rear crankshaft oilseal and clutch! apart from that looks like a great buy!!
 

[sm=helpout.gif]hi to all at Chrysler Forum! just bought uk 02 voyager 2.5 crd se 81000miles 2 weeks ago, oil leak discovered. been told it is rear crank oilseal. also advised to replace clutch as it wouldn't be much if any extra in labour and clutch at age where it makes sense to have it replaced i've been told. i've bought seal and 2 washers from chrysler for £75. quoted £300 inc. vat for clutch kit. anyone know of any reliable aftermarket clutchkits at reasonable prices? iv'e come across adk,ada,ashika & luk so far, any good?? Can't afford dealer/ big garage repair. My mechanic said he can do it, but as he's never done seal n clutch on voyager before, i am trying to find out if he can expect any nasty surprises or is quite straight forward for any mechanic worth his weight in snap-on tools, any advise, tips,warnings would be much appreciated from all knowledgable n experienced people. thanks in advance!

RE: rear crankshaft oilseal and clutch! apart from that looks like a great buy!!
 

Hi
yes covered here before https://www.chryslerforum.com/m_23646/tm.htm

RE: rear crankshaft oilseal and clutch! apart from that looks like a great buy!!
 

Just a suggestion to the mods - would it be possible to create a FAQ section for the common faults and fix it to the top of the T&C section - might save answering the same questions more than once as I'm sure some of the questions I've asked must have been answered previously.

RE: rear crankshaft oilseal and clutch! apart from that looks like a great buy!!
 

thanx for pointin' me in the right direction Merlin. i actually read that post earlier duh! i've heard or read somewhere(chrysler fsm cd offa ebay), that you need special tools only used by chryslermechs for inserting rear oilseal. also told by 1 garage they could'nt do clutch as it requires this "special tool" is this another chrysler money maker or will my mechanic be doing a lot of head scratching. actd, that would be a good idea for newbies like me who sometimes dont know right terms to use in search box.

RE: rear crankshaft oilseal and clutch! apart from that looks like a great buy!!
 

Hi
No your mechanic will do it easy

i hope so merlin, when mechanic can fit me in! he's been bedridden with flu n now working through his backlog before he can sort me out. in the meantime am i ok driving around locally, as long as i keep an eye on the oil level or is it not advisable?

update, mechanic has messed it up!!
 

Right! finally got car into garage last sunday, got it back monday afternoon thinking at last i can finally enjoy my new purchase, WRONG!! for starters, mechanic said he couldn't fit bigger O ring as he couldn't find old one to replace ??!!WTF! still seems to be leaking even if it is a lot less, but mechanic reckons its only old leaking oil collected on splashshield (why he didn't clean it up, god only knows, even an amateur d.i.y.er would've cleaned it up wouldn't they?! ) Also clutch is not right after replacement. vibrations/buzz through pedal soon as you depress it. engine shudders, as you pass biting point on way up and gear engages. severity depends on how much throttle you give it, less rpm more shudder/shaking. he tried fobbing me off with excuse about new clutch plate/disc bedding in, then changed tune to possible defect in spring fingers, either way he has said he will put it right if clutch didn't smooth itself out. he's also broke or knocked out of sync the drivers power mirror, it doesn't know when to stop when unfolding/folding and just to add insult to injury driver window was stuck in down position, when i picked car up,it was playing up few days before, so can't really blame him for that, good job the weather is good here in the uk!! I am taking it back to him tomorrow, need pointers as to possible reasons and solutions to problems namely where exactly does the larger O ring go and where has he gone wrong with clutch, it was fine previously, only reason for replacing was while gearbox was out, it was common sense with 80000 miles on clutch! i even gave him a copy of thread of milesy boys about rear main seal with merlin giving pointers to how it should be done and also print outs from fsm cd bought off ebay regarding gearbox, clutch removal and installation. hoping/praying its just a minor adjustment for the clutch but at least while he opens it up again , he will have a chance to replace the other O ring. please merlin help me end this nightmare.

ok to replace the big O ring (well all 3) he should have pulled the rear bearing off. When you remove the back plate (4 bolts) to get at the rear seal you put 2 bolts in the rear housing and (evenly) wind them in to pull off the rear housing. You can then do all 3 off the vehicle. NOTE: I did already say this in the other post.

thanx for taking the time to reply merlin. yeah, i did give him a print out of your reply to milesy boy, there's nothing i can do if he was too arrogant to take someone else's advice first time around. he was very confident and blahzay beforehand, considering he had never done any major work on a voyager previous to mine. i think he'll be a bit more open to suggestions this time around, I'll make sure of that! I don't think he pulled out crank housing so therefore couldn't see 2nd O ring, at least engine hasn't locked up so he's got that bit right(i hope). will he be able to replace this 2nd time around without damaging the newly fitted seal or will he have to replace that as well? also any pointers on the clutch, merlin. once again thanks!

