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Brake backing plate repair

  #1  
Old 04-03-2019, 12:30 PM
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Default Brake backing plate repair

So earlier this year my parking brakes seized up and got so locked/rusted that I can to cut the components out. Ideally, I don't want to be driving around without an emergency brake, so I'd like to install new hardware. However, the original hardware failed due to rust issues involving the brake backing plate. One of the holes that holds in a component (one of the pin/springs) rusted open, so that the pin will pass through it, instead of being held in by it. For anyone who's worked on the e-brakes, or any drum brake on just about any car, you should have an idea of what I'm talking about (sorry, no pictures at the moment). Anyway, I figured I'd replace the brake backing plates, since I have to get all the way back there to replace the parking brake level anyway. It turns out, though, that these backing plates are fairly expensive. Cheapest I could find will run me about $170 with shipping (most places are $300-$700). So I was wondering, could I repair the hole with a Steel Stik, or similar epoxy? I would sand the area, cover the entire hole and surrounding surface with epoxy from both sides, then dremel down the raised surface a little (on the hardware side) and drill a new hole. Thing is, I haven't worked with epoxy's much. Despite all the assurances of them being harder than steel, etc, and the fact that it will not be subjected to a lot of force, I'm still a little weary of doing this. It would save me a ton of money, but I don't want the pin coming loose and finding myself with a stuck e-brake again. Thought and comments appreciated.

Thank you.
 
  #2  
Old 04-03-2019, 02:34 PM
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UK but same issue [es] post from 13/14 my friend. The medieval 'top hat' design for the parking brake is a well known American phenomena. UK have hand-brakes that do work moving at speed except GV's .. .. which are properly described as parking [[b]apply after stopping] brake.

Best of luck.
 
  #3  
Old 04-03-2019, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by QinteQ View Post
UK but same issue [es] post from 13/14 my friend. The medieval 'top hat' design for the parking brake is a well known American phenomena. UK have hand-brakes that do work moving at speed except GV's .. .. which are properly described as parking [[b]apply after stopping] brake.

Best of luck.
Thanks for the reply. I took a look at the thread you linked to, but it appears to be a conversation about brake pads and parking brake cables. I'm afraid I don't see the connection between my issue/question and the one in that thread. Could you elaborate?
 
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Old 04-03-2019, 05:44 PM
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Because I sent a general not specific reply.

IMO Araldite, Two Pack or Molecular Metal are all excellent but each / all will need bright clean steel to 'bond' to. If bright clean steel is there a "filed out" nut braised onto the rear of the back plate would be a better stronger repair.

You might have missed the link to a small parts bag which is the solution once the entry point is satisfactorily repaired.
 
  #5  
Old 04-04-2019, 07:20 AM
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Had it on my first Voyager, it was one of the things on my list for reasons to get rid of it.
As you say, expensive (83 in the UK back then) and the side I needed wasn't available at that time anyway.
If I had been going to keep the GV, my plan was to try and get a good one from a breaker and rustproof/treat before fitting.
 
  #6  
Old 04-04-2019, 08:19 AM
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Alright chaps, I had this on my GV last time around (Still missing it so much!)
I did a post on it a while ago:
Andy Brown's blog: Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8CRD rear drum backing plate

What you want to look for are drum/pad pins from other vehicles, some have the slotted washer that fits at the back of the plate, in my case these worked a treat and meant that in future I'd not have the same issue. Hopefully that'll point you in the right direction.
 
  #7  
Old 04-04-2019, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotsman4th View Post
Had it on my first Voyager, it was one of the things on my list for reasons to get rid of it.
As you say, expensive (83 in the UK back then) and the side I needed wasn't available at that time anyway.
If I had been going to keep the GV, my plan was to try and get a good one from a breaker and rustproof/treat before fitting.
Agreed. Always the best Q&D repair. Bench it, get a twisted wire brush on it, get anti-rust on it and finish with hammerite or whatever.
 
  #8  
Old 04-04-2019, 08:31 AM
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I've considered this situation(if ever the need comes for mine). IF the metal around the back side of the backing plate is still sound, I will drill through from the shoe side and then measure length of needed pin length and use the more traditional style of drum brake pins/springs/ retainers found on drum brake vehicles. Many parts stores here sell "pin/spring/keepers" seperately from complete hardware kits. It may take a little application searching, but a quick and easy "out" for the situation.
 
  #9  
Old 04-04-2019, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by andyb2000 View Post
Alright chaps, I had this on my GV last time around (Still missing it so much!)
I did a post on it a while ago:
Andy Brown's blog: Chrysler Grand Voyager 2.8CRD rear drum backing plate

What you want to look for are drum/pad pins from other vehicles, some have the slotted washer that fits at the back of the plate, in my case these worked a treat and meant that in future I'd not have the same issue. Hopefully that'll point you in the right direction.
This is VERY helpful information. I'll take a look around to see if I can find this hardware. Sadly, I think I still need to remove the backing plate/hub to install the new parking brake lever. The old one was so rusted up I had to cut it out. Still, saving nearly $200 by using a few bucks worth of different equipment is still a HUGE win. I'll post again if it works, though I may not get to it for a few weeks.

Thanks everyone for the comments. I now have a "Plan A" and "Plan B" to work on before resorting to new parts.
 
  #10  
Old 04-07-2019, 03:49 PM
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My shoes are held to the backing plates with machine screws with a small washer under the head to stop them going through the rusty holes. The original springs are also used of course.
 
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