Hey all, new guy here and I need help. The wife had our 2001 Town & Country Limited open ALL day while she was cleaning it up and it drained the battery. It came right back too life after a little while on the battery charger, but now the radio does NOT display anything.

The 3 little equalizer lights/buttons are flashing but the radio face/window is dark. Nothing else in the tower/console seems to have been effected. I pulled and checked every last blade type fuse in the power module under the hood and they all checked out OK. I gave each of the brightly colored box-type fuses a good visual inspection and they all look good.

#1) Is there an "unlock code"? Someone mentioned holding down a pair of buttons above the radio for an older model van?

#2) Is there an interior fuse box in my '01 T&C Limited? If, yes, where is it? (it isn't down around the brake pedals or steering column, I've had all of that apart already)

#3) Where can I buy one of those, big, fat, old fashioned, printed FSM's for this beast?

Thanks in advance for any and all help, it is greatly appreciated.

 

Darn! I was hoping someone would answer #2. The owners manual is particularly not useful for anything about fuses. I have the Chiltons for this model if anyone needs wiring diagrams or other help. Chilton doesn't even tell you if there is an interior fuse box, it talks about different models and fuse boxes, with pictures but doesn't clarify. I had the first panel off below the steering wheel and there is just a harder to get off black panel under that one. I can't believe Chrysler would have you remove two panels to get to an interior fuse box.

 

there is not a fuse box inside the cabin

 

Thanks for confirming that, I didn't take off the black cover underneath the first cover.

I'm trying to help a neighbor with this 01 T&C 3.8L with auto temp control. His AC blower doesn't work at all. I isolated it to the blower resistor pack. If I jump the two big wires going into the resistor pack to the blower wires exiting the resistor, I get full blower. His ATC control head has the little lights coming on suggesting but not controlling the blower level, so I think that part is OK. I'm going to have him order a new resistor pack. $71+ at Advanced Auto, $48 including shipping from Rockauto.com. Advanced auto insisted that the cheap $11 resistor was for ATC and their $71 one was for non-ATC. I am sure they have their data reversed.

His right powered sliding door also doesn't work. That's my next challenge.

 

Look at the wire harness in the black wire track

 

I went out in the dark with a flashlight and looked at it. I don't see any damaged part of it. It does run right past that tracking gear, but there doesn't seem to be any abrasive contact. The wire inside the track can only be seen through the slots in the encapsulating track. I would guess it would be hard to get wires in and out of that track. Anything special I should look for other than obvious external damage? Any tests I can run to see if the motor is working? The six wires running to the motor make it a diagnostic challenge, since even Chilton's manual doesn't cover the auto door for the 2001 model. Maybe later Chiltons do. I assume it needs 6 wires, 2 for the clutch, and 4 to make it a 12 VDC reverse direction motor.

While I was trying to make it work, and the rear locking motor was churning, I observed that there was no voltage to the main motor clutch coil. The coil measures good, (14 ohms) and seems to create a good magnetic field when separated and hit with 12 VDC. Is there a place I can find the motor wire codes?

How reliable is that electronic module that controls the door motors? I guess I could try switching modules left and right and eliminate that as a problem, since the left door works.

 

Sliding Door

Have a look here, the black plastic track harness is an infinite series of 'joined' clips :

- easy to completely remove
- easier to just clip-open the part you need to look at / repair

 

Thanks QinteQ, with the help of that video I was able to get the track off it's end mount, open the track links and pull out the wires. Using a pointed device on the corner of the link tabs worked good, one quick motion. But I don't see any damage or kinks or weak spots on the wires. I checked continuity on all the wires from the door harness to the farthest point I could get to on the track on the vehicle end, and they were all good. Is there a good voltage test I can do in the door for 12 VDC, close to the main cable drive motor? I've got the door cover off.

 

Would love to see if someone could answer this original post. I have this same issue, same car - battery went dead, sine then radio will not work (although lights up which tells me there is power and not a fuse issue). Anyone know what the issue is?

 

the radio is bad