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2010 T&C Windows Go Down Unexpectedly

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  #1  
Old 09-26-2017, 07:47 AM
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Default 2010 T&C Windows Go Down Unexpectedly

I have a 2010 T&C with about 170,000 miles that has recently been giving us problems. We will park and lock the van with the windows up and upon return the windows will be down. Before we had a chance to look at this problem or have it looked at, we woke up to a dead battery. The key will not come out of the ignition now. I will pick up a new battery today. We have also been living with a broken plastic wire harness chain in the driver's side sliding door for a while.

Is this a TIPM problem? Could it a broken wire from the sliding door? What else should I look at?
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 08:09 AM
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I also wanted to add that the battery posts had a lot of corrosion on them. The battery was tested and needs to be replaced. It cannot be recharged. I am not sure how the dead battery is related to the window issue or the wiring harness issue.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 12:08 PM
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Hi there, have seen many of the things you have going on, First off yes a poorly maintained battery and cables will play HAVOC on the electronics of any modern car!Get that squared away. The power sliding doors have been notorious for a wire to break in that plastic track in the bottom of the door opening, google dodge caravan power door fix. YOUTUBE has some very good vid's on where to look and fix. As for windows being "possessed", believe it or not I have seen a couple now with bad remotes causing that and lights/alarms to do all kinds of strange things(off/on/windows down/partway back up)! Once you get the battery replaced try removing the fob battery for a while and use the manual key for entry and see if these "quirks" stop happening, the plastic key will still work the ignition.BTDT
Looking to hear back on how things go!
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 01:17 PM
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Thanks Rebel.

In my case the plastic wire track is broken in several places and needs to be replaced. I don't think it can be repaired. How do I find the right part number? I see 5 parts that look are labeled #4 on the parts diagram and don't know which one I need.

68078885AC WIRE TRACK, WIRING. Sliding Door Left, Sliding Door Track. . [JP5,JRB,CJ5], [JP5], [JRA], [CJ1], [JP5], [JRB], [CJ5], [JRA], [JRB,CJ5], [JRB].
Left Power Sliding Door+Supp. Side Curtain All Rows Air Bags.
Left Power Sliding Door-Thatcham Security Equipment.
WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. [JRB,CJ5].
WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. [JRB].

68056203AC WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. . [JPD,CJ5].
Power Windows, Driver One-Touch+Supp. Side Curtain All Rows Air Bags.
WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. [JPD,CJ5].

68056201AC WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. . [JPD].
Power Windows, Driver One-Touch-Supp. Side Curtain All Rows Air Bags.
WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. [JPD].

68056213AC WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. . [JRB,LS9].
Left Power Sliding Door+Thatcham Security Equipment. WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. [JRB,LS9].

68078883AC WIRING. Sliding Door Track. Left. . [JP5], [CJ1], [JP5], [CJ5].
Pwr Windows, Frt/Rear, Ft 1-Touch+Supp. Side Curtain All Rows Air Bags-Left Power Sliding Door.
WIRE TRACK. Sliding Door Left. [JP5,CJ5].

I hope to have a new battery this afternoon and then will try replacing the FOB battery.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 04:52 PM
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Do NOT replace the fob battery ...JUST TAKE IT OUT to disable the fob and see what it does. on 2 different of your type the fob circuit board was bad causing cross feed signals to the BCM to to the actions you describe.
As for your harness replacement, YOU have the descriptions given for each part number listed, YOU have to determine WHICH one is for ALL of the OPTIONS equipped in your van.
All pretty expensive AND LABOR intensive, the plastic track can be disassembled and find the forward most break and replace that wire to the rearmost break. A proper gage butt connector or soldered and heatshrink wrap over it is a LOT less costly and time consuming to do. Did you look it up on youtube as I suggested? It is NOT that hard of a job to do. I have done this on 2 of my vans and it only took about 1/2 start to finish to FIND and FIX the problem. I will look forward to progress reports!
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 05:14 PM
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I don't have time to mess with it tonight, but even with the new car battery the van will not start. When I put the new battery in the horn sounded a few times and I could hear what sounds like an HVAC damper moving. When I turned the ignition I heard what might be a relay clicking, but it does not even try to turn over. It doesn't sound like what I recall a bad starter to sound like. The instrument panel did not stay lit at first.
This makes me think it could be the bad fuel pump relay on the TIPM which has been widely reported. I think that the sliding door wiring is a secondary problem, but I will look into it more when I get time. That appears to be an easy fix.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 05:23 PM
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The theft system sounds like it was activated, IF the starter motor does not crank the engine over(why so,because you reported the horn sounded off) Also with FOB battery OUT the plastic key chip part will still be functional for startup of the van. just the features of the remote will not work.
Can you clarify...Turn key, starter spins but no engine run. OR turn key no STARTER motor action.
 
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Old 09-26-2017, 05:48 PM
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Also where in the world are you and van located? N.A. market or EU market?
 
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:05 AM
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I still have not had time to work on the van other than trying to start it without the battery in the key fob. I don't think I hear the starter trying to turn, although I hear a single clunk sound that maybe could be the starter. What I mostly hear is rapid fire clicking. I need someone to help me so I can listen more closely to try to find where it is coming from. The dashboard lights will also flash rapidly sometimes when I try to start the van. I need to try to get a video of it.

The van and I are in Ohio.
 
  #10  
Old 09-27-2017, 06:19 AM
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Recheck and clean the battery cable ends, you said there was a lot of corrosion on them.
Need good CLEAN and SHINEY ends that sit on the battery posts.
Nice to know that this is N.A. market and in USA, as there are some differences to the EU.models, and terminology(wordings) need some attentions due to our USA "slang"!..LOL
 


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