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Engine dying/no acceleration

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  #1  
Old 03-15-2009, 11:36 AM
croatian dodge's Avatar
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Post Engine dying/no acceleration

I have a problem with my Voyager 2.5TD from 1993, it has a hard time starting and when it does there is a blue cloud coming out of the exhaust. When the engine is warm it has no problem starting but the blue cloud is still there, smaller though. And just today something else happened, while driving when i pushed the gas peddle it didnt respond, after few seconds the engine died. I was able to start it again but with some trouble. I was able to drive further but somehow had a feeling it is not responding to gas peddle good. And then upon stopping, it was running a bit but then died. I dont know if it is of relevance but i have noticed that it is heating up faster then usual. PLs help thanx!
 
  #2  
Old 03-15-2009, 08:02 PM
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Sounds like a blown head gasket. Have the compression checked.
 
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Old 03-15-2009, 08:14 PM
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i was thinking piston rings but when u said heat i immidately thought head gaskets
 
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Old 03-16-2009, 02:56 PM
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Sounds like fuel starvation when was the fuel filter last changed? 93 is a bit before my time but had a 97 with a similar fault last week and that had a fault code of timing solenoid as it needs fuel pressure to control the timing. Have you had it checked for any fault codes? Could use a hand pump or something like it to check there is no restriction with the fuel system.
The Bosch fuel pump will also have a control valve in the outlet/return (top) of the pump to control pressure in the pump. If this is faulty all the fuel will go straight back to the tank, so make sure this is not sticking and not maintaining pressure in the pump.
As for getting hotter some pressure is normal but wouldn’t expect any or much over night. Are you loosing any water? These engines do like to crack heads if they get hot so expect more then just head gasket if it is using water but you have no external leak.
 
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Old 03-17-2009, 02:52 AM
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I would have thought a head gasket would have produced white smoke?? Blue smoke is typically indicative of oil. Source of this would surely be either a broken ring which might explain the hard starting e.g. low compression or valve stem seals but these should only produce a puff on starting.

Also if head gasket and if it were that bad that it was leaching water into the combustion chamber I would have thought the car would be boiling over big time in a very short space of time??
 
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Old 03-17-2009, 04:58 PM
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hey guys, tx for your input. As Merlin suggested i have changed the fuel filter, it was totally clogged up. I try to start the car with the new filter but it didn't. End up draining the battery, i was able to start it with being pulled by another car. The engine started but rpm's didnt go over 800. When i pressed the gas peddle it didnt react at all, i kept pumping it up but nothing at all.The engine died then.We did the whole procedure one more time and the same thing again. What should i do? Here they dont have Chrysler garage, i was lucky to find a filter.
 
  #7  
Old 03-18-2009, 03:43 PM
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idk how much the repair cost would be but u might have to go to the closest repair shop and they will order whatever is needed and put it on for you
 
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Old 03-18-2009, 03:49 PM
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Ok, now I would disconnect the pipe from the fuel filter and place it in a can of fuel and try and start it. If it starts then recheck the fuel delivery system (Recheck the fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel tank) If it doesn’t start then check see if it is sucking fuel from the can? If it’s not check the fuel stop solenoid (on the pump 1 wire going to it) should click when ignition is on, if doesn’t click check for 12volts to it. If it does click still best to remove it make sure the plunger inside will move all the way in when it’s activated (will need to give it a live and a ground to bench test it).
Hope this is not getting too technical are you a mechanic yourself or are you passing this on to your mechanic? Ask if you need me to explain better.
 
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:01 PM
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Guys i was able to get it working. I am not a mechanic but had so many problems with this van that i got into it and am trying to get to know it more and stuff i can do myself i try to do it. The problem was in a primary pumpe.Since this car was not a diesel to start with (it was a petrol engine,diesel was put in after) the fuel filter was in a really hard to get to place. And while trying to take it off i ended up (unknowingly) unscrewing the primary pump, which upon puting the new filter on, i didnt screw all the way in so the air was coming in that way. Sorry guys, i am new at this but am learning. So that is fixed. One question,one of you mentioned about the possible head gasket cracked. How can i find that out? Do i have to take it to the mechanic or is there are a simple way to obtain the info? Also a question for Merlin, do you mind to expaund on how to check the solenoid?
 
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:47 PM
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Hi
The heads cracked to start with
Best to test when worm, as that is when the cracks will open up so take care not to get burnt. There is a water way down the back of the head connecting all 4 heads held on by small 8mm bolts (from memory) remove this and run the engine keeping the water topped up and look for bubbles in the water opposite each head (don’t run for too long). The one with bubbles is the one with a problem be it a cracked head or head gasket. You then me remove the head and check the gasket if no obvious signs of failure of the gasket then most likely that head is cracked.
This is only if you are using a lot of water and no external leaks and you have not said you are. If only blue smoke are you using a lot of oil?
As for the stop solenoid
It’s just a 12v electro magnet. 12volts to the wire in the top and it gets a ground/earth by the engine. This creates an electro magnetic field that pulls the plunger that is in the centre of the solenoid off it’s stop and then will let fuel flow into the pump. There is a spring behind it that closes it when no voltage is applied. If the magnetic field is weak due to low voltage to it or the solenoid itself shorted it will not release properly. Same can be said if the plunger is worn and jams. If you get a good click from it this is a good sign it is working correctly as the click is the plunger hitting the top of the solenoid. If you decide to remove and test don’t loose the plunger or spring as there is nothing holding it in to the solenoid. Put it back without the plunger you will not be able to turn it off, you will have to stall it or block the fuel.
Are you still loosing power or is it ok now with the fuel filter change?
Don’t really like giving this much info to someone that is not a mechanic so please if you are unsure take it to a mechanic.
 


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