HELP...05 Town & Country-engine light-jerking at 3500 rpm-code P0016
#1
HELP...05 Town & Country-engine light-jerking at 3500 rpm-code P0016
HELP!! We have a 2005 Town & Country LX 3.3 V6. It has around 123K miles. Recently the check engine light came on and the van starts jerking/bucking at 3500rpm. We had also recently noticed a loss in acceleration. We did the key trick and got the code P0016.
What exactly does this mean and is it something that we can fix or should we take it to the dealership?
Not a lot of money so hoping for something we can fix!
Thanks!
What exactly does this mean and is it something that we can fix or should we take it to the dealership?
Not a lot of money so hoping for something we can fix!
Thanks!
#2
P0016-crankshaft/camshaft timing misalignment
possible causes
intermittent condition
checking intermittent cmp signal with lab
cmp wire harness inspection
tone wheel/pulse ring inspection
ckp wire harness inspection
tone wheel/pulse ring inspection
intermittent ckp signal
camshaft position sensor
crankshaft position sensor
possible causes
intermittent condition
checking intermittent cmp signal with lab
cmp wire harness inspection
tone wheel/pulse ring inspection
ckp wire harness inspection
tone wheel/pulse ring inspection
intermittent ckp signal
camshaft position sensor
crankshaft position sensor
#3
It means the crank and cam sensors are not in sync with each other. It could be the cam sensor OR crank sensor....OR the timing chain may have even jumped (which is very uncommon) I've also seen camshaft or crankshaft alignment pin shear off (also very uncommon). The only way to really know or get a lead on it is for someone to watch the scan tool readings of the 2 sensors to get an idea where the problem is. You could also have a broken flexplate (seen many times on earlier models but not on one as new as 2005 so far) which would make the crankshaft sensor read incorrectly, the pickup for the crank sensor is part of the flexplate BTW. Hopefully it's just one of the sensors. If it is make sure and do both of them because they ususally have about the same life span.
At least get an expert diagnostic on it. You can have it repaired anywhere.
At least get an expert diagnostic on it. You can have it repaired anywhere.
Last edited by TNtech; 10-21-2010 at 09:35 PM.
#5
I'm having the same issue with my Chrysler Pacifica 2005
I've however replaced timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, and both the cam sensor and crank sensor. I still get the P0016 code and the jerking above 3500rpm.
The one thing I do know is that if you have a P0016 code you PCM(computer) is not going to let you engine rpms exceed 3500rpm. This is because this code triggers what is called "limp in" mode. In other words your computer knows something is wrong with the car and wants you to take it very easy on it until you get it repaired and by limiting rpm its trying to keep you from damaging the engine more.
I would disconnect my battery ground first to reset the computer code and see if it goes away. If it reappears quickly it could be bad timing (belt slipped) or the sensors are bad(easy to replace). Since the sensors are easy and cheap ($20 each) do those first. All you need is a 10mm socket, standard screwdriver and a flashlight. IT you still have issue after that I would suspect your timing belt. When was timing belt or water pump changed? If it has been 100K miles or so you should get them done anyway as routine maintenance at the least.
There is only a few more possibilities for me to check to fix my issue.
1) Good oil change and flush AFTER I remove my new sensors and clean out the ports they bolt into- I hear gunk build up can mess with the sensor signal readings.
2) bad wiring to sensor- considering the wires for this are old and basically lay across the top of a hot engine they could be beginning to short.
3) bad flex plate- hoping its not this as it means transmission needs to be pulled to fix
I've however replaced timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, and both the cam sensor and crank sensor. I still get the P0016 code and the jerking above 3500rpm.
The one thing I do know is that if you have a P0016 code you PCM(computer) is not going to let you engine rpms exceed 3500rpm. This is because this code triggers what is called "limp in" mode. In other words your computer knows something is wrong with the car and wants you to take it very easy on it until you get it repaired and by limiting rpm its trying to keep you from damaging the engine more.
I would disconnect my battery ground first to reset the computer code and see if it goes away. If it reappears quickly it could be bad timing (belt slipped) or the sensors are bad(easy to replace). Since the sensors are easy and cheap ($20 each) do those first. All you need is a 10mm socket, standard screwdriver and a flashlight. IT you still have issue after that I would suspect your timing belt. When was timing belt or water pump changed? If it has been 100K miles or so you should get them done anyway as routine maintenance at the least.
There is only a few more possibilities for me to check to fix my issue.
1) Good oil change and flush AFTER I remove my new sensors and clean out the ports they bolt into- I hear gunk build up can mess with the sensor signal readings.
