cold battery sensor
#2
09-29-2017, 06:18 AM
Greetings,
While none of my Vans have had this feature(I take that it is part of a wrap around the battery). I have a Neon with that item, and have not needed to disassemble it, just lifted the whole unit off to be able to remove the battery.Not certain that the wire plug is to come off the wrap, follow the wires and see if there is a line connector on the other end.
While none of my Vans have had this feature(I take that it is part of a wrap around the battery). I have a Neon with that item, and have not needed to disassemble it, just lifted the whole unit off to be able to remove the battery.Not certain that the wire plug is to come off the wrap, follow the wires and see if there is a line connector on the other end.
#4
10-02-2017, 10:07 AM
Thanks I've read that one QinteQ but it does not say how to disconect it. Ive checked the voltage and the brown wire is 2.85v and the blue is 0v and the battery is recieveing 13.54v from the alternator.
Last edited by Bee; 10-02-2017 at 10:40 AM.
#5
10-02-2017, 02:26 PM
13+ is not good for a CRD in a UK winter. 14 + is really needed, if you do the batteryMOD you will find that the summer charge rate is 13 + but during the winter it will draw 14 + and be a much happier battery for cold starts.
14.4 used to be the old[er] charge rate. The current thinking of 13.8 is generally accepted battery charge rate. To me that's too low, A cell on our lead acid starts to charge @ 2.25 x by our 6 cells is 13.8 in most/many cases that's gonna take one hell of a long time to replace just one winters morning. I and many others have proven 13 + it to be too low but its your decision.
An easy MOD The ButtonMod takes10 minutes, safe as houses costs less than a quid and delivers 14,2[ish] well inside the 14.5+ gassing safety and a much reduced re-charge time. Do the lagging trick and your quicker 1/2 way heater gauge will mean you will be much warmer quicker and your car will return a better MPG because its a more efficient combustion.
What do you hope to achieve by disconnecting it ?
14.4 used to be the old[er] charge rate. The current thinking of 13.8 is generally accepted battery charge rate. To me that's too low, A cell on our lead acid starts to charge @ 2.25 x by our 6 cells is 13.8 in most/many cases that's gonna take one hell of a long time to replace just one winters morning. I and many others have proven 13 + it to be too low but its your decision.
An easy MOD The ButtonMod takes10 minutes, safe as houses costs less than a quid and delivers 14,2[ish] well inside the 14.5+ gassing safety and a much reduced re-charge time. Do the lagging trick and your quicker 1/2 way heater gauge will mean you will be much warmer quicker and your car will return a better MPG because its a more efficient combustion.
How do I disconnect the cold battery sensor ?
#6
10-03-2017, 01:47 AM
Thanks for the help. I thought I needed to disconect it. lol
So i cut the lead and use a block from the wire to the resitor then from the other side of the resistor I use a block to the wire.
Sorry if I seem a bit thick. I am lol
Adrian
So i cut the lead and use a block from the wire to the resitor then from the other side of the resistor I use a block to the wire.
Sorry if I seem a bit thick. I am lol
Adrian
Last edited by Bee; 10-03-2017 at 01:54 AM.
#7
10-03-2017, 09:32 AM
HiYa Bee,
HowTo :
Exactly what you said in #6 one wire has voltage [actually converts it into Ω for the BCM instruction] cut it and solder/sleeve or just chokkie it back into continuity, and you are done.
Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.
The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage will of course damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :
- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A
- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]
- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A
- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]
Its clearly not linear so :
- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300%
You can see then that the previous 14 +v petrol was changed to a 13 +v diesel. So an easy electric spark CCA start became a very much harder diesel compression CCA leading to a much higher battery replenishment need. This is ok if you have a 60 minute each way trip per day but if its school run or short trips in the winter its a relentless undercharging UK scenario.
In the original batteryMOD I used a Maplins 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt as I thought it would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish], although I did think [but not know without testing] it would be safe a little higher.
Tested in the 1st year I achieved the 14 +v I wanted
I thought at the time 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I was happy if I to get to the extra to 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !
So the :
- 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me 13.9 but the 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me the 14.4 I wanted
- tested @ x2 15 minute runs per week the BCM auto-moderates the 13 +v / 14 +v summer + winter charge rate
- back to 'happy old school days' charging rates
- 09p from Maplins
Well pleased ! Best of luck Bee.
HowTo :
Exactly what you said in #6 one wire has voltage [actually converts it into Ω for the BCM instruction] cut it and solder/sleeve or just chokkie it back into continuity, and you are done.
Lifestyle : Two 15 minutes trips once a week.
The higher the voltage applied, the faster the battery will charge, charging at too high a voltage will of course damage your battery. A simple 100Ah open lead acid battery and a 180A charger connected to the battery discharged to 50% :
- @ 50% full @ 13.2V current was 35A
- @ 50% full @ 14,8V current was 160A [improvement of 457%]
- @ 75% full @ 13.2V current was 1A
- @ 75% full @ 14.8V current was 60A [improvement of 6000%]
Its clearly not linear so :
- two 15 minute periods @ 13.2V is 2 x 15 minute @ 21Ah, compared to ;
- two 15 minute periods @ 14.4V is 2 x 15 minute @ 60Ah, is an improvement of about 300%
You can see then that the previous 14 +v petrol was changed to a 13 +v diesel. So an easy electric spark CCA start became a very much harder diesel compression CCA leading to a much higher battery replenishment need. This is ok if you have a 60 minute each way trip per day but if its school run or short trips in the winter its a relentless undercharging UK scenario.
In the original batteryMOD I used a Maplins 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt as I thought it would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish], although I did think [but not know without testing] it would be safe a little higher.
Tested in the 1st year I achieved the 14 +v I wanted
I thought at the time 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt would be a goodish guesstimate for keeping it under the 14.6[ish] although I'm sure it would be safe a little higher. I was happy if I to get to the extra to 14.4 * Tested .... smack on 14.4-6 winter and 14+ summer over a 6 month period steady across the REV range. This will better recover the winter loss more quickly. Of course in the summer the ALT output will be limited by the lower battery replenishment needs Well pleased !
So the :
- 33K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me 13.9 but the 22K Ω @ 1/2 watt gave me the 14.4 I wanted
- tested @ x2 15 minute runs per week the BCM auto-moderates the 13 +v / 14 +v summer + winter charge rate
- back to 'happy old school days' charging rates
- 09p from Maplins
Well pleased ! Best of luck Bee.