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power lock on sliding door not working

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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #1  
rastoma's Avatar
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Default power lock on sliding door not working

2003 T&C manual sliding side doors.

Passenger side sliding door lock will not lock or unlock using switch or remote. It will lock/unlock fine manually by hand.

Is the mechanism hard to get to? Is this a common problem? Is it a motor that can be easily replaceable?

I guess it's not a fuse as the right sliding door power lock still works.
 
Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Put your hand over the Lock "HANDLE" or ****" while having an assistant lock or unlock the door with power....

Does it make any noise......????Can you feel it make any attempt at movement???

From Inside the vehicle...Close the door, and remove the door panel..(Sounds Harder this way, but it wont get snagged on the body)... Remove the 3 T30 bolts on the rear edge of the door that hold the latch in...fish the latch out of the door, leaving the cables in place...Now , with the new latch in hand, one at a time, replace the cables from one to the other, and reinstall....

The Lock motor is integral with the latch, and is not serviced seperately....

Also ...Open the door, and in the footwell you will see what looks like a big "Bicycle Chain" housing the door wiring, Pop one of the links apart, and see if you can pull any of the wires free...(The fatter black one in particular). Broken wires in this "Wiring Track" are a common issue.... Repair isnt going to last long, so its best to replace it at any evidence of damage.
 
Old Feb 20, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Djinn-n-Tonic
Put your hand over the Lock "HANDLE" or ****" while having an assistant lock or unlock the door with power....

Does it make any noise......????Can you feel it make any attempt at movement???
Checked it... no noise or movement felt in the handle at all.

I wasn't able to find a cut wire.

So I'll be attempting to replace the actuator soon.

While I'm there, I need to remove the side panel on the same side to the left of the sliding door. There is a 12v receptacle there that has gotten pushed inside the panel.

Any suggestions or tips needed to remove that panel? I haven't really looked at it yet so what is involved in removing it but thought I'd ask while I was giving the above reply.
 
Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:02 PM
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the power lock actuators on the sliders are known problems. I've had to replace a couple on a several of the van I work on.

Not too difficult a job.

Check out this post on the removal and repair of the door lock actuator.. There's a little DC motor that is the actuator, and some people have replaced this motor itself; I've just replaced the module.

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...ight=door+lock
 
Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by sapp4l
the power lock actuators on the sliders are known problems. I've had to replace a couple on a several of the van I work on.

Not too difficult a job.

Check out this post on the removal and repair of the door lock actuator.. There's a little DC motor that is the actuator, and some people have replaced this motor itself; I've just replaced the module.

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sho...ight=door+lock
Thanks for the link. I wish I had seen that before ordering the actuator, I would have liked to try the motor replacement first. I ordered the actuator from RockAuto, was about $45 shipped (using coupon).

I'm going to order a couple of those motors though as I know the other side will need to be fixed one of these days and hopefully can fix it on the cheap with that.

Looks like shipping as gone up considerably from the supplier on Ebay everyone was buying from. Found two motors for $5.71 plus $1.99 shipping from a US supplier, ebay username zinky86.
 
Old Apr 27, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #6  
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Daft question but if there is some movement of the looking handle/**** when trying to unlock with the remote fob - does that mean its not the actuator but a door latch problem instead?

Thanks in advance.
 
Old Apr 27, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #7  
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That wiggle that you see is the lock motor Making an attempt to open, which proves that the wiring is acceptable and your latch is sticking or binding....So yes you are correct........BUT.....................

The actuator is part of the door latch and neither is serviceable by itself....so latch replacement is required .
 

Last edited by Djinn-n-Tonic; Apr 27, 2011 at 04:32 PM.
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