Well it was a HOT day and coming up the hill, both fans were running full speed, ac was on, temperature gauge was at 10pm. As i was turning around a bend to park, the car stalled... not enough accelerator pedal, my fault.

Then the car refused to catch although the starter would turn the motor.

Here's the list of diagnostics taken:no error codes

1. low pressure fuel pump ok
2. high pressure pump ok
3. listening to tops of one injector - could not hear solenoid - seems like signal is not getting through
4. open up air intake, turn motor whilst spraying in WD40, engine fires weakly but stops when spray is stopped - indicates pressures ok, timing cams have probably not slipped

Only thing I can think of the the ECM not sending signal. The blown fuses were the IGN of IOD/BATT and one park light fuse.

I am guessing current surge zapped the ECM and a couple of other circuits.

Would you guys agree with this logic?

Also here's another tidbit: last week engine was overheating, turned out that one 40A fuse was not in the box at all and I never took it out. Replaced it yesterday. This fuse would have enabled the high speed fan cooling if the engine became too hot. In other words, when all fuses blew today there was a lot of current flowing.

And yet another mystery, the IGN off IOD/BATT fuse that blew was 7.5A whereas it should be 20A according to the manual.

Can anyone explain how this might come about?

Is there a way to test the ECM?

Photos show inside of the ECM.

Thx, kkc

 

Hi there,

Hmm, that is a strange one. I think you've done a lot of the diagnostics there and I think I'd be heading towards the same conclusion, except I'd expect more not to work if the ECU was fried, I am not sure exactly if it would turn the starter over or not (Car immobiliser I think is the BCM not ECU, ECU dedicated only to engine management, timing, etc).

Testing the ECU is also not easily done without complex diagnostic kit, you might be better off searching online for one of the services where you can ship it to them for replacement/repair or reprogramming.

I'm going to assume you've done the basics first, pulled the battery for a couple of hours to let it fully reset the car, then when you put key in does the immobiliser light go out? (That's a thought, could the immobiliser be disabling the car?)

Sorry it's not a solution, just another few thoughts that might help! Good luck with it.

 

Hi Andy, Yep, I had a look at the diagnostics and the SKIM (immobilizer, key ignition controller) is tied into the ECM. This means that one cannot just replace the ECM as the two controllers validate VIN and secret keys etc prior to successful ignition. What a pitb...! Next step is to check the harness wiring to the injectors. If that checks out, then it must be the ECM which I can send to an outfit for copying into a different used working ECM so that the secret key and vin are copied over. Cost about 150-200gbp. And then one hopes for no more failures...! I'll also check out your theory about residual currents and potentials screwing up the car and attempt a restart this pm. TY, kkc.

 

Finally had a chance to work on the car last weekend. Tested sensors and wiring. Quick question:

Tested the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors and got results as follows:

Camshaft Position Sensor with ignition (IGN) ON:

• GND ok
• Signal is 8.8v
  
• ECM/PCM relay o/p is 9v
  

Crankshaft Position Sensor with IGN ON:

• Harness Unplugged:
  • GND is OK
  • Signal = ECM/PCM = 2.5v
    
• Backprobe (harness connected):
  • GND = 0v
  • Signal = ECM/PCM = 2.5v

The sensors are fine. The camshaft readings seem ok to me. Can anyone comment on the crankshaft readings? thx.