battery specs
#1
battery specs
Hey guys,
We have a 2008 T&C that still has its original battery. We are trying to find out whether its a 4, 5, 6, or 7 year battery but the dealer said since it's discontinued, they no longer had that data available.
Could anyone tell me if they have any info on that or where to find it. The battery info is:
part# 4609365AE
reserve: 120
CCA: 600
Mopar# A-34A
Thanks for any help.
Lou
We have a 2008 T&C that still has its original battery. We are trying to find out whether its a 4, 5, 6, or 7 year battery but the dealer said since it's discontinued, they no longer had that data available.
Could anyone tell me if they have any info on that or where to find it. The battery info is:
part# 4609365AE
reserve: 120
CCA: 600
Mopar# A-34A
Thanks for any help.
Lou
#3
battery specs
Three years only! I guess we are on borrowed time as the vehicle approaches it's 5th birthday in March.
Also, did some voltmeter tests in an attempt to check condition of our battery and came up with the following results:
Voltage off: 12.1V
Voltage in "on" position: 11.5V
Voltage while cranking engine: 9.7V
Voltage while running: 13.9V
Voltage with accessories on, engine running: 13.6V
Voltage after shutting engine down: 12.5V
Does this mean it is on it's way out, as it drops to 9.7V while cranking? It sounds a little weak when cranking. Also, a small map light was left on the other day for about 2 hrs and the battery would not turn over the engine when attempting to start. All the lights dimmed and the dashboard info center blinked on and off while cranking. Jumped ok. Has been fine since. Didn't want to change it unless necessary, so would like an opinion if it's really time. Also, winter's coming here in MA. Thanks for the help.
Lou
Also, did some voltmeter tests in an attempt to check condition of our battery and came up with the following results:
Voltage off: 12.1V
Voltage in "on" position: 11.5V
Voltage while cranking engine: 9.7V
Voltage while running: 13.9V
Voltage with accessories on, engine running: 13.6V
Voltage after shutting engine down: 12.5V
Does this mean it is on it's way out, as it drops to 9.7V while cranking? It sounds a little weak when cranking. Also, a small map light was left on the other day for about 2 hrs and the battery would not turn over the engine when attempting to start. All the lights dimmed and the dashboard info center blinked on and off while cranking. Jumped ok. Has been fine since. Didn't want to change it unless necessary, so would like an opinion if it's really time. Also, winter's coming here in MA. Thanks for the help.
Lou
#5
CCA rating [Cold Cranking Amps] must meet or exceed the climate the car operates in. CCA along with other parameters diminishes over the life [years] of the battery. For example buying a battery that exceeds the rating for a hot climate is a waste of cash, whereas buying one with double the CCA in Norway Finland would be an essential safeguard. Your voltage off reading of 12.1v is perilously close to 11.9v or lower, which indicates a discharged battery.
The world is full of factories manufacturing replacement batteries because they have a limited shelf life, and a limited working life, and that cold cranking working life diminishes even faster in cold climates. I'm old school - if you buy the recommended battery - your buying a loser, but your $$$ keep the factories open manufacturing replacements.
I'm in the UK but my puter tells me you are close to a chance of snow, so at a temp of 3 °C and falling over the next several months, and battery older than 3 [less capable of producing CCA's] years, with a """ slow sluggish """ crank suggests your battery is close to but not yet fit for purpose, and this in a vehicle that has a high parasitic [ignition off] load.
The world is full of factories manufacturing replacement batteries because they have a limited shelf life, and a limited working life, and that cold cranking working life diminishes even faster in cold climates. I'm old school - if you buy the recommended battery - your buying a loser, but your $$$ keep the factories open manufacturing replacements.
I'm in the UK but my puter tells me you are close to a chance of snow, so at a temp of 3 °C and falling over the next several months, and battery older than 3 [less capable of producing CCA's] years, with a """ slow sluggish """ crank suggests your battery is close to but not yet fit for purpose, and this in a vehicle that has a high parasitic [ignition off] load.
#7
battery specs
Being iffy either way, I had my mechanic friend do a load test which showed the results of: "battery good, recharge". He suggested a trickle charge for 8 hrs until I reminded him the van was a 2008 when he asked me and he then said "Oh, I would replace it then". He doesn't sell batteries and knows I do most work myself so I know he's honest to a fault and always has been (we've been friends since we were kids).
Based on the info from him and you guys, etc, I decided that since winter was coming here in the northeast, the battery was acting a bit sluggish before the maplight drain, and the fact that it is approaching it's 5th birthday, that the investment in a new one (the wife and kids are in it the most) was good insurance for a happy winter with the family! I got a factory replacement 600 CC, 6 yr warr, for less than $100 with my son and I installing. Decent deal. Thanks for all the info and advice.
Lou
Based on the info from him and you guys, etc, I decided that since winter was coming here in the northeast, the battery was acting a bit sluggish before the maplight drain, and the fact that it is approaching it's 5th birthday, that the investment in a new one (the wife and kids are in it the most) was good insurance for a happy winter with the family! I got a factory replacement 600 CC, 6 yr warr, for less than $100 with my son and I installing. Decent deal. Thanks for all the info and advice.
Lou
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