Grand Voyager 2005 CRD ABS Sensors I THINK....!
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 55
From: Sheffield UK
Grand Voyager 2005 CRD ABS Sensors I THINK....!
Hi Guys
Good to be back, however I need some advice. Just bought myself another Grand Voyager after a short break. I have however found that the TRAC OFF light is permanently lit. Now I know from previous posts on here that this is 9 times out of 10 an ABS sensor issue. However the ABS light is not on WHY .....?
I know that I can get 2 new sensors from ebay for around £50 but is there a way to test the current sensors with out an expensive machine to do the job. A friend has said you can use a multimeter but I'm not very ofae with using a multimeter
any suggestions I've used search but most are to do with replacing the sensors not understanding why its not working
One other thing I'd like to add is, I have also seen that you can buy new ABS ring for the drive shafts. But just how easy are these to replace? Do they Screw on or push on? and is it easy to get the old ones off
Good to be back, however I need some advice. Just bought myself another Grand Voyager after a short break. I have however found that the TRAC OFF light is permanently lit. Now I know from previous posts on here that this is 9 times out of 10 an ABS sensor issue. However the ABS light is not on WHY .....?
I know that I can get 2 new sensors from ebay for around £50 but is there a way to test the current sensors with out an expensive machine to do the job. A friend has said you can use a multimeter but I'm not very ofae with using a multimeter
any suggestions I've used search but most are to do with replacing the sensors not understanding why its not working
One other thing I'd like to add is, I have also seen that you can buy new ABS ring for the drive shafts. But just how easy are these to replace? Do they Screw on or push on? and is it easy to get the old ones off
Last edited by TomC; Oct 29, 2017 at 05:58 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 55
From: Sheffield UK
Hi Guys
Good to be back, however I need some advice. Just bought myself another Grand Voyager after a short break. I have however found that the TRAC OFF light is permanently lit. Now I know from previous posts on here that this is 9 times out of 10 an ABS sensor issue. However the ABS light is not on WHY .....?
I know that I can get 2 new sensors from ebay for around £50 but is there a way to test the current sensors with out an expensive machine to do the job. A friend has said you can use a multimeter but I'm not very ofae with using a multimeter
any suggestions I've used search but most are to do with replacing the sensors not understanding why its not working
One other thing I'd like to add is, I have also seen that you can buy new ABS ring for the drive shafts. But just how easy are these to replace? Do they Screw on or push on? and is it easy to get the old ones off
Good to be back, however I need some advice. Just bought myself another Grand Voyager after a short break. I have however found that the TRAC OFF light is permanently lit. Now I know from previous posts on here that this is 9 times out of 10 an ABS sensor issue. However the ABS light is not on WHY .....?
I know that I can get 2 new sensors from ebay for around £50 but is there a way to test the current sensors with out an expensive machine to do the job. A friend has said you can use a multimeter but I'm not very ofae with using a multimeter
any suggestions I've used search but most are to do with replacing the sensors not understanding why its not working
One other thing I'd like to add is, I have also seen that you can buy new ABS ring for the drive shafts. But just how easy are these to replace? Do they Screw on or push on? and is it easy to get the old ones off
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 356
From: North-East, UK
OK, this is one I'm used to, I've had TRAC OFF lit up on mine for a while and not got round to fully sorting.
ABS light as Scotsman4th says should illuminate when ignition first goes on and gives a dial/indicators check so that should help.
To confirm, mine does NOT have ABS light lit, just TRAC OFF same as yours, and mine appears to be a faulty front right wheel speed sensor which is where I think your train of thought currently is? (PS: I'm assuming you don't have access to a diagnostic scanner, as that will tell you which side, what sensor, etc. If you're in the North-East drop me a message as I'd be happy to do a read thanks to a kind fella QinteQ who's helped me out in the past and lent me a scanner)
What I can confirm, is if you disconnect the sensor totally you DO get a brake warning light on too, so that can test to see what is going wrong.
