NO ac clutch ok easy enough go to the ac clutch relay jump it see if u hear the clutch click on and off when u remove the jumper pin 30 and 87

 

Deke,
You won't see much with those glasses if the leak is inside the evap core (in the dash) unless you monitor the condensation drip coming out of the drain. You have to make sure the gauges are working. Have you tried the Kmart special on any other car (low side) to see if it at least reads anything on a working A/C system?

 

Pardon my dumb question, but can you tell me specifically where the ac clutch relay is located and what it looks like. I've ordered the shop manual, but it's not here yet.
Thanks for the input.
Deke

 

As for the evap core, doesn't the ac need to be working to provide any of the condensate to drip?
No, I haven't tried the gauge on anything else, but I have no reason to think it's bad. Shortly, my adapters will be here and I'll be able to use my manifold gauges anyway. Then again, I could use it on my pickup. I'll try that and report back.
Thanks,
Deke

 

the gauges wont do a a single bit of good if the ac compressor is not coming on u cant expect to get pressure out of a water hose if U don't turn on the water faucet.
Go to the fuse box under the hood open it up there is under the cover a layout of the fuses and relays find the ac clutch relay remove the relay look at the relay and it will tell u which pin is 87 and 30 turn the key one get a jumper wire touch 30 and 87 u should hear the compressor click over if U do its working. Next remove jumper turn on van jump it again see if the ac comes on nice and cold or ifs its just a little bit cold this is when u would need the gauges to see how low it is or a clog in the system some where.

 

Thanks, Kevin. I love this forum and all you people who give your time to help us duffers out!!! Tomorrow I'll attempt to do exactly that to see what happens. Hopefully my adapters will be here by then so I'll know what the pressures are. I'll report back with my findings.

Deke

 

This morning I did as you suggested and with engine off the compressor kicked on and off as I touched the leads to 30 and 87. (Someone else farther back suggested this, but your explanation was much more clear so that I felt confident in going for it.) I then started engine and same thing happened with cold air coming from the AC ducts.
Couple questions:
-What exactly am I doing by jumping 30/87? Is this overriding the low pressure sensor?
-I guess this tells me that the compressor is OK?
-Until I get my adapters, I don't know what my high side pressure is yet, so that will have to wait. Once I have the high and low side numbers, what should I be looking for?
-If they're low, should I just add a can or two of R134 or is there something else I should check first.
Thanks again for your help. I've been learning a lot about how the system works.
Deke
07 TC Touring 51K

 

It was me that suggested the clutch thing but was not sure how it is done in our vans (never had to fix it yet ) But all automobile A/C systems work alike. Something has to switch on the compressor. Typically,when you press the a/c button in a car, a relay is used to switch the compressor on since the dash button can't handle the current. So.. it sounds like something is not sending the signal to the relay to switch on.

This could be the cold climate disable thing we talked about, this could be low pressure in the system, could be a bad pressure switch. I guess one of the modules (PCM or BCM) is not switching the relay too. My question to you is how long did you leave the jumper in and test the system? You said cold but for 10 minutes or longer or just a minute or so. You are erring on the safe side I guess since you are waiting to check the pressure. I would need to look the wiring diagram to see how the pressure switch, control module, temp sensors, and clutch all play together. This can take some time and maybe Ctech has some input.

Hope this helps.
Fixit

 

Thank you Fixit. I appreciate the input. Well, I kinda wish I'd waited before I sent my previous reply. I added a can of $134a that brought the low side pressure up (I still don't have my adapters to check the high side) to about 45lbs while the engine was running and I had cold air. However, when I came back out to restart and check it again, the pressure was way down and no cold air was coming from the ducts. Lots of air, but not cold.
It was obvious I had to have a leak somewhere so I started at the front of the car looking for anything wet in the vicinity of the lines or the system. Everything up front was dry so I started following the lines back to the rear of the vehicle until I got all the way to the point behind the rear wheel well where the lines go up into a manifold just below the radiator and blower system inside the rear panels on the right side. Lying under the car I could see where the lines attached to what appears to be a manifold sticking down a couple inches in the wheel well. It was all wet with oil residue and appears to be the area where the leak is happening. However, it's impossible to tell from under the car where it originates. When I went inside the panel inside the vehicle where AC radiator/blower system is I can't tell there either where the leak is. It appears dry, but the leak is definitely finding it's way out under the car, though.
Any ideas about this, anybody? Is this a known leak point that has a documented fix? Do I really need this rear AC? It occurred to me that maybe I can just cap the lines off farther toward the front of the vehicle and eliminate the problem as it appears like it might be a very expensive repair that is beyond my abilities, and I'm out of work right now so money is tight.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated very much.
Thanks again,
Deke
07 TC Touring 51k

 

Well it sounds like you found your leak. You could wipe it all off and then see if you can find a pi hole or crack.. it it most likely where you see it unless it is the rear coil and leaking down. This is where the die comes in handy, but if you can visibly see it, changing the part should take care of it. I don't thin k you can cap this off. does not work that way. You might blow out the compressor. Not sure how much the 134a is but you could get another can or 2 and fill it, then go back there while A/C is on and see if you can see anything leaking/spraying out. Did the manual come yet? This will show you what components are back there and how to access them. Did something fly up off the tire and hit that area? I have not looked there yet so I don't know how exposed it is. Maybe when funds get better you can fix it. It might just be one of those lines.