When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's the part for the adapter if anyone can figure out where it came from. Original motor is from TRW. The bad news is that my casing behind the motor is cracked - torquey little motor that fella is. I now know for sure I need to fabricate a lower stop and possibly replace the door. Now to determine the best place to cut as I don't want to tear out the dash...
Great pictures. I'm glad you had access to take them! It's been a year since we fixed mine, so I'm a little fuzzy about what it looked like. Sorry to tell you this, but it seems like you have the exact same problem that Thomps22 and I both had. That torquie little motor sheared off the plastic stop, kept spinning and tore the corner off of the mode door. The adapter thing is probably still intact, but I can't tell from your picture of it. Do you see a defect with it? If you put the adapter in the receiver on the side of the case, and you can spin it 360 degrees, your corner is broken off of your mode door. If the mode door is intact, it will only move 90 degrees.
This is the outside of my housing. The plastic stop at 6 o'clock is sheared off.
This is the outside of the housing with the adapter in it. It is positioned at the existing stop for 9 o'clock and the mode doors (you can't see them in this view) are in the down position.
This is the outside of the housing with the adapter in it. It is positioned at the newly created stop at 6 o'clock and the mode doors (you can't see them in this view) are in the up position.
apologies for so many replies - it's good to keep this info in one place however as it took a lot of research to track this down... the coupler part is available separately and has also been reinforced to be 30-50% stronger than max torque of the actuator's test cycle. Anyway... it still doesn't solve my issue but I wanted to share...
OK, now that I've read your most recent post again and looked more carefully at the picture of your adapter, I see that your adapter is split on the side. I did a quick look for the adapter and I can't even find what the actual name of the part is! I also searched on the part number - I think that I read it in your picture as 05061590AA, and it came up empty as well. It looks like you need mystery part #14
This drawing is on a couple of Mopar parts providers websites. When you're on their site, you can click on the drawing and then scroll down to the referenced part. Of course, part #14 is not listed at all, so we don't even know the official name of the part. That would be helpful in searching for it on the web or even at the dealer. Last year when I was searching for a replacement mode door, I discovered that they are not sold separately and that is why I went with repairing the door. I truly don't know how you can repair the door without taking the dash apart. You would have to cut a really BIG hole in the case to get enough access. If you do go that route, be sure to post how you did it. There's more than one way to fix something! Because you may not be able to purchase a replacement adapter (aka mystery part #14), you may have to repair that piece as well. Maybe a junk yard? I would imagine that it's the same for the Durango, so you may have some luck there - you would probably need to look for one with automatic climate control.
Wow, I guess I type slooooow. You posted while I was typing. Awesome that you found the coupling!. See? It pays to know the right name in order to do a proper search, LOL.
The coupler is not damaged on my vehicle at all - looks brand new. My issue is that the rod broke away from the piece that mates with the coupler. I'm nearly 100% certain that I can fix it once I get up enough nerve to start cutting the plenum/box. If we were going to keep this truck forever I wouldn't dare hack into it but after replacing doors, ABS module and having a rusting hatch, slow leaking alloy rims, gas tank/lines/etc replaced after an exhaust shop blazed it, it doesn't owe us anything anymore... one more winter we always say.... Thinking of attacking through the glove box side as it looks like both plenums are in line with each other and my hackery will be hidden once the glove box goes back in... I saw this done on an old jeep and it looks like the way to go...
I cut into the driver side plenum right beside the blend door with an exacto blade on a soldering iron. We'll see if it ends up photo worthy and if I can fix this...
I cut into the driver side plenum right beside the blend door with an exacto blade on a soldering iron. We'll see if it ends up photo worthy and if I can fix this...
11-22-2019, 12:01 PM
Thinking of attacking through the glove box side as it looks like both plenums are in line with each other and my hackery will be hidden once the glove box goes back in... I saw this done on an old jeep and it looks like the way to go...
