2005 van turned off while driving
#1
2005 van turned off while driving
When I looked down, all the dash lights were on, dials all at zero and now it won't start. No power to the starter, Battery works, starter tested good, can't get it to code a problem.
#8
I'm assuming the two fuses involved are good.
No click from the starter relay or starter solenoid in the starter means the control side of the start system is dead. Before we get to that make sure the output side is going to work when you need it.
Pull the starter relay out and turn it over. You'll see numbers identifying the contacts. Correlate those to the contacts on the relay socket on the panel. Now jumper contacts #30 and #87 on the relay socket. If the output side is good the engine should rotate immediately regardless of the ignition switch position.
To check the control side you have to verify power and ground are getting to the starter relay coil. The PCM supplies the ground. Turn the key to start and look for 12vdc at contact #86. If it's not there either the ignition switch, internal IPM circuit, or wiring between are open. To check for the ground from the PCM check continuity from the PCM to the IPM. That's from contact #14 connector C3 on the IPM to contact 38 on connector C3 on the PCM. (Always disconnect the battery before disconnecting/reconnecting the PCM***). It's a dark green/orange wire. If that's good there's one more thing to look at.
I've never had to go this far so I am depending heavily on this wiring diagram. The PCM supplies the ground when the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) T41 switch contacts are closed, meaning when the gear shift is in park or neutral. To test that whole circuit make sure you're in PARK then disconnect connector C4 on the PCM (***) and check for continuity from contact #27 to ground. That should be a dark green/grey wire.
This is why I was hoping you heard a click. No click means there's a problem with the control side. When that's the case, from reading, many times the PCM is bad. Those little gems are pricey ranging from $200 to $600.
No click from the starter relay or starter solenoid in the starter means the control side of the start system is dead. Before we get to that make sure the output side is going to work when you need it.
Pull the starter relay out and turn it over. You'll see numbers identifying the contacts. Correlate those to the contacts on the relay socket on the panel. Now jumper contacts #30 and #87 on the relay socket. If the output side is good the engine should rotate immediately regardless of the ignition switch position.
To check the control side you have to verify power and ground are getting to the starter relay coil. The PCM supplies the ground. Turn the key to start and look for 12vdc at contact #86. If it's not there either the ignition switch, internal IPM circuit, or wiring between are open. To check for the ground from the PCM check continuity from the PCM to the IPM. That's from contact #14 connector C3 on the IPM to contact 38 on connector C3 on the PCM. (Always disconnect the battery before disconnecting/reconnecting the PCM***). It's a dark green/orange wire. If that's good there's one more thing to look at.
I've never had to go this far so I am depending heavily on this wiring diagram. The PCM supplies the ground when the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) T41 switch contacts are closed, meaning when the gear shift is in park or neutral. To test that whole circuit make sure you're in PARK then disconnect connector C4 on the PCM (***) and check for continuity from contact #27 to ground. That should be a dark green/grey wire.
This is why I was hoping you heard a click. No click means there's a problem with the control side. When that's the case, from reading, many times the PCM is bad. Those little gems are pricey ranging from $200 to $600.
#9
A small edit. That should say "That's from contact #85 at the starter relay to contact #38 on connector C3 on the PCM."
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