Hello.

I still have a Daimler-Chrysler Grand Voyager IV 3.3 LE from 2000 (according to the registration papers).
It stood for a few years, fell out because of the automatic gearbox.
If i can get that out, is it easy to fit new parts?
There were pieces of metal in the oil pan at the time.
Is it worth buying a used gearbox (~$600 and postage)?

It has the sill at the rear left in front of the rear wheel open until before the first sheet metal change of the sill, also a bit on the right, and the rubber mounts are cracked.
I found some old pictures.






















What does it look like, what cost price should I expect, and are there “sets” with all the important wear parts or bearings/rubber mounts?
The rubbers are very cracked. Can you replace all the rubbers/bearings if it is only standing on the wheels at the back (ramps)?
Or is there tension (mechanical) on some part so that this is not possible? That the rear wheels would have to be relieved.
At the moment, the rear is on ramps, and the front is free and jacked up high.

I used to be able to access OBD2 with an ELM 327 adapter (the small blue very common BT-OBD-2 connector) and I think Torque.
Strangely enough, that didn't work now. Although the plug still works on an Opel ("Vauxhaul" is the same) Meriva A from 2004.
It is also the same connector as back then.
I think there were some sensor displays, possibly a lambda sensor...

Of course, it still has to be worthwhile before you buy anything.
But the engine starts immediately and it has an LPG system with a tank in the spare wheel well.
The automobile club once estimated it at around $3900 in 2018 based on the data, if everything is OK (for its age).

Rust on the underbody and everything where there are bearings:
What is the best way to remove it?
Obviously it would be impractical to do this with a pigtail brush, Poly Strip Disc etc. (?).
Is sandblasting worthwhile? And if so, is a simple gun sufficient or at most a plastic bucket with hose and gun?
I don't really need an additional needle gun, or...
If parts are not easily accessible from all sides (is that the case), sandblasting would probably be the thing that gets everywhere.
And what is then applied? I would still have zinc spray, but I read that this would not be ideal.
Especially if you then put paint or underbody protection over it (should i?).

For welding:
Should it fit exactly, or is it better to overlap?
I read that overlapping is less professional, but it is probably easier.
But it can't be less good.
Too bad you're not allowed to glue and rivet...
I have read that Audi joins aluminum and steel in vehicles using glue and rivets.
But here there are technical inspections by technicians every two years so that you can drive the car for another two years.
And riveting is probably forbidden.
If you can see it ;-) .

Is it actually normal for the radiator to be unpressurized?
The cooling water tank is open, and if you add water, there is an overflow so that it runs onto the floor.

If you change the bearings, the two spring leaf buffers, and derust it without the bearings and protect it against rust, and the open areas are closed, was that it on the underbody?
I still have a sill plate here that is supposedly for the GV IV. It may be enough for both sides.
The edge of the hood at the front is also ruined. This could possibly be easily replaced with GF/resin.

And the headliner is hanging down completely.
I always get the advice on GF etc., spray adhesive.
But even then, when I mention that there is still a very delicate brownish foam-like thin layer on the thin fabric.
When you touch it, it dissolves into dust. I can't imagine sticking to it.
And then there's the alternative of putting something on it, as long as it's not too heavy (1cm carpet?).
Would it be strange or too heavy if I used 1cm thick carpet as a replacement headliner?


Thanks.