Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country The first and foremost name in minivans leading the class since their inception in the 1980s
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

DRB II Tool!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-20-2016, 10:00 AM
Vonhofinvule's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: County Durham, UK
Posts: 257
Default DRB II Tool!

Okay so I've just fitted new brake pipes to the front of my 98 Grand Voyager and came to bleed them and have been unable to. Simply no fluid reaching the brake callipers.

So was over of the Jeep forum and a guy over there was having the same issue with a Grand Cherokee and somebody said you have to have a DRB II Scan tool connected before you can bleed the brakes.

So my question is has anyone ran into this before and is there a work around because the only ones I'm finding are very expensive as I have to order one from the states!

Cheers.
 
  #2  
Old 03-20-2016, 03:36 PM
goggs's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Dumfries....
Posts: 1,782
Default

Something doesn't sound right here...Are you trying to bleed it with ignition on. Or with the brake pedal. Surely if you were to fit a pressure self bleeder at the fluid tank, ignition off, the fluid would emerge at the calipers. Have heard of people not bleeding at all, or continuous bubbles and its all been down to not forcing the fluid down quickly enough.
 
  #3  
Old 03-21-2016, 04:28 AM
Vonhofinvule's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: County Durham, UK
Posts: 257
Default

I've tried ignition on and off, even with the engine running. Tried a pressure bleeder and a vacuum bleeder, which worked fine on the rear when I didn't them a year or two back but nothing.

Removed the pipes just to make sure I hadn't messes something up and they were fine.

Eventually I tried to back bleed pushing fluid into the calliper and back up through the pipes and that didn't even work.

Eventually I called a friend in the US, and he went around to AutoZone and they confirmed that you can't bleed the front brakes on many Chrysler/Jeep products without a DRB II Tool!

Apparently when you open the system and allow air to reach the ABS module it closes the valves to protect itself, thus it has to be connected to the tool in-order to re-open them and cycle the fluid!


Thank you Chrysler!
 

Last edited by Vonhofinvule; 03-21-2016 at 04:38 AM.
  #4  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:17 AM
goggs's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Dumfries....
Posts: 1,782
Default

Thats a first to me...It must be the ABS system that is stopping the fluid getting through...By the way did you allow air to get in the system while doing the repairs. Did you not clamp the fluid hoses at the brakes. This maybe crucial for anyone else working in front brakes.
 
  #5  
Old 03-21-2016, 08:26 AM
QinteQ's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 1,611
Default

I'll have a look for this later and yes, on this early model [I've read somewhere - no actual experience at all] one of two over-engineered software controlled valves needed to be switched to open before it works. Hmmmmm [long shot] I wonder if it would [defalt to open] work with the battery & CAP disconnected !
 
  #6  
Old 03-21-2016, 11:44 AM
Vonhofinvule's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: County Durham, UK
Posts: 257
Default

Hi Goggs, everything from the ABS module has been removed. This all began when I noticed a few small drops of brake fluid on the drive. One of the callipers was seeping, so I had a couple that I'd picked up last year and, also had a brake pipe adviser on my MOT so figured it would be a good time to sort it all out. Those damned good ideas, guaranteed to get you into trouble!

QinteQ, thats a good idea. I'll try that tomorrow when I have more time.

However something worth noting for anybody else who may have to do this at some point. Over on the Jeep forum a couple of ther guys have said if you wedge down the brake pedal when you crack open the system and leave it there until you're ready to bleed it solves the issue!
 
  #7  
Old 03-21-2016, 01:50 PM
dieselvoyager's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Denmark
Posts: 163
Default

Some times the bracket on front brake hose (the one att. to front stut) get's rusty (rust between bracket and hose) it can block the hose total and you can't bleed it. The breake fluid is suppose to run free from master cylinder to the caliber if not you got a problem.

Take a small crowbar and make more room for the hose.Work out the rust the hose must be able to move in the bracket.

I have heard about the bleed problem before but never experince my self and steel pipe get very rusty around here we change them all the time to copper. Be aware the pipe from abs block to the rear get rusty there the flex hose is press to the pipe.
 
  #8  
Old 03-22-2016, 07:07 AM
Vonhofinvule's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: County Durham, UK
Posts: 257
Default

Hi Dieselvoyager, steel brake lines don't last too long here either. Our roads are heavily salted during the winter, so replacing them on older vehicles is the norm. However, I have been trying a few things this morning, disconnected the pipes from the ABS module and I can pump fluid through without issue, its just not passing through the ABS module. I however have someone calling later today, he has and ABS scanning tool which can reset the system so we are hoping that it will work on my van.

Unfortunately, if not this could spell the end for the old girl. Having it transported to a dealer simply isn't realistic from a cost standpoint.
 
  #9  
Old 03-23-2016, 05:10 AM
dieselvoyager's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Denmark
Posts: 163
Default

Vonhofinvule : Is your model with traction control ?
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-2016, 09:52 AM
Vonhofinvule's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: County Durham, UK
Posts: 257
Default

No just ABS!
 


Quick Reply: DRB II Tool!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:50 AM.