Thanks Merlin - just need a bit of warmer weather and I'll do this and get the rear wiper and tailgate release sorted

 

I had the same problem with my 2001 Voyager- rear window washer and wiper quit at the same time. I checked the fuse for rear wiper in fuse box and it looked good and not blown.
At the suggestion of my brother-in-law, I removed it and put in a new fuse. That did the trick in that they both work now and are still working six months later. Hope you have as much luck as I did.

 

Thanks. I wondered about a fuse, but the washer is still working - it's only the wiper (and tailgate release switch) that aren't working, so I assume it's not the fuse.

 

OK, finally got some decent weather to look at this. Checked the power supply to the motor and all looks ok, so I assume it must be the motor itself, so a new one on order.

Whilst I had the trim off, I took the tailgate release switch off and took it apart - it was corroded badly inside the switch so I did a repair (stripped the innards out and replaced with a small switch from Maplins - total cost just over £1 for the parts. However, when putting it back, it still doesn't work, so I checked the four pin connector and only one pin is live - and that's the number plate light when the light switch is on. Am I correct in thinking that there should be a live pin for the tailgate release?

 

Hi
How are you checking it, test light or volt meter? from memory I am sure it's only a 5volt supply and it's the BCM that then operates the lock.

 

I'm using a test light, and I have the feeling it was either 6-24v or 12-24v range so 5 volts may not be enough to activate the bulb - I'll see if I can find my voltmeter somewhere.

One other thought - my drivers door power door switch doesn't work (the passenger side switch works fine) - I assume this has no effect on the tailgate release.

 

Hi
Shouldn't be as not the same circuit. get a volt meter and we can go from there

 

Spot on again Merlin - voltmeter shows 3.5v on one of the pins when everything else off. I presume that if I eliminate the lighting pins, then the remaining pin is the signal return wire and if I jump this to the live pin, I can rule out the release switch itself (and my repair to it). Also, presumably, once these two pins are connected, then I should get power to the tailgate release solenoid?

 

Hi
I believe the switch is resisted so the BCM can test the circuit for open or short circuit so no don’t think you can bridge it.

 

Oh bugger - that presumably means that my repair to the switch won't work as it stands - any idea of what the resistance is so I can put one in series to sort this out?