The quickest way to kill discs in any country in the world is with a car wash lance, home based Karcher or a commercial one in a valeting place. Just a couple of seconds squirt with that volume of cold water on to a hot rotor and they are 'warpo' you will be replacing them several times a year, each year.

 

Here is a thought, Some people drive with two feet. For safety you should only drive with one foot, that way in a panic stop your reflexes are to mash down the brake. if you drive with two feet, your reflex will be to mash down both feet. (gas and brake) Anyway... You can often spot these people as while they are driving, the brake lights are on as they drive down the freeway. If you drive with both feet, you may be inadvertently resting your foot on the brake and wearing out the pads and rotors.

 

Welll said! These people are Very easy to spot and it personally drives me crazy when its a new Chrysler product because they are usually the first to complain to the dealer about brake "defects" and want Chrysler to pay for the replacement brakes.

 

If everything checks out and you are not 2 footing it, I would install cross drilled rotors on it. They dissipate the heat so much faster and resist the warping. I was having this same issue on my pacifica and my Dakota and the drilled rotors solved the problem. My sebring has never had this issue so I leave stock rotors on it!

 

An easy way to check for brake-bind (a possibility if your brakes seem to get hot very quickly) is to slip into neutral as you come to a stop and see if your vehicle seems to "roll" very easily forward as you lift of the brake pedal. You can do this as you are driving. The vehicle should move forward on its own on even the slightest gradient. My GV does this readily. My previous car, an S-type Jaguar had electric parking brake and the model was notorious for brake-bind.

Another clue for brake-bind is a rather poor fuel consumption for the kind of running you do.

If it looks like you have brake-bind, examine the free travel of the brake caliper pistons in their cylinders; I use a big screwdriver for this to lever the pistons back into their cylinders. They should go back in smoothly and without any rough spots. If you feel rough spots, there will be corrosion causing this. On the GV., the handbrake system on the rear drums is so wierd brake bind and hot rear wheels are common along with the poor fuel consumption.
Incidentally, I have driven my automatics "two-feet style" for the last 35 years or so, same as most americans. It's never been a problem for me -- but then I CAN control my feet! This one-foot idea comes from people who are not used to driving an autobox car.

Hope this helps.

Leedsman.

 

YEH!avdhulst is correct on wheel spin,front wheel drive will have more resistance(axles and transaxle in neutral)you can feel and hear if calipers are binding.also there is no pressure setting for break pads or calipers!i think the dealer is doing what they do(DEAL)maybe calipers were defective and its cheaper to replace pads n rotors!goggs right on the money hope this helps and you find an honest reasonable mechanic!

 

It would solve the question whether they are warped or have attained metallic pickup from the pads if you could get the disc/discs clocked with a dial gauge.

 

The problems was the Disc can't handle such temperature.

When replace with new drilled & slotted rotor disc (bought from Amazon for $200 for Front & Rear) then problems solved as those drilled or hole will cool down the disc and prevent it from warp.

FYI, you can buy it directly from MAX manufacture for cheaper price than Amazon. Do not buy the one with pad as their pad is very cheap and dusty. Just buy the rotor.

Here is the link to MAX: MaxBrakes.com - Brake Rotors, Brake Pads, Brake Drum, Brake Shoes

It has been more than a year with new drilled rotor, I don't have any more vibrate when apply break.

$200 will solve all of this problems

 

Key500 -- excellent work and advice. Logical and meets with my own pre-knowlege. Keeping the temperature of cast iron brake discs down is of major importance. As is not spraying cold water on them* (Qinteq).
Good on yer.

Leedsman.
* Cast iron brake discs are not pure iron, there is a certain amount of carbon in them. If you spray cold water on them while hot, you will alter their "temper" making them much harder. And if you spray cold water on a hot disc randomly (as opposed to the proper way of a very rapid dunking in cold water) the hardening will also be random. The co-efficient of friction will then vary throughout the disc. making it perform badly. Some makers arrange cooling air from forward motion to cool the front discs (as they do most of the work). Some even have little electric fans for this purpose.

 

I have same the same problem "Car vibrates / shaking when braking", however my T&C 2010 does this because rear dirver side break does not work .Replace pads and disc , works for 10-15 miles and then I have same issue again.It's driving me crazy.Disc I cold when I check tempreture after driving, handbreak works.