Hi
I would get another rear seal just to be sure.
As for the clutch would suspect faulty clutch as I have never had any problems.
As for the mirror it will need a new one.
As for the window suspect new regulator.

thanks merlin, sorry for late reply, I am going back to him tomorrow. clutch still playing up and car still leaking oil. mechanics reasons/excuses are starting to sound feeble, i think he was just trying to delay the inevitable. anyway i agree seal should be changed ( what about the smaller o ring that he admitted he just about found and replaced, would that need to be changed as well?) i can see him saying there's no need to replace seal and the smaller o ring, thus not having to pay for a new seal and o ring from chrysler at £65. is it possible to get rear housing/bearing off without damaging seal and smaller o ring or would he be trying to pull a fast one on me by telling me they will not be affected. also clutch will prob. need replacing and he admitted as much after a bit of pressure, although he blamed faulty product and not his workmanship, but have also been advised by more knowledgable heads than me that it could be that flywheel needs "smoothing out/ light sanding" ?? or there could be oil grease on clutch. again, apart from your reason of defective clutch is there any other genuine possible reasons he could give or will he try and blag me again. i just want as much information as possible so i can get him to sort out his mess as quickly as possible minus the B.S!! thanx merlin!

Hi
Flywheel should be ok if you didn't have judder before. Clutch could have oil on that could give you this judder but I also suspect the clutch to be faulty. He could save the seal but I advice replacement just to save taking it apart again. do make sure he lines up the oil way when refitting or you will have no oil to the rear bearing and pulls it off nice and easy / even as to not crack the oil way in the housing. I think this post is a + for paying a bit more for a dealer to do it.
Best of luck hope it all goes well.
Regards,
Merlin

cheers merlin, yeah you're right, the dealer don't seem that expensive at this moment in time. lets get through this and i'll look out for a chrysler experienced mechanic next time( anyone know of any in the bolton/ manchester area?) or do loadsa overtime and let main dealer handle future repairs. sorry for asking stupid questions but can you explain a bit more the part when you say "do make sure he lines up the oil way when refitting or you will have no oil to the rear bearing.." once again sorry for da trouble n thanx for your help. fingers crossed!

Hi
when he pulls the rear hosing off if he looks he will see the oil way that feeds the rear main bearing make sure he lines that up. You put two bolts in and wind them in to pull the rear housing off make sure he uses the bolts and don't use any levers instead.

can the sump be removed in place to check the main bearing thrust washers on
2001 grand voyager 2.5 crv any help please madibaxter

the sump can be removed inplace, what is the issue you have?

Good morning Merlin, thank you very much for your response which is appreciated. We have a 2001 Voyager CRD, 90,000 miles which, for some time has been losing oil and has run very, very low several times, low enough to blow the turbo unit, which we have now replaced with a brand new one. We replaced the 3 rear main oil seals. Upon stripping to replace the seals we found that the end float thrust washers on the rear main bearing housing were very badly worn. It showed no signs of wear on the main bearing shell. We replaced the main bearing housing with a new one. We reassembled it and after road testing there was still a steady drip of oil from the rear main area but, on first starting the vehicle up there was no leak. We would assume that the main bearing thrust washer was worn very badly (the main bearing end cap behind the fly wheel has been replaced with a new one), and therefore the crank shaft moved when the clutch was pressed through excessive end float movement. We want to remove the sump to remove the centre main bearing caps to see if the thrust washers are excessively worn. Can this be done in situ? Are we on the right track to cure this oil leak?
Kind regards
Madibaxter

PS Merlin are there any engine breathers that can cause this problem that need to be replaced or are usualy replaced on a service?
once again many thanks Madibaxter

These a balance shaft and oil pump that I think will be in the way. Sorry long time since stripped one that much.

hi many thanks
best regaurds madibaxter