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well had the same problem air only coming out of center vents Aspen 2007 at dealer here in Toledo Ohio 1425 Dollars not happy with Chrysler but with winter coming have to have defroster working
I see that this is an old post, but I am having the same problem. It seems that everyone had the dealer fix it, but do you know exactly what was done at the dealership to fix it? We're not afraid to rip the whole dash out to fix it. Any insight would be helpful.
well had the same problem air only coming out of center vents Aspen 2007 at dealer here in Toledo Ohio 1425 Dollars not happy with Chrysler but with winter coming have to have defroster working
The mode door actuator is accessible without removing a single panel and the motors are cheap. 3 bolts - something silly like a T20 as I recall. Mine has damage behind the motor but many fail internally due to worn plastic gears. Likely worth a look before dropping a grand. Put the driver's seat back and lay on your back looking up just between the steering column and gas pedal area. It will look like the pic I attached.
You can operate the door manually easy enough when the actuator is removed (It takes 2 minutes to remove).
Yes, you can get to the actuator motor for the mode door without taking anything else apart. My problem was that the corner of the mode door that attaches to the actuator was broken off, so the mode door was just dangling in a downward position. We were able to disassemble the dash, epoxy the mode door back together, and reassemble the whole thing. I did a write-up for it on DodgeDurango.net.. Search for it under my user id - I used the same one for both forums - LizzR. I hope this helps someone out there!
Thank you Liz! I did see your thread and the details are exceptional. Luckily in my case, the door/shaft itself appears to be intact. I just need to figure out what the broken plastic bushing/interface behind the motor might be. I know in 2011 Chryslers there's a gear/bushing behind it but I've seen no such reference for D/Aspens. I'll figure it out and tag this thread unless someone else beats me to it (this is a pic of something similar I would imagine) - anyone?? This is an HVAC 'gear' that mates the back of the actuator to the blend/mode door shaft - 2011+ Chry. Does anyone know if Durangos/Aspens -07s might use something similar??
Hi Neex -
There is a piece that connects the actuator motor to the mode door. There is a clear picture in that post by thomps22. In both of our cases, that piece was fine. It was the corner of the mode door that was broken. As far as I know, that connector piece is not sold separately. It is part of the big plastic "AC & Heater Case" that has the doors in it (PN 68057728AA for auto temp control and dual zone). This is the part that the dealer will replace. The part is around $500 and the labor is high because the entire dash needs to be opened up. If you can, when you take the actuator off, try to see if the plastic stop for the actuator is still intact. It was the failure of the stop on the outside of the AC & Heater Case that caused over-rotation of the actuator that, in turn, caused the corner of the mode door to rip apart. I'm not sure if you'll be able to see it or not through the jungle of under dash dodads. Thomps22 also has a picture of the outside of the box with a mangled stop. Our pictures were taken after the dash was apart, and I'm not sure if you can see it or not while it is still together. In the beginning, I thought that it was the gears on the connector piece, but further inspection proved otherwise.
I hope you can nail down your exact issue. Please post when you figure it out.
I think this is the gizmo I need. Ridiculous that it isn't sold separately. Apparently the folks at heatertreater have fab'd one from steel. I'm sure breaking it is part of the design to save the motor/doors but at this point I just want to fix it.
Thanks for all your help! I will keep this thread updated for sure!
and better yet thank to the pics from thomps22 @ DD.net - hope I'm ok to repost!! THIS is what I need....
Here's the part for the adapter if anyone can figure out where it came from. Original motor is from TRW. The bad news is that my casing behind the motor is cracked - torquey little motor that fella is.