I have a 2009 Aspen. It has 55,000 miles on it. I was told the spark plugs need changed every 30,000 miles. That is the TOP row, but how often do the BOTTOM row need changed. It has 16 spark plugs total. They recommend iridium spark plugs be used. They run about $30 a piece! Then the labor is another $150 - $200 to have a shop do it. I purchased platinum spark plugs, but was told that you never want to go lower on spark plug quality, but you can always go higher.

So, first piece of info you may want to have is the cost of the iridium plug. Second piece I would like to have is how often do I change the bottom 8 plugs? Nobody seems to know.

Thanks!

 

Jules, I assume you have the 4.7 engine.

The upper bank plugs are FR8TE2 -- they cost about $3.78 each on Rockauto.com, and are copper plugs. The lower bank plugs are FR8T1332 -- they cost $6.63 each, and are iridium plugs. These are prices for the OEM plugs that come in the vehicle from the factory, which is what your dealer should be using. Even with a nice markup, I don't see how they're getting to $30 per plug...that's ridiculous. If they charge you $10 per plug, they should be making a nice profit.

You replace the top row plugs every 30k. Those are the cheap copper core plugs. The iridiums don't get changed until 102k miles. This is all per your owner's manual. And you can upgrade the coppers to iridiums if you'd like longer change intervals for the upper bank plugs. It really is important to change them every 30k if you use the copper OEM plugs.

Your dealer is trying to charge you $400 for half of a tune up, or close to $700 if they do all of them. I would go elsewhere. If they're willing to hose you this bad on simple maintenance, just imagine what they'll try to charge you if something really goes wrong.

 

Hey everyone! Brand new to the forum. I was looking for some info on changing all 16 plugs in my Aspen 4.7. I changed the front & rear brakes last weekend and it looked like the lower plugs would be easier to change with the front lifted and tires off. The hardest part looks like would be the drivers side since it has the abs valve conveniently placed in the way of the wheel well. Both sides though look like the wheel wells were intentionally cut to allow access to the lower plugs.

I've been trying to find the best plugs to use. I was on another forum and there were quite a few posts about folks having problems with anything but the oem plugs, which are supposedly NGK, which according to the part numbers on NGK's website those plugs are nonexistent, except for maybe the dealer according to some of the other posters. Sorry, I can't remember which forum I was on, found it through a google search.

What plugs are everyone using? I wouldn't mind using a platinum or iridium plug on the top and bottom, but depending on where you look, people or vehicle charts on some auto websites recommend different part numbers for NGK plugs. Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

FYI - my local Chrysler dealership charged me just under $250 out the door for plugs after I did it myself the first time and said it wasn't worth the money. It wasn't harder than on my 3.8 SC'd cougar xr7...that's a PITA to change plugs on.

 

I bought my Aspen in April with about 26,000 miles on it, and recently was upon the 30,000 mark, so time to change plugs.

It's kind of a pain, but aren't they all (been doing my 2002 Jeep and the 2002 Ram 1500 I traded on the Aspen for years, each has its challenges). Some are in tight spots and you have to be a little creative. Somebody (different post) said the dealer told them you have to remove the brake booster to change the plugs on a Hemi - BS! To get the plugs in that "corner" (driver's side/rear) you put your spark plug socket with 3" extension in the holes first, then pop on a "stub" extension, then your ratchet. When the plug is unscrewed, you disconnect the ratchet first, then pop off the stub extension, then lift and twist out the plug carefully. You don't have to take half the friggin' car apart lol. Those little plastic electrical connectors on the coil packs can be a pain to get off - tough to press and hold it while trying to slide it away from the coil (same as any coil-on-plug), which is tough when you're in tight quarters and reaching deep under the cowling. You just have to persevere (good test of character lol).

All in all though, not a job I'd run to the dealer for (if you're DIY inclined) when they'll charge hundreds to do it for you! I also like doing my own plugs since plugs are like windows into how well your engine is running, and I like to see if anything is amiss (no pun intended). I have an old cardboard box with holes punched in it for each cylinder, and pop the plugs in as I go. That way, I have a record of how the engine is doing by the time I'm done.

 

Just did the plugs in my 07 Aspen (5.7L). Wasn't too bad and took about 3 hours. I was taking my time and that included gapping the NGK platinums to 0.045. Old ones were at 0.060 so it was time to change, they were the Champion copper. I also replaced my EGR valve (code PO406) and had to rethread the lower hole.
Here's a few tips to help you.

