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PCM issues/Check engine light - AGAIN!

  #1  
Old 01-13-2012, 10:36 AM
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Default PCM issues/Check engine light - AGAIN!

We are a military family and we own a 2002 Chrysler Town and Country mini-van. In September of 2008 our "Check Engine" light kept coming on so we took it to the dealer and they said we needed a new PCM for our car. So we did as they asked and we had the PCM replaced. Which seemed to fix the issues, but now it's happening again (3 years later)!! I called Chrysler and they told us that there is nothing they can do for us, so now we have to fork over another $1000 dollars for another new PCM. Has anyone else had these horrible issues with Chrysler like we have? If they don't fix this problem, we are selling our Chrysler and never again buying another Chrysler again. As a military family we work too hard for our money to be screwed over this way. We would rather not deal with a company like Chrysler who clearly has manufacturer defected products and refuses to pay for them!
 
  #2  
Old 01-13-2012, 01:52 PM
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"Has anyone else had these horrible issues with Chrysler like we have?" Some have had much much worse. Some have had zero problems.

Far be it from me to even appear to defend Chrysler but 3 years isn't completely unreasonable for any manufacturer. We all want the "unbreakable" car. Toyota is considered a benchmark for reliability by many but Toyota forums have their share of nightmare stories. I owned an 87 Camry for 14 years. Never changed anything but the normal wear Items. Can't say the same for the two Toyotas I've owned since. I still consider them reliable cars.

PCMs are warranted for 8 years or 80K miles by the EPA. Not sure if that applies to replaced PCMs. Could it have applied to your original PCM? May be due a refund.

$1000 sounds typical for a dealership. PCMs are available at many sources for around $300. AutoZone for one. One popular web based source is http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/ You supply your VIN #, they program it, you install it. Takes 10 minutes.

What code is generating the CE light? What other symptoms are you seeing?
 

Last edited by Raptor 07; 01-13-2012 at 02:13 PM.
  #3  
Old 01-13-2012, 07:06 PM
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8 80 is only from when the car is new so it was over in 2010 or b4 u hit 80k miles
Any part sold by the dealer is 12 months 12k miles that is standard on anything u buy besides things like engines and transmissions.
What are the codes that U have for the check engine light?
 
  #4  
Old 01-13-2012, 07:35 PM
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The PCM was covered under the 8 year warranty and replaced with a new PCM in Sept 2008 (I think I already stated that). 3 years later the new PCM that Chrysler installed under warranty is now broken again. There's no reason for this. We plan to trade the car in "as is" and after we were treated poorly by Chrysler today we will not EVER be purchasing a Chrysler again, too many issues with Chrysler cars, not worth the headaches that come with being a Chrysler customer.

Originally Posted by Raptor 07 View Post
"Has anyone else had these horrible issues with Chrysler like we have?" Some have had much much worse. Some have had zero problems.

Far be it from me to even appear to defend Chrysler but 3 years isn't completely unreasonable for any manufacturer. We all want the "unbreakable" car. Toyota is considered a benchmark for reliability by many but Toyota forums have their share of nightmare stories. I owned an 87 Camry for 14 years. Never changed anything but the normal wear Items. Can't say the same for the two Toyotas I've owned since. I still consider them reliable cars.

PCMs are warranted for 8 years or 80K miles by the EPA. Not sure if that applies to replaced PCMs. Could it have applied to your original PCM? May be due a refund.

$1000 sounds typical for a dealership. PCMs are available at many sources for around $300. AutoZone for one. One popular web based source is http://www.autocomputerexchange.com/ You supply your VIN #, they program it, you install it. Takes 10 minutes.

What code is generating the CE light? What other symptoms are you seeing?
 
  #5  
Old 01-13-2012, 08:31 PM
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hold up a sec this is what U stated "so now we have to fork over another $1000 dollars for another new PCM" if its under warranty u don't pay for anything how is it that u paid 1000 for something under a warranty?
 
  #6  
Old 01-14-2012, 10:31 PM
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I saw that too. Key word being Another. OK, so you are saying you want them warranty something 3 years later, that you didn't pay for in the first place? How did you arrive at that logic? You were covered fully during the warranty period. They have no obligation to you anymore, legally, ethically or otherwise.

Too many issues with Chrysler car, eh? Is this why you kept it for 10 years?
 

Last edited by TNtech; 01-14-2012 at 11:04 PM.
  #7  
Old 09-03-2013, 05:19 PM
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Angry Pcm issues

As I can see, many of you like us, are having issues with the PCM in our Chryslers. I have replaced this Module for the 2nd time in as many years. Did you all know that when Chrysler does replace this, it is a sub-standard re-manufactured part that they are charging you prime cost for (1yr warranty, HAH). We didn't know this until we got the car back and found a sticker that someone forgot to remove, on the box for the PCM (on the firewall) A NEW PCM runs $600.00 (as quoted by Chrysler) but, Chrysler charged me $612 for a re-built. HUH? The 1st one we replaced failed with no prior warning costing us $3000.00. Head Gasket, Heater Core, Timing Belt, Radiator, Water Pump and Thermostat. Not to mention the inconvenience of not having a car. Did Chrysler care? HELL NO! We are now fighting Chrysler. 1st if all we were Quoted one price before having the car towed to Three Rivers Chrysler in Pittsburgh ($720 + tax) but, when the repair was done it ended up a couple of hundred more ($868.64). Why is it that the original may last 9yrs but, these ones you have to buy, last only 2 to 3yrs. Like is said sub-standard parts. Since many of you have the same problem, I think this may warrant a Class Action Suit against Chrysler and I know just the Attorney!
 
