Find another dealer.....I as well as the other chrysler techs here on the forum will tell you that we' have all been severely burned at one time or another, because of a problem car that couldnt be figured out. Once I take the ticket, I am married to it until the end, and Not being able to reach out to MFR support is no excuse. We also have salesman who "CRINGE" when certain customers come into service....

There is alot to be said for the guy you gave your money to......

As I said..its an SRT...I would guess 3 or 4 grand on either side of 50K....And if you arent happy.....Someone , somewhere, somehow, has the responsibility of making sure you are.

Maybe its just my area, with My particular guy, But the District manager comes into the shop, and Doesnt say a WORD to the SVC manager...He talks to the TECHS....

Why isnt this fixed? --What did you do to fix that SRT Charger with the poor radio reception, ...How would you , Mr Technician, start with this situation. In all honesty, it isnt what you may think...We absolutely LOVE him.... Because he has Been a TECH...he has been in our shoes... And its a reality check, ...We discuss what happens in our shop, he discusses what happens in his other shops...and we all come away with an understanding of "The Other Way To Do It".

I also Know That if he makes contact with a dissatisfied customer, No matter how trivial the problem is...IT HAD BETTER BE RECTIFIED....

Now on a lighter note....sometimes I can come off a bit arrogant, and it tends to overshadow STERN-NESS. You spent a ton of money, and I know for a fact, if your car were in my service bay, I would be chained to it until I could give you an answer. As A tech, Im not permitted the luxury of "I dunno" ....and It upsets me that somehow, these guys can get away with it, and move on to their CASH TICKET 3.5 hour brake pad replacement......

Now Just for kicks....The amp and antenna Booster share a common power source. If there were a capacitor inside the amp that were to "LEAK Current"......Supply voltage would be pulled low...and cause the "POP" that you hear when powering down, and also the effective voltage available for the antenna booster. If unplugging the amp restores recption...That is where I would Aim First.....Feel free to mention this to THE CHRYSLER REP WHEN YOU TALK TO HIM!!!!!!......Thats what the customer service line was designed for.....

 

I own a 2010 300S and have a problem like yours, I think mines sounds like a heartbeat (2 beats then pause 2 beats), it is louder in the trunk when everything is recently shut off, took it to dealer, duplicated the sound, they found the same problems in other cars so no fix, you are not alone and I like the sound of district mgmt sounds like a plan, I did upgrade to a 368 factory amp no change, This is my first post since joining hope it helps

 

They can always try and suppliment the ground straps with better material or even ADD additional ones. If you live in a corrosion prone area, grounds can get nasty in a very short time.

Quote from the service info for chits and giggles>>>>

*****Radio noise suppression devices are installed on this vehicle. Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) and ElectroMagnetic Interference (EMI) can be produced by any on-board or external source of electromagnetic energy. These electromagnetic energy sources can radiate electromagnetic signals through the air, or conduct them through the vehicle electrical system.

When the audio system converts RFI or EMI to an audible acoustic wave form, it is referred to as radio noise. This undesirable radio noise is generally manifested in the form of “buzzing,” “hissing,” “popping,” “clicking,” “crackling,” and/or “whirring” sounds. In most cases, RFI and EMI radio noise can be suppressed using a combination of vehicle and component grounding, filtering and shielding techniques. This vehicle is equipped with radio noise suppression devices that were designed to minimize exposure to typical sources of RFI and EMI; thereby, minimizing radio noise complaints.

Radio noise suppression is accomplished primarily through circuitry or devices that are integral to the radios, audio power amplifiers and other on-board electrical components such as generators, wiper motors, blower motors, and fuel pumps that have been found to be potential sources of RFI or EMI. External radio noise suppression devices that are used on this vehicle to control RFI or EMI, and can be serviced, include the following:

• Engine-to-frame ground strap - This length of braided ground strap has an eyelet terminal connector crimped to each end. One end is secured to the engine cylinder heads. The other is secured to the frame.
• Resistor-type spark plugs - This type of spark plug has an internal resistor connected in series between the spark plug terminal and the center electrode to help reduce the production of electromagnetic radiation that can result in radio noise.
• Exhaust-to-frame ground strap - This length of braided ground strap has an eyelet terminal connector crimped to each end. One end is secured to the exhaust pipe. The other is secured to the frame.