I had a check engine light come on a few days ago. First since i had this car. Always makes you worry about a big bill. I used the forum search function on this side and was able to quickly resolve it (at least for now), thanks to this great forum.

So I thought I'd summarise a few bits here in one thread for other users - not an expert, but sometimes that is a good thing when covering the basics. Happy to be corrected on any of this:

Check Engine Light (CEL) is orange, bottom centre of dial cluster, and looks like an engine block outline. It warns that the computer has detected a fault or odd function. It is usually safe to continue driving with the light on, but should be checked soonish.

If I get a CEL come on, usually I will try to extract the codes, then clear the codes, then see if it comes back again - sometimes it does not.

When you turn on the ignition, the CEL should light up and stay lit til the engine fires up. This is a bulb check. If the light does not come on, suspect that the PO removed it to pass annual check or to hide a fault. You need that light to work if you want to care for your ride.

When driving it should not come on. If it does come on, investigate.

You can read the codes on most models of Voyager without a code reader. Have a pen and paper handy. With the car parked up and engine off, insert key, turn ignition to on (dash warning lights do their bulb check) but do not crank. Turn the key back off; then on and off and on again. You have to cycle it on-off three times like that in less than 5 seconds. At the third cycle to on, leave it on and look at the odometer mileage - it should list any stored codes. Write them down. When finished listing the codes it will say Done or End or something like that. Codes will typically be a P followed by a 4 digit number. If it does not work first time, try again a little quicker. If it does work, feel pleased with yourself, but don't break your arm patting yourself on the back. You still have to get it fixed.

Clearing the codes and turning off the CEL: this is easiest done with a code reader. I have one call a CAN OBDII Memoscan model U581. It cost about £30 or so from a well known internet auction site. It will work on your Chrysler and most other cars...mine works well on my Wife's Ford, my Jaguar, the Chrysler. Not much use on my Triumph Spitfire though!

The diagnostic connector is at the bottom of the kick panel just below the steering column. From the factory it has a black plastic embossed cover that simply pulls off to reveal the standard 16 pin connector. Hook up, power up, turn on ignition, and follow on-screen instructions. It's easy for the cover to get forgotten, so yours might be missing - don't sweat that.

If you don't have a code reader then try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and then re-connecting (disconnect negative or earth terminal first). Note that you will lose some memory settings and the clock will need resetting. Also, make sure you have your radio security code to hand before disconnecting battery.

I have been told (but have not confirmed) that on an automatic Chrysler you can clear codes by start up, drive forward 6 foot, reverse 6 foot, turn off. Repeat three times. You could also try crossing yourself, turning twice clockwise, bending over and making a v sign on the floor....

What does the code mean? I have this link, which I obtained from this site, which appears OK (Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep Computer Error Codes). Once you know what the code means, a simple visual check of connectors and wires might solve it for you. Otherwise, take your fault code and look in the Service Manual for directions on how to troubleshoot. OR enquire on this forum. If nothing else, at this stage you can go to a mechanic and talk to him as a knowledgeable customer, which I believe lowers your chances of being ripped off.

A common code is a P1684 which indicates that battery has been disconnected within the last 50 start ups. Not usually one to worry about.

Well that's it. Good luck and I really hope this helps a fellow motorist someday.

My code this time was a code P1491 which is for the Radiator Fan Relay Circuit. Cleared the code, and so far it has not come back.

Happy Motoring.

 

Good info except:

"Check Engine Light (CEL) is orange, bottom centre of dial cluster, and looks like an engine block outline." >>>>> Depends on the model year

"At the third cycle to on, leave it on and look at the odometer mileage - it should list any stored codes. Write them down. When finished listing the codes it will say Done or End or something like that. Codes will typically be a P followed by a 4 digit number."
>>>>> Where and how it's displayed depends on the model year.

"If you don't have a code reader then try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes" >>>>> 1 minute will clear it

"I have been told (but have not confirmed) that on an automatic Chrysler you can clear codes by start up, drive forward 6 foot, reverse 6 foot, turn off. Repeat three times." >>>> ???

BTW - A P1684 code won't turn on the CE light. It's an informational code.

BTW - Dissecting a code: http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/obd2-codes-explained.php

 

Thanks Raptor, useful corrections.

I like the web site you added, it has some good links on it and the basic dissecting a code page is a useful lesson. If I keep this car another 5-10 years I'll start to know a bit about them.

 

thanks to both of you for the useful links.
I was throwing 3 codes on my 02 t&c lxi awd with the 3.8 v6

p1684--disconnected battery within last 50 startups
p0340--camshaft position sensor circuit error
p0456--very small evap sys. leak

once the rain stops im gonna locate the cam sensor and disconnect and check for any dirty connectors, any breaks in wires/connectors, check voltage (which I remember reading how to here somewhere) and hopefully not have to replace it...

the one link above says to also check the crankshaft position sensor...
wasn't sure if that's correct, because wouldn't it throw its own code?

but to err on the side of caution I probably will do so anyways...

and maybe for shtsandgglz ill try the 6ft forward/6ft reverse thingy too...IF all else fails

 

Check crank sensor too? Yup. Read a detailed explanation of why somewhere once but don't recall details. Either sensor can generate either code. many times a sensor can fail and not throw any codes. Maddening! Would you like the wiring diagrams so you can check wire continuity? Send me a private message and include an email address I can send them to. How? Click Raptor 07 at left.

 

tried and apparently im restricted from that page. can u msg me and ill reply with my email? im a single dad so my time is short with interwebs time...sorry it took so long to reply. the cel is still on still throwing same codes but luckily has not had any powerdown issues. but I need to fix this soon before it gets out of hand. I appreciate any and all help.

 

Just ordered both cam and crankshaft sensors from rock auto...

Once these are swapped, do I need to get the timing checked?

I'm just curious...

Thanks for looking

 

I guess nobody knows?

I just don't wanna go thru all the hassle of installing the 2 new sensors just to find out I need to retime the motor...

can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Congrats on the posting, Munroe, the Memoscan information is +++ useful as it seems not all scanners work with all cars (found this out with the Jag.)

Leedsman.

 

Great information Munro, I'll bookmark your post for future referals. You could try connecting your CAN OBDII Memoscan to the parallel printer port on your Spitfire. Not sure if you'll need an adaptor.