04 T&C usa model.
Well it has been a tough winter here, had code pop up for RF sensor, replaced with known good unit from my donor van. All was good for 2 months, Now getting ABS/Traction control light again. Spent 2 hours cleaning the teeth(top and valley)of the tone ring. No change, yes the code reader said for RF sensor circuit malfunction, could this be from "scrapping" the sensor due to extreme corrosion(rust) build up on the tone ring? I took the original sensor and reinstalled it and still no good.
My question is more to this, as the sensor is a set place mount, would increased air gap from removing so much rust from the tone ring cause this problem?

 

ok, so it's giving the fault that the sensor is missing/faulty or missing/invalid data coming from it?
The computer does a simple resistance check to verify if the wheel speed sensor is actually there. You can easily test that fault, disconnect the connector hidden in the wheel trim plastic top and see if that generates the same/different fault, that'll determine if you've got a totally shot/faulty sensor (Or wiring), or if it's the actual speed sense data thats the problem.

To check the speed sense data, use a multimeter on a low AC voltage setting, connect to the sensors two pins whilst still in place. Spin the wheel (Easiest to leave tyre on, etc, gives you better momentum) and see if you get a voltage generated. You should get a small voltage generated if the speed sensor/ring, etc, are working correctly.

 

Thanks Andy, I had searched and found the thread from which you post of to test the sensor, and when it stops raining/snowing here again, I will do just that. The tone ring is as clear as a new unit now, but a lot of RUST had to be chiseled off the ring to get it that way , and was concerned about the air gap also. I hope NOT to have to replace the CV joint also. And those sensors are NOT cheap at our local auto parts stores, less than half the price if I order thru online at rockauto!

 

Dang weather! Have had high winds/rain and now SNOWING again! NOT conducive to outdoors working, and it is supposed to be SPRING!
Will up[date testing as soon as I can do it!

 

Yep, no worries! fingers crossed the ring notches are still ok as it looks like a pig of a job to have to change them.

 

OK, was ordering a replacement abs sensor and was looking at replacement quick struts and rear shocks.04 FWD Van has 178K miles on it and is equipped with FACTORY tow package with all the "do-dads"(engine oil cooler & such). Has anyone found the definitive way to tell if rear shocks are the "Nivomat"(self leveling)design, and if so...man are they expensive, around US $200.00 EACH!
All my previous vans have been normal trim, so this was a bit of a shock to me,being the first to hear of this system.

 

Hopefully the quick struts for that vehicle, are not like the quick struts for Dodge Intrepids.
There is a small plate that comes with the strut, on the Intrepids, the plates are different for left and right side.
Problem, the plates that come with the quick struts are identical, and that causes one strut to fail, guaranteed, in about 6 months.
The strut manufacturer swears that their parts are made correctly, but if you go to dodgeintrepid.net, you will see story after story of users who got burned using anything other than factory OEM parts. Even sensors suck, and I blew thru three aftermarket radiators in nine months before buying an OEM Chrysler one that has lasted four years now.
The aftermarket parts industry went to hell, and the quality really sucks right now.
So, buyer beware, you could be doing the job all over again in a few months.

One of the posts on the subject from dodgeintrepid.net.
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/43-chry...ng-change.html

If the job is simple, go ahead and try an aftermarket part if you want, but if it is a pain in the butt, that takes hours to do, be safe and stick with factory parts.
If Chrysler has two different part numbers for left and right struts, and the aftermarket shows just one, do not buy the aftermarket.

 

Well after some searching, YUP I have the "Nivomat" (expensive) rear shocks!
Now can anyone tell me if factory tow package equipped is the same as what some parts mfg's considers heavy duty suspension, like say for front control arms/Ball joints and such? or just what the difference is?

 

SUCCESS! After getting no signal from the sensor with a VOM and spinning the tire, I ordered a sensor that finally arrived today(total cost $27.00 US) and just got done installing it and road test. Light went out as soon as it hit 20 mph and some dirt road hard stops kicked in the ABS action! No need for a CV joint with tone ring (for now)!

 

Excellent news, glad it was something simple like that!