  #8  
Old 09-03-2013, 05:37 PM
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Never good to hear a story like yours. Hope you eventually get some kind of satisfaction.

A few bits and pieces. You don't state your model year but the chances of getting a "new" PCM for a 3rd generation van (1996-2000) are nill to none considering they stopped making them in 2002. I haven't seen data on 4th gen vans (2001-2007) but you might assume they stopped making PCMs for them in 2009. You are aware you can get PCMs for $100 off the internet reprogrammed with a lifetime warranty correct?
 
  #9  
Old 09-03-2013, 09:37 PM
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unless your van is a 08 and up they dont make NEW pcm they are all remain units so a new or remain will be the same for a PCM of that year. AS for a pcm taking out all of what U said mmm doubt that they were under lying issues and a timing belt water pump radiator heater core and headgaskets a PCM has ZERO to do with. Can u tell me what the codes were for a PCM because in my 17 years of working with Chrysler I have only replaced a handful for issues the only sure fire PCM replacement code is a 601 that's in internal EEPROM failure no fixing that. Any and all other issues are suspect to a PCM.
 
  #10  
Old 09-12-2018, 02:12 AM
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Default Unexpected Solution

My adventure with Chrysler Pacifica touring 3.5 liter Engine

(How I fixed Mine to run like new)



Parts I Replaced In my quest to fix the car

Battery

Terminals

Transmission control module

Alternator

Power steering pump

Pulleyís

Serpentine belt

Transmission Input speed sensor

Transmission Output speed sensor

Crankshaft Position sensor

Oxygen sensors

Gas cap

Air intake sensor

Idle air control

Throttle position sensor

Cleaned the throttle body

Transmission fluid and gaskets



My Pacifica Like many others decided one day to drop into Limp/ Fail Safe Mode and started throwing an entire Range of Trouble Codes to Include.



02 sensor failure

Loose gas cap

Evap system Leak

Transmission control system

Transmission Control Module

Crankshaft Position sensor

Battery failure



The cars behavior was just baffling I am so careful to keep up the routine maintenance the RPMíS racing almost redlining and the speedometer not wanting to go above 40. It took me just under two weeks and a very huge part of my savings to locate the actual problem and it was nothing the trouble codes ever threw.

Iím not a mechanic so I spent a whole bunch of time on forums and self help sites trying to locate the reasonís my car decided to all of the sudden shut itself down and wasnít responding to the new parts like it should if those things were really the problem. I was determined and the cost for parts alone was so much that I was my own mechanic and was certain I had done everything very carefully and correctly.

The Gas Cap Light and the Evap system leak

After replacing the parts indicated by the trouble codes the problems still existed so I went back carefully over everything and found the air intake housing was not properly seated in its place. I had some work done and the housing had to be removed to get to it when it was put back on the holes on the bottom of the housing were haphazardly matched up and shoved down onto the frame the seals on those holes are there for a reason they prevent extra air from getting into the engine and they caused a headache and false gas cap light and Evap systems trouble codes. Simple easy solution to one of the problems.



ALL of the other trouble codes

I replaced everything indicated by the codes and when that did not clear the trouble codes I reasoned that it must be in the parts that control the parts so I started into the wiring the sensors and all of that nonsense until pretty much everything under my hood is brand new. Should have fixed the trouble but it did not. So maybe my Transmission really had gone out and it was time to scrap the car but I couldnít shake the feeling I was missing something had to be missing something but I already replaced everything so what could it be.

I broke the actuator clips in the driver window so I was researching what to do about that since my mechanic skills had already proven so wonderful and I ran across something about the Fuse that controls the windows.

I went out and started looking in the fuse box and found one of the fuses to be named the EATX fuse curiosity got me itís a tiny little 20 amp fuse. What is an EATX and what is the reason for the fuse?

EATX = ELECTRONIC AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE SOLENOID and that is the TRANSMISSION very expensive repair may as well scrap the car when It goes out it puts the car into limp/safe mode and your entire car will throw code because the computer can not register where the problem is really coming from just that everything is shutting down for seemingly no reason. The transmission has not failed the little nothing fuse blew.

I replaced the fuse and the car instantly started behaving better the check engine light was still on so I had the codes cleared and read again it was the Transmission Input speed sensor causing the light still replaced that and the car drives like new from the showroom floor no more check engine light no more problem.

None of the codes, advice from mechanic friends or thousands of forums I poured over looking for an answer would lead one to look at the FUSES plenty of other things mentioned all of them extremely expensive solutions and stuff that in all honesty I just could not afford. I was ready to call it quits and accept that I would have to pony up the money for a new car or a new transmission when I stumbled onto this solution

 

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