2) bad wiring to sensor- considering the wires for this are old and basically lay across the top of a hot engine they could be beginning to short.
3) bad flex plate- hoping its not this as it means transmission needs to be pulled to fix
#6
Mine was the flex plate. Hairline crack right round the centre. Could hardly see it but 1 tap with a hammer and the centre fell out!
Was able to replace with engine and transmission still in the car - just had to seperate them. $60 part - 8 hours labour.
Was able to replace with engine and transmission still in the car - just had to seperate them. $60 part - 8 hours labour.
I'm having the same issue with my Chrysler Pacifica 2005
I've however replaced timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, and both the cam sensor and crank sensor. I still get the P0016 code and the jerking above 3500rpm.
The one thing I do know is that if you have a P0016 code you PCM(computer) is not going to let you engine rpms exceed 3500rpm. This is because this code triggers what is called "limp in" mode. In other words your computer knows something is wrong with the car and wants you to take it very easy on it until you get it repaired and by limiting rpm its trying to keep you from damaging the engine more.
I would disconnect my battery ground first to reset the computer code and see if it goes away. If it reappears quickly it could be bad timing (belt slipped) or the sensors are bad(easy to replace). Since the sensors are easy and cheap ($20 each) do those first. All you need is a 10mm socket, standard screwdriver and a flashlight. IT you still have issue after that I would suspect your timing belt. When was timing belt or water pump changed? If it has been 100K miles or so you should get them done anyway as routine maintenance at the least.
There is only a few more possibilities for me to check to fix my issue.
1) Good oil change and flush AFTER I remove my new sensors and clean out the ports they bolt into- I hear gunk build up can mess with the sensor signal readings.
2) bad wiring to sensor- considering the wires for this are old and basically lay across the top of a hot engine they could be beginning to short.
3) bad flex plate- hoping its not this as it means transmission needs to be pulled to fix
I've however replaced timing belt, tensioner, pulley, water pump, and both the cam sensor and crank sensor. I still get the P0016 code and the jerking above 3500rpm.
The one thing I do know is that if you have a P0016 code you PCM(computer) is not going to let you engine rpms exceed 3500rpm. This is because this code triggers what is called "limp in" mode. In other words your computer knows something is wrong with the car and wants you to take it very easy on it until you get it repaired and by limiting rpm its trying to keep you from damaging the engine more.
I would disconnect my battery ground first to reset the computer code and see if it goes away. If it reappears quickly it could be bad timing (belt slipped) or the sensors are bad(easy to replace). Since the sensors are easy and cheap ($20 each) do those first. All you need is a 10mm socket, standard screwdriver and a flashlight. IT you still have issue after that I would suspect your timing belt. When was timing belt or water pump changed? If it has been 100K miles or so you should get them done anyway as routine maintenance at the least.
There is only a few more possibilities for me to check to fix my issue.
1) Good oil change and flush AFTER I remove my new sensors and clean out the ports they bolt into- I hear gunk build up can mess with the sensor signal readings.
2) bad wiring to sensor- considering the wires for this are old and basically lay across the top of a hot engine they could be beginning to short.
3) bad flex plate- hoping its not this as it means transmission needs to be pulled to fix
#8
question: 2005 town and country with 3.8l - code p0016 in system and vehicle bucks and jerks when accellerating -- have replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, timing chain - watched cam sensor and crank sensor signals at processor with lab scope and patterns seem normal to the eye - have also checked flywheel for damage/breakage through inspection cover at base of bell housing - need help before i pull out what remains of my hair
#9
Mine was a cracked flex plate/flywheel. I couldn't see any cracks through the inspection hole. Even inserted a camera and couldn't see any cracks with that. Wasn't until I pulled the flex plate out that it revealed a complete hairline crack right through the whole thing. I wouldn't be surprised if you have the same thing.
question: 2005 town and country with 3.8l - code p0016 in system and vehicle bucks and jerks when accellerating -- have replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, timing chain - watched cam sensor and crank sensor signals at processor with lab scope and patterns seem normal to the eye - have also checked flywheel for damage/breakage through inspection cover at base of bell housing - need help before i pull out what remains of my hair
#10
thankyou justinbat
Mine was a cracked flex plate/flywheel. I couldn't see any cracks through the inspection hole. Even inserted a camera and couldn't see any cracks with that. Wasn't until I pulled the flex plate out that it revealed a complete hairline crack right through the whole thing. I wouldn't be surprised if you have the same thing.
it sound very logical and it will be my Saturday project - i will keep you posted
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