I have a 2007 Pacifica touring with the 4.0 engine. About three weeks ago I replaced the battery because because it was starting to die and figured its a few years old now and probably needs replacing. A week after replacing the battery, my wife gets up to go to work and the battery is dead. I figured one of the kids must have left something on and drained the battery. So I jump start the car and it was fine until this past weekend. We had to go to Columbus, oh from the Toledo area. When we arrived at the hotel we unload the car, this only took about 5min. to do. I go start the car back up after only a few minutes and the battery was dead, I couldn't even get it jump started. I had to buy another new battery so we could get back home. We pull into our driveway, turn the car off, and tried to restart it. Battery is dead again! Today I pulled the alternator out and take it to autozone for testing and there was nothing wrong with it. Then to oreillys for a second opinion, same result. What could possibly be wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

See if you can get/borrow a small digital meter to use. Next time you think the batt is dead, check the voltage before you do anything else at the batt. I have seen 3 batts that quickly went dead and 2 checked 4.8 volts. Yep, sure seemed dead but the car was jumped and started and ran ONLY a couple of minutes, turned off and restarted fine and had full voltage and has been ok ever since ! Still have reservations about the batt though. All were name brand batts and not very old either. Anyway get a cheap tool to check with and when you check it and IF it shows at least 12 volts then something else is wrong with the system, wiggle the key and gearshift lever while trying to start, swap relay positions with the same number before going deeper. Also log in and read the cure for "Flickering Lights" thread if you have more trouble. But DO report back your findings good or bad. Good luck. *BW*

 

Hey, this is probably a lame question from what you wrote but: when you say the battery was dead, do you mean all electrical in the car dead? Lights, radio, etc? Or just no cranking to start?

Your TOL neighbor

 

From post #2. > I have seen 3 batts that quickly went dead and 2 checked 4.8 volts. Yep, sure seemed dead but the car was jumped and started and ran ONLY a couple of minutes, turned off and restarted fine and had full voltage and has been ok ever since ! Still have reservations about the batt though< Just as we thought it would do. One month later it was dead again and checked 9+ volts. Took it back to the name brand dealer who charged it over nite and did a load test the next day and it checked fine. I don't think we could trust it and paid nearly $40 to get a new one as pro rated for 13 months. We'll see how this one goes over time. Wish we could hear back from DJSKI. Thanks. *BW*

 

Take voltmeter or tester and check voltage with the engine running. It should be about 14

 

Thanks Virglijus, with the new batt, car running, headlights on and ac running 14+ volts. We'll see. Have heard of others taking off the alternator and having it checked at a parts house and passing with flying colors. Many brands of cars the computer regulates the voltage as needed like the external voltage regulator did in years past. *BW*

 

Many thanks for that Barbara 2, you've just explained how an alternator can pass a test ok, but still not charge properly -- the ECM micro. is controlliing the charge! That reminded me that the old way was by a separate regulator to 14.4volt., often built in to the alternator itself. This also explains how a program can be changed in the ECM between 13.8volts and 14.4volt charging by using a laptop (at the dealer, of course!).

Leedsman.