Hello,

I have a 2005 T & C (Touring)with power sliding doors. It just went out of warranty about 5 months ago. The passenger side power sliding door now only automatically closes about 3/4ths of the way. It stops before fully closing and must be manually secured. Are there any visible proximity sensors that I can clean or replace? Has anyone else encountered this problem?

Thanks,
Bill

 

The only time I have had what you describe is a broken wire in the wire track along the bottom of the door

 

Hello,

More info. After looking at the door for a little bit (all I did was lube the guide wheels as the door was slightly difficult to move manually), the power mechanism won't work at all. Also, when the unit was functioning, it would not retract the lock mechanism enough so that the door would shut and latch. WhenI manually tried to close it, it would BANG as the metal tab in the latch hit the stirke plate. If Ipushed the metal tab down, it would easily open further (about 1/4")and the door could then be manually shut.

Now, every time I depress any of the three'open door' buttons, it sounds as if the power door locks are actuating and nothing else happens. Also, when the door is just about shut, the latch mechanismused to engage and pull it home. This no longer happens. Since I'm cocnerned about using the door, I was looking for some advice. Could this be a motor issue, a latch issue or both? Any info would be appreciated....

Thanks,
Bill

 

Well, I found the problem. There was a broken wire (black) in the flexible tread at the base of the door. I took off the tread (the links release by pushing from the underside) and soldered in a short piece of wire. Hopefully this holds up.

 

Did this hold up for you? I am having the same problem with the door only closings 3/4 of the way. Also, when opening,it stops once it gets to the same point.

 

i got the same thing......black cable broken in the midle simple job to sort out.......................can talk you through it if ya need to
tommy liverpool uk

 

They have modified the wire track so I would advice replace instead of repair.

 

I thought this door issue used to be a "sticky" (along with several other common issues) ... did we lose the stickies in the forum upgrade, or am I just imagining it?

 

Hello,

Once I could see the broken wire (by removing the flexible track), I just stripped off the insulation and exposed about 1/4 inch of conductor (on each end). Then I soldered in a 2 inch splice. This was done to prevent the strain that previously casued the wire to break. Works like a champ now and only cost 1/2 hour of my time. Use 12 or 14 gage stranded wire to ensure appropriate current carrying capability. I think replacing the whole harness would be a lot more time consuming and expensive.

Bill

 

harness is about 100 bucks and takes 20 min to do.