Remove the throttle body cover & resonator on the motor with 10mm socket, unhook the tube and airbox top. I had the line from the EGR to the back of the throttle body off so it made things a bit easier.
I started removing the connection to the plug coils by pushing a short flat screw driver blade against the tab and then pulled straight up. I just placed the connectors near the fuel rail. Then started removing the coils over the dual plug setups from the front and moving to the back of the motor on the passenger side. 10mm socket again for this. The back was a bit tight but manageable, use your fingers to unscrew them once they are loose and wiggle the coils off gently but firmly. Leave the bolts in the coil pack and place the paks to the side. I put mine in the order I took them off but I don' think this matters on reinstall.
Blow out all the spark plug holes with compressed air. I started at the back because I had already tried doing one on the drivers front the day before. This gives you a bit more free space as the work moves towards the front of the engine so you're not skinning your knuckles on the coil packs and bolts. Again a bit tight but take your time to get the plugs out. I used a 5/8" plug socket (with inside rubber grommet) with a 3" wobble extension and then added a 3/8 to 1/2" conversion on the backend once the socket was over the plug. This gave me a bit more torque loosening the plug with the 1/2" rachet. You won't be able to see inside but I had no problems centering over the plug and pushing down for taking out or reinstalling. I used a 1/2" rachet on the conversion socket to undo the plug and once it was loose enough I took off the rachet and then loosened the rest of the way by hand. I had to take off the conversion piece to get the plug up and out of the hole. The wobble extension is a must here.
When I had the back two plugs out I installed the new platinums using the same method in reverse as taking them out. I put anti-sieze on the threads and di-electric grease on the other end and threaded in with the socket and wobble extension then added the 3/8 to 1/2" converter and tightened as much as I could by hand. They all went in good no binding at all. There is just enough of the wobble extension exposed to tighten it most of the way by hand. I used a torque wrench at 156 lb-in to get the feel on the first one and then did the rest the same. Once I had taken out and replaced each pair I reblew out the spark plug holes and started installing the coil packs from the rear moving forward. Back was tight and took some wiggling and patience but eventually I was able to guide the plug boots into the holes. Tightened the coil packs as I moved forward - careful here I think about 65 lb-in. You can tighten then down most of the way by hand.
Reclipped the connectors on the coil packs and that side was done.
Same for the drivers side but watch the brake lines, electrical cables etc. Have patience and follow the sequence and it will work for you. I sprayed some throttle body cleaner in the throttle body while I had it exposed.
Reconnect the air box system and battery and fire it up.
Mine ran and idled good and no engine light after a short run with some good throttle ups.
Will keep you posted if the platinums give me problems.
Hope this helps as it turned out to be easier than doing the plugs on my 2005 GMC Jimmy - drivers centre plug is a bi**h.

 

Took my 07 Aspen out for a good spin today after changing the plugs and EGR. I didn't get any engine check lights, engine stumble or misfires as some said I might. Scan tool confirmed this. In fact performance was very good but not sure if I can attribute to the new EGR or new plugs with the proper gap, probably both.

Here's a link to the acetone article on improving gas mileage, Acetone In Fuel Said to Increase Mileage

The fellow Louis Lapointe makes some good points especially how it decreases the carbon build up in the motor so if for nothing else it makes your engine run cleaner and gets rid of the black soot in your tail pipe. Apparently Mythbusters said it doesn't work but I did try it myself a few years ago and got an extra 3-4 mpg on the highway in a 2005 GMC Jimmy. I had no problems with seals or gaskets swelling or breaking so claims that it affects them were not relevant for the Vortec motor. The Hemi may be different. There's a lot of controversy on this issue. Anyway for those interested check out the link and make your own decision and let me know if you try it and what your results are.

 

Yup...every 30k on plugs. My buddy/mechanic has a viper gts and says that he changes his every 30k as well. He was advised against using 100k platinum plugs in his V10.

 

I dont think $225 taxes in is a bad price at a dealership that specializes in hemi engines. You can cause a lot of problems if you make a mistake.

 

i did this a couple of weeks ago, and i went with the regular oe spark plug replacement which was the champion copper plus or something like that, .45 GAP. as long a you have all the right tools it isnt too bad it just take a little bit because the engine is tucked up under the cowl just a tad. you will need a 3/8 ratchet, 1 10" extension, 2 3" extensions, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 5/8 socket, universal joint, 16 spark plugs and some mechanical knowledge. i think thats about all you need. you will have to disconnect your battery and remove that as well to give youa little more room once you get to the passenger side, remove your air intake assembly, along with the throttle body cover (be sure to disconnect the mass air flow sensor plug that is in the front of it and any other connectors or hoses) after this is down the top of your engine should be expose for you to get into the meat and potatoes of the work. i started on the driver side front because that was the easiest one and once i got the hang of it i did the most difficult which are the way back ones. you will have to unplug your coil packs and unbolt them from the block the size is a 10mm. once that is done pull the coil pack out and set aside. for the front 2 spark plugs you wont have to use the universal joint just your 5/8 socket or spark plug socket, 3/8 ratchet, and 1 or 2 of the extensions. take those babies out and them pop you new ones in. be sure not to over tighten the sprak plugs, rule of thumb is your want to tighten until the are snug and then about 1/8 to 1/16 turn have that, not much. once those are back in put your coil pack back in, bolt it on and plug it in, you will repeat this process and use the various tools mentioned above to complete the job hope this helps