This morning my battery was dead and there was a rapid ticking noise coming from the IPM fuse relay box or somewhere in that area. Any thoughts on what the noise could be? Sorry if im not specific enough.

P.S. for the smart alecs no its not a bomb

 

First off, Welcome.

Probably not enough voltage to keep systems running or in their ready state. How old is the battery? How are the connections to it.. clean dirty, lose? Has it been starting OK? strong or weak? Have you had dim lights? We really need more specifics if you want help.

 

yep, if battery voltage is too low, the relays will buzz or rapidly click. you must have never ever had a dead battery ever in your life before this occurance.

 

The terminals are clean as a whistle and tight as tight can get. It has always started without any hesitation until this morning. The lights have always worked properly. I have encountered quite a few dead batteries in my day. However none of them were associated with any ticking good sir or ma'am. The vehicle was fine on Thursday and dead on Friday. Just seems to me there would have been some warning signs here or there.

 

so do you have a battery load tester? have you checked battery voltage? batteries often go bad w/o warning. Then there's always the possibility that something caused a parasitic draw that killed the battery overnight. I had a customer that had a dead battery every day.. the cause was the top of the battery was slimy.. cleaned the battery and fixed the problem.

You must have never had a battery that was a few volts above dead. at 9v, you will have this problem. at 0-3 or so volts, everything is DEAD. See at 9v or so, you have enough energy that the relays will energize, but when you go to start, there isn't enough voltage and the current drop from the start mode drops battery voltage enough to cut out the relay, then once the starter relay opens, then the battery voltage is sufficient to re-energize the relay, but then as current tryies to turn the starter, there's enough power loss that the relay does not have enough voltage or current to stay energized. when this happens the relay opens which opens the circuit to the starter. because the relay is low current to energize, the battery has enough power to energize the magnetic field in the relay,but as soon as the relay closes, the contacts of the high current part of the relay transmits current to the starter, but there isn't enough power to turn the starter, and so the vicious circle continues.

 

No I dont have a load tester. No I have not checked the battery voltage (it will be replaced). The battery I have went dead because something killed it which is what Im most interested in. I may be wrong but you strike me as a bit of an ****.

 

Neato... if you replace the battery and still have problems, I read this on another forum...

So All Ye Members who have replaced your PCM please chime in and let the other members know that you had a successful replacement of this component and your ride is whole again. Please decribe you experience.
Some members seem to want some assurance that the problem could actually be repaired.

The boys and girls at "AutoComputerExchange" say their bad rap is because
quite a few people misdiagnose their problem and the replaement PCM doesn't fix their problem. Persons will order the wrong PCM which very often causes a complete no start "period" when the vehicle used to start most of the time.

Their Examples: Need a new Body Control Module instead
Need new Trnasmiision Control Module (Electrics go wild ,tranny in LIMP mode
Intermittent Fuel pump
Instrument Cluster Fault
Camshaft position/angle sensor
Crankshaft position/angle sensor fault
Bad battery
Wiring harnesses broken or corroded etc. etc.

 

neato, I see no reason for name calling. I exactly explained how a relay buzzes when the voltage isn't sufficient.... since it's obvious you have no clue.