Replaced all 4 o2 sensors still throws codes saying their bad
 

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7l Started when my transmission cooler line popped off got fluid everywhere and ruined a map sensor. I replaced map sensor car has ran like junk ever since OBD two said 1x o2 sensor was bad. I went ahead and I replaced all four of them and it now says that they’re are bad. Bank 1 sen 1 bank 1 sen 2 bank 2 sen 1 bank 2 Sen 2
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bad on top of live data says Fuel system 1 and 2 Open Loop.
I have changed map sensor checked the throttle positioning sensor replaced the cam positioning sensor tried resetting codes. I’ve checked connections of wires and plugs. Make sure no shorts. I’m just chasing a ghost right now. Any ideas? Car idles rough like it’s missing poor acceleration, terrible gas mileage running rich if driven more than five minutes, you won’t be able to go. It starts spitting and sputtering until you pull over and it dies.
i pull the plugs on one side so far they look fine going to test the coils next with a multimeter, then onto fuel injectors, which I checked them before I put them on a few months back and they all sprayed consistently and even
I’m so tired of throwing parts and time at this and never get an answer. Just waste more money on parts don’t need.
These last O2 sensors I got were off of Amazon. Could that be the problem that I need OEM O2 sensors? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If those codes were prior to Oxygen sensor swap:

All four voltage high indicates open or poor GROUND. If I recall all do share a common ground. Looks good doesn’t cut it, grounds need to be disconnected and cleaned to be good.

If After first thing to do is use the correct sensors :

Note ONLY OEM NGK/NTK OXYGEN SENSORS WORK IN CHRYSLER PRODUCTS.

Definitely, only OEM/NTK (Denso is also known to work) O2 sensors. No Bosch, auto parts store branded, amazon garbage.

Suggest 'rockauto.com'. Good prices and typical 2-4 day shipping.

yeah im betting bosch they are typically a wrong PWM setup that chrysler PCM does not use and will throw heater codes or voltage codes for the O2 side

I kinda figured it was the quality of the o2 sensors. In the meantime I decided to check my plugs and test coils they were fine, I cleaned the spark plugs and put everything back and ran codes again and now two of the o2 sensor codes vanished now it says bank 1 sensor 1 bank 2 sensor 1 but now I have a new code P0132
I’ve had this happen before codes pop up then disappear when I haven’t done anything that should effect it. Any ideas ???

you have already been given the source and the issue to what you are experiencing. Spark plugs and coils have nothing to do with an O2 sensor circuit code.

Still having issues
 

so I bought oe o2 sensors ngk and still getting same issues saying o2 sensors bad and on live data shows fuel system is still open loop fault
only thing I can think of is fuel pump regulator is bad not giving enough fuel pressure.
ecm is not that old, checked all plugs and connectors all look good, no melted wire harness, o2 sensors are all brand new, plugs looked good, fuel injectors good all atomizing good. Has brand new map sensor, new cam sensor, new water temp sensor
sny ideas?

Codes are a GUIDE to PROPERLY TROUBLESHOOT and DIAGNOSE a problem. You obviously have plenty of matches to light the PARTS CANNON.
I can think of a better use for matches in your case

oh trust me! If I didn’t have so much time and money sunk into this car I would light the sob on fire and roll it down a hill!
last thing I can think of to check is fuel pressure. Cleaned out fuel pump yesterday going to check the fuel pressure today. Hopefully it’s fuel pump going bad not pumping right pressure. If not then I am freakin lost! I’ve replaced dang near everything I can think of

Fuel pump pressure and volume testing would confirm proper troubleshooting and pass or fail the component. …….
I’m guessing