I replaced my front right sensor as wiring was damaged from previous owner, I then snapped the nut in the housing (Argh!) so until I had the tools and time to do it left the sensor off, and sure enough you get TRAC OFF AND the BRAKE warning light (Still no ABS light, which makes sense when you think about it, the ABS module and equipment is testing, just no signal will get into the ABS to trigger it from the wheel speed sensors).
To test the speed sensor you need a multimeter, it's relatively easy to do. Set it first to continuity (the beep option) and unplug the sensor (You can get to the sensor connector it's hidden slightly behind the plastic cover to the front of the wheel arch, it slides in and out of the bulkhead). Touch the probes onto the two metal pins shown (make sure on the abs sensor end not the car end!) and you should get continuity. If it's totally open circuit (No beep and no value) then it's an open circuit and totally dead. If you do get a signal then onto the next test!
This test will show that the hall effect sensor is working and generating readings, this generates a low AC voltage when the wheel hub is spun, so switch the meter to AC and to a low voltage setting (less than 20v so 12v would be fine). Then hold the probes on and spin the wheel/hub (Tricky! Get somebody to help!), you should see a reading as the wheel spins then down to 0 again.
If you get a reading then the sensor appears to be working. If you don't then it's either the toothed ring badly corroded and damaged so not giving a good reading, or the sensor itself is broken so order a new one.
Changing the toothed ring I think involves taking the hub/driveshaft off the wheel hub but I could be mistaken here.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
ABS light as Scotsman4th says should illuminate when ignition first goes on and gives a dial/indicators check so that should help.
To confirm, mine does NOT have ABS light lit, just TRAC OFF same as yours, and mine appears to be a faulty front right wheel speed sensor which is where I think your train of thought currently is? (PS: I'm assuming you don't have access to a diagnostic scanner, as that will tell you which side, what sensor, etc. If you're in the North-East drop me a message as I'd be happy to do a read thanks to a kind fella QinteQ who's helped me out in the past and lent me a scanner)
What I can confirm, is if you disconnect the sensor totally you DO get a brake warning light on too, so that can test to see what is going wrong.
I replaced my front right sensor as wiring was damaged from previous owner, I then snapped the nut in the housing (Argh!) so until I had the tools and time to do it left the sensor off, and sure enough you get TRAC OFF AND the BRAKE warning light (Still no ABS light, which makes sense when you think about it, the ABS module and equipment is testing, just no signal will get into the ABS to trigger it from the wheel speed sensors).
To test the speed sensor you need a multimeter, it's relatively easy to do. Set it first to continuity (the beep option) and unplug the sensor (You can get to the sensor connector it's hidden slightly behind the plastic cover to the front of the wheel arch, it slides in and out of the bulkhead). Touch the probes onto the two metal pins shown (make sure on the abs sensor end not the car end!) and you should get continuity. If it's totally open circuit (No beep and no value) then it's an open circuit and totally dead. If you do get a signal then onto the next test!
This test will show that the hall effect sensor is working and generating readings, this generates a low AC voltage when the wheel hub is spun, so switch the meter to AC and to a low voltage setting (less than 20v so 12v would be fine). Then hold the probes on and spin the wheel/hub (Tricky! Get somebody to help!), you should see a reading as the wheel spins then down to 0 again.
If you get a reading then the sensor appears to be working. If you don't then it's either the toothed ring badly corroded and damaged so not giving a good reading, or the sensor itself is broken so order a new one.
Changing the toothed ring I think involves taking the hub/driveshaft off the wheel hub but I could be mistaken here.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 55
From: Sheffield UK
OK, this is one I'm used to, I've had TRAC OFF lit up on mine for a while and not got round to fully sorting.
ABS light as Scotsman4th says should illuminate when ignition first goes on and gives a dial/indicators check so that should help.
