It was Raptor 7 last that brought the incidences of poor connections at this unit.
I had a look at it while replacing my battery, just spring the plastic clip down wing side and hey, it rolls over on engine side plastic hinges.
But how the hell do the wiring connectors/plugs come off. There's red or is it orange clips on the plugs, some are in and some are out, these are the locks by look of it. Tried wiggling plugs, locks in and out, no show, wouldn't come off. Didn't want to cause damage, oh, ah, forget about that for now.
So obvious question, how do they come of and what's lock position when locked.

 

I can't exactly REM, most were the usual clip, I think one was a slide-lock, certainly I has no probs with reading glasses, a cup of coffee and patience. What the heck is that stray 'one off' orange / red wire patched with tape into the white [(green female)] wire ?

 

Some of these look familiar to me.
I think with that grey one you press the in sides to withdraw, the others you slip a slim-bladed screwdriver down to release the locking mechanism. Examine with a magnifying glass carefully to see how it's done. There are many of these different locking mechanisms around, from different plug/socket makers, and they fool people like me sometimes as to how they come out.
If there's a fault associated with them, check the following --
1) The crimping of the flex-ends to the plug's pin. Sometimes this is loose very slightly. I use a long nose pair of pliers to gently pull the flexible to see if it moves away from the pin-terminal. (We used to have to do this with all crimped connexions to meet BSI spec., using a 2.5Kg weight). If it is loose, best plan is to solder it using wire solder and some flux + a fine-bit iron. The pin will come out of the plastic socket, but you need a pin-puller tool to get it out. These are as rare as ****'s eggs.
2) Look carefully at the underside of the PCB where the sockets are soldered to the board's print. This can be a bad joint area, as sometimes they are soldered in by hand instead of the flow-soldering machine.
3) While you're at it, examine ALL the joints with a magnifying glass and a bright light for that tell-tale slightly dark ring around the component's lead-out wire where it's soldered to the print. Statistics -- around 50% of faults can be found by careful visual inspection. This will take some time.
4) Check for any signs of water ingress to the board. This often leaves tell-tale white-ish streaks on the solder side. If there is, clean it off with PCB cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush. Really, the board should be "tropicalized", meaning that it's sprayed at factory with a special varnish on the solder side at least. This makes finding dry joints harder. You have to scrape it off before you can solder. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE the importance of water ingress; an ABS board on a previous car of mine had water ingress, set itself on fire, and the rest of the car followed it to the tune of a £7,500 write-off. The ABS board was powered even at ign.-off.

Leedsman.

 

Yes good. As to QinteQ's statement of the odd red wire which goes downwards below battery tray. I've still to find where it goes but I'll do that when cars front wheels are on ramps and while checking another two faults: manual gearbox reverse switch and nearside headlight not working. These faults to post.

 

To QinteQ answer to red wire coming off connector in bottom of IPM unit I found its other end near the Offside headlamp. And guess what after connecting it to a bared bit on wire on headlamp plug cables dipped beam now works. Red wire connected to white/light blue near plug. So looks like there is a break between lamp and IPM.
Fault temp repair as I prefer it going via loom..
There's also a black wire coming from radiator area connecting to white/light blue wire on this same wiring. Another day perhaps.