Bought it in mid april with like 248k miles on it . . . Hemi version. Had regular repairs that you kind of expect when buying a used car (4 new brake pads, had to replace tires, this stupid rust shiz you have to deal with up here in Ohio). One thing I did not realize you had to deal with in my new state was the “E-Check” for emissions . . . So, thus begins my journey.

Engine light comes on a few days after I drive it off the lot (of course it does) . . . first time I fill up ($88 with Premium) it starts shutting off on me as I pull away from the gas station. I worry it was the LUCAS I added, but read the owner's Manual and see that it does not need 93, but was made to run 89 and 87 with 89 being recommended by the manufacturer. Fine, so next time I put 89 and once again top it off (plus another fuel injector) and it does it again . . . But this time gas mileage improves from like 12.5 to 13.5, so I figure I'm doing something right. In the meantime Auto zone tells me I have two EVAP issues . . .I get codes, go to e-check, and it's not the gas cap. I read on these boards that it's provably a purge valve and buy one, go and get engine smoked, and it's not in the front, so figure it's the ESIM (Fuel Leak Detection Switch). Get that replaced, and engine light turned off, and low and behold, next time I fill up, it does NOT start shutting off . . . problem solved, right? Nope

Engine light comes back on. Temp Tag getting close to expiring so now I'm in a rush to get this fixed. Figure it's a vacuum hose in the back somewhere and go to get it checked. The major evap leak code is now gone, but minor one still there. Get back of car smoked, not a hose, told it's the fuel filler tank that is the issue, but I've never had the splash I've seen other people claim they have suffered through on here, and he says something about a vapor hose that goes on it? Not really sure I comprehended since when all is said and done, I'm just not a car guy as much as I'd like to think I am. He turns off engine light for me, I got get an e-check, pass it, take paper work in, and today got my tags, but in the meantime the check engine light has come back on. Car seems louder than it has ever been an sometimes it drives fine, but other times it really seems to lack power, like going uphill on offramps from the expressway. I expect that from a slant 4, but not a V8. I'd go and tell you guys which code is showing up, but you all know which one I mean. One is like PO55 and the other is PO56. I am probably off on saying that and get exact one if needed, but it's the minor leak code, not the major leak one. I'd LOVE any advice as to what is going on and a cost effective way of my planning my next step. And thanks to the Coyote guy for responding to my other comment.

By the way . . . I flipping love the car haha

 

Okay, first I'm going to say having the exact current codes would help greatly. I would recommend running by Autozone again and have them pull the current codes (write them down) and get back with us.

That being said, based off of the numbers you do mention, I can only assume you were getting P0455 and P0456. The big question here is are you still getting these same codes after changing the ESIM. Codes P0455-P0457 are typically due to the ESIM which you've already replaced. However, these codes typically show a "Check Fuel Cap" message on the dash. Not just the check engine light. If you are still getting these codes after changing the ESIM, I would recommend inspecting the vacuum lines associated with the ESIM and charcoal canister. Hopefully the canister itself doesn't need replaced as that is expensive.

As for your mechanic stating it's the fuel filler neck. This could be a possibility. If the filler neck has a bad vacuum hose on it, this could cause the issue. I would recommend stopping by a local Dodge/Chrysler dealership and have them check your VIN and see if service bulletin # 14-001-12 has been done. If not, I would ask to have it done. Although this is for the spit back when fueling, it's still the filler neck and you should be able to get this done for free.

Now, as for the shutting down after fueling. I'm going to guess that this happens after you've been running the truck for a while and the temps are up. You may have even gotten in to the throttle hard a few times before stopping to fuel. This is an issue I continue to have (as I have a lead foot that gets triggered even worse from people refusing to get out of the left lane). This stalling may not even trip a code. From my research on this, it is due to the On-board Refueling Vapor Recovery Valve which is part of the fuel tank. Meaning the whole tank needs to be replaced (about $800 for the tank alone). As much as I have found reported on this to NHTSA, I'm surprised Chrysler doesn't have a service bulletin or recall on this one. Basically (from what I understand) the heat while driving creates vapor in the fuel tank and this ORVR valve is supposed to prevent vapor lock within the fuel system. Tie that in with getting fuel which also produces vapor and you get too much for the ORVR to control and the vehicle stalls out. The failure of the ORVR can cause issues with the charcoal canister as well. This is an intermittent issue I have and have not resolved it. What I usually do to help prevent it from happening is fill up my tank after the truck has been sitting overnight. Basically I won't fill it up during the week while driving back and forth to work. On the weekends after it has sat all night, I drive to the gas station (about 5 miles away) while driving less than 55 and fill it up for the next week. I have not had an issue following this method. I also started adding a can of Barryman's B-12 to each fill up. This will help clean out the injectors (possible cause of your low power). It has also given me an extra 1 mpg per tank.

Hope any of this helps as this is all I can think of related to your issues.