To confirm, mine does NOT have ABS light lit, just TRAC OFF same as yours, and mine appears to be a faulty front right wheel speed sensor which is where I think your train of thought currently is? (PS: I'm assuming you don't have access to a diagnostic scanner, as that will tell you which side, what sensor, etc. If you're in the North-East drop me a message as I'd be happy to do a read thanks to a kind fella QinteQ who's helped me out in the past and lent me a scanner)
What I can confirm, is if you disconnect the sensor totally you DO get a brake warning light on too, so that can test to see what is going wrong.
I replaced my front right sensor as wiring was damaged from previous owner, I then snapped the nut in the housing (Argh!) so until I had the tools and time to do it left the sensor off, and sure enough you get TRAC OFF AND the BRAKE warning light (Still no ABS light, which makes sense when you think about it, the ABS module and equipment is testing, just no signal will get into the ABS to trigger it from the wheel speed sensors).
To test the speed sensor you need a multimeter, it's relatively easy to do. Set it first to continuity (the beep option) and unplug the sensor (You can get to the sensor connector it's hidden slightly behind the plastic cover to the front of the wheel arch, it slides in and out of the bulkhead). Touch the probes onto the two metal pins shown (make sure on the abs sensor end not the car end!) and you should get continuity. If it's totally open circuit (No beep and no value) then it's an open circuit and totally dead. If you do get a signal then onto the next test!
This test will show that the hall effect sensor is working and generating readings, this generates a low AC voltage when the wheel hub is spun, so switch the meter to AC and to a low voltage setting (less than 20v so 12v would be fine). Then hold the probes on and spin the wheel/hub (Tricky! Get somebody to help!), you should see a reading as the wheel spins then down to 0 again.
If you get a reading then the sensor appears to be working. If you don't then it's either the toothed ring badly corroded and damaged so not giving a good reading, or the sensor itself is broken so order a new one.
Changing the toothed ring I think involves taking the hub/driveshaft off the wheel hub but I could be mistaken here.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
ABS light as Scotsman4th says should illuminate when ignition first goes on and gives a dial/indicators check so that should help.
To confirm, mine does NOT have ABS light lit, just TRAC OFF same as yours, and mine appears to be a faulty front right wheel speed sensor which is where I think your train of thought currently is? (PS: I'm assuming you don't have access to a diagnostic scanner, as that will tell you which side, what sensor, etc. If you're in the North-East drop me a message as I'd be happy to do a read thanks to a kind fella QinteQ who's helped me out in the past and lent me a scanner)
What I can confirm, is if you disconnect the sensor totally you DO get a brake warning light on too, so that can test to see what is going wrong.
I replaced my front right sensor as wiring was damaged from previous owner, I then snapped the nut in the housing (Argh!) so until I had the tools and time to do it left the sensor off, and sure enough you get TRAC OFF AND the BRAKE warning light (Still no ABS light, which makes sense when you think about it, the ABS module and equipment is testing, just no signal will get into the ABS to trigger it from the wheel speed sensors).
To test the speed sensor you need a multimeter, it's relatively easy to do. Set it first to continuity (the beep option) and unplug the sensor (You can get to the sensor connector it's hidden slightly behind the plastic cover to the front of the wheel arch, it slides in and out of the bulkhead). Touch the probes onto the two metal pins shown (make sure on the abs sensor end not the car end!) and you should get continuity. If it's totally open circuit (No beep and no value) then it's an open circuit and totally dead. If you do get a signal then onto the next test!
This test will show that the hall effect sensor is working and generating readings, this generates a low AC voltage when the wheel hub is spun, so switch the meter to AC and to a low voltage setting (less than 20v so 12v would be fine). Then hold the probes on and spin the wheel/hub (Tricky! Get somebody to help!), you should see a reading as the wheel spins then down to 0 again.
If you get a reading then the sensor appears to be working. If you don't then it's either the toothed ring badly corroded and damaged so not giving a good reading, or the sensor itself is broken so order a new one.
Changing the toothed ring I think involves taking the hub/driveshaft off the wheel hub but I could be mistaken here.
Good luck and let us know how you get on.
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