Has anybody replaced the timing belt on a 2.5 CRD engine main dealer wants over £500 and was thinking might be possible to DIY, grateful for any advice thanks.

 

I changed the cam belt on my 2.8 CRD engine (the same as the 2.5 crd, they use the same belt) a few weeks ago. If you have ever changed a cam belt before you'll probably find it straight forward.

The air filter box has to come out, and so does the engine mount on that side of the engine....you have to support the engine to do this. Thats before you can even get the cam belt cover off.

However once you do this and get the front wheel off and wheel arch panel off, access is brilliant.

Bear in mind that the chrysler cambelt kit (which includes cam belt, 2 new idler pulleys and cambelt cover gasket) is around £140, And if this is your cars 2nd cambelt change (ie the 120,000 mile change) the tensioner (£70) should also be replaced. Add to this the cost of a new power steering belt (£13) and aux drive belt (£12) as they have to come off anyway so you might as well replace them.

So as you can see, you're into £165-£235 for the parts.

Although not essential, a trolly jack to support the engine and a set of axle stands to support the car make the job that bit easier.

 

Thanks very much for the info, I am tempted to give it a go. I have heard that a special tool is needed to lock the cams to stop them turning while the belt is this necessary.

 

Hi
The locking tools are need to set it up if the belt is broken or after head removal but not for a normal belt change. You can use a universal cam locking tool to hold them and just line up the crank. Don't loosen the cam sprocket bolts as they will spin and you will then need the tools. also don't use the marks on the cam pulleys as they don't line up with anything.

 

As Merlin says, you don't need any locking pins for the belt change.....the book says you should rotate the engine to 90 degrees beyond top dead centre so as no damage will occur should the cams move when you take the belt off (which they probably will if you don't lock them together)

I just used tippex to mark the position of the 2 cam sprockets, crank sprocket and the high pressure fuel pump sprocket (although in theory this should not be required on a common rail engine?) before I took the old belt off.

I borrowed a set of universal cam locking tools and found one that fitted.....with that in place, nothing moved when I took the old belt off. So was easily able to put the new idler pullys and belt on with no fuss and see that everything lined up on my marks.

You could probably improvise something to lock the cams together, but I'd just buy a locking tool off ebay.....I've done cam belts on other twin cam cars without locking the cams, and as soon as the belt comes off they jump round under valve spring pressure....and they need a bit of wellie to move back by hend....not ideal when you are fighting to put the new belt on.

Good luck.

 

Thanks guys for the info, I am still 6k off the change (about 3 months) yet but now feel confident about giving it a go. appears that all the parts are available on ebay so will start ordering.

 

I forgot to mention, I'd be temped to hire an impact wrench to get the crank pulley nut off. It's torqued up pretty tight and where it is, it's difficult to get a breaker bar on it.

Also if you are going to replace the aux and power steering belt (you might as well as they have to come off) the power steering belt is a stretch fit belt......make sure the replacement is stretch fit also......this particular belt size in stretch fit is only used on the voyager diesel and no other car, so can be difficult to find.....my local motor factors had to order it in.

Good luck!

 

It was wonder thing.But i would to suggest that if you are replace the your power staring belt than you can see that the replacement is to power fit.Because some time it could be happened when you replace the car lubricants You can not get power fit replacement.I wish you can take best effort for ordering.Good day.

 

I'll be buggered if I know what you are saying.

I think (although I'm not entirely sure) that the gist of your post is similar to my llast post regarding the power steering belt.

 

Should be able to leave the main crank shaft bolt and just undue the 4 x 10mm bolts and take the pulley off.