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New Group Member/new T&C Owner

  #1  
Old 02-11-2012, 01:12 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 14
Default New Group Member/new T&C Owner

Hi,

I Have just recently acquired a 1966 T&C LXi. It has 143000 miles and seems to be in great shape. I fixed the driver side passenger window switch so there is not anything left to do to it at this time. Engine and tranny seem fine, good tires etc etc. But of course, I will be doing the usual fluid checks and changes and inspections over the next few weeks to get acquainted with it better.

I do intend to use it for some traveling in the summer.
So, I would like to get armed with good T&C information over the next few months,.... with your help..

So.....Could you guys throw information out to me that a T&C newby ought to know.

For Instance. (But of course not limited to)..

1 General maintenance,, What things should I really check into better or learn about now? I have one of those rather weak Haynes books, but of course it does not tell much.

2 Potential problems,,, What parts really have a bad track record and ought to looked at early on? (For instance, like in my Buick, the intake manifold is a really bad trouble spot we always warn others about.)

3 Spare Parts,,,,I have access to a u pull it place that has a lot of Chrysler Van products. Are there some used parts that might be good to get just in case..??
When I travel I always to carry a few "insurance" parts and "insurance" tools to guard against something actually going bad.

4 General info,,,,For instance How does one go about changing the rear bank of plugs?

Looking for great tips and info from your guys

I will probably be asking some specific questions later.

Thanks

John
 
  #2  
Old 02-11-2012, 01:16 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Carolina
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Default

Hi
I meant 1996 not 1966
 
  #3  
Old 02-11-2012, 03:25 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California
Posts: 722
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Ya, I was about to call Ripley's about your 66.

1) Manual options. Ebay has factory manuals from time to time. EBSCO/ARRP through your local library is a good free source not so much for procedures - not much better than Haynes - but for wiring diagrams, maintenance schedules, TSBs, recalls, and more for just about any vehicle on the planet. The library gives you the password and you access it from home. Alldata and Mitchel's are subscription sites for e reasonable price.

2) Problems? Anything can pop up the older the vehicle is. Based on several forums - suspension sway bar bushings and links; rusting rear heater tubing, rusting front strut towers, radiator cooling fans, various accessory drive belt issues, instrument cluster problems, data bus problems and transmission issues appear with regularity.

3) Spare parts? Besides the usual serpentine belt and hoses I would put a crankshaft sensor on the list for a long trip.

4) General stuff? I change the rear bank of plugs from the bottom. Yup its cramped but doable. Some pull the wiper tray and go at it from up top but it didn't help me much. Some even pull the intake manifold. Too much can go wrong there.
> The clockspring assembly mounted behind the steering wheel has a special extended lifetime warranty. They produce an airbag light, dead cruise and/or horn.
> Use absolutely nothing but ATF+4 transmission fluid in the tranny. Your manual says ATF+3. It's out of production. +4 was mandated in a TSB in 2004(ish).
> You can read powertrain codes in your driveway without a scanner. Cycle your key from off to on x3 leaving it on (not start). Count the flashes of the service engine soon light to determine the two digit code. A scanner will give you more comprehensive "P" codes.
> Headlights lenses often get cloudy. Kits are available to clean hard cases. I just use a lens cleaner once a month or so.
> Head to the Chrysler website, go to the owners area, punch in your vin# and find out if you have any outstanding recalls on the van. There are around a 8-10 so far.
> I own a 96 Gr Caravan LE with the 3.8 ltr engine and 210K+ miles. It's had it's problems but as you can see it's still in my driveway after 17 years. Still has the original tranny. Runs like a top giving me 23/24 mpg on a trip. Happy to help.
 

Last edited by Raptor 07; 02-11-2012 at 03:44 PM.
  #4  
Old 02-11-2012, 06:24 PM
Junior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 14
Default

Raptor,

Thanks for the quick reply, good to know that I am now an operating member of the group. Ha Ha

I am not in a big rust area so I am not too concerned about rust, and anyway I prpbably should be able to see it is it is getting out of control.

The issue of "rusting rear heater tubing"" is one thing that I had also seen a few days ago somewhere else. That really got my attention.
I do not have a clue as to what that means except that it sounds like a nasty coolant leak somewhere.

Could you add more to this?
I do not even know how the rear hearing system works. Is there a long line gong to some heater core in the rear somewhere? How do you get to it to deal with it? Can it just be capped off at the source?


One of my first maintenance things on this one was to polish the headlight lens with toothpaste. First time I had actually done that to a cloudy lens. It did work pretty good.l

John
 
  #5  
Old 02-11-2012, 10:44 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 14
Default

Hi again,

I have been dong a little research on this leaking rear heater coolant line. Came up with this for 1996 thru 2000's.

A DORMAN part 626-300 (OEM Chrysler No 4677557AA)

Is this thing that is the trouble maker?
Pretty mean looking part.

John.
 
  #6  
Old 02-12-2012, 01:50 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California
Posts: 722
Default

Not sure but that looks like it may be the hose assembly at the forward firewall just behind the engine that leads to the rear hoses. If that's the case, yes it's one of the trouble makers. The heater lines run the length of the van underneath from up front down the passenger side to the rear heater core in the rear HVAC unit mounted behind the passenger side rear trim panel. They can spring a leak anywhere along their length. When a leak happens some just cut out the rusted part and replace with conventional rubber heater hose and clamps. Yes it can be capped off.

Rear heat turns on when you select hot on the driver's temperature slider switch on the control panel and turn on the rear blower on the same panel or on the switch over the driver's side middle passenger.
 
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