May or may not be relevant but a similar problem with my Honda, it was the ignition solenoid dry joints, would always start from cold but used to crank and not fire when I've done a few miles, leave it for a few minutes and it would fire up straight away, just took it out and soldered over the joints. Cheap so maybe worth a try.
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Originally Posted by Gazpilot
(Post 70487)
Hi Richard,
I'm on the east coast, sunny Ipswich. I have thought it could be an immobiliser issue but the software I have doesn't show any codes. As I said earlier the only software I have is ipad/iphone based and is pretty limited so may have to have a trip to the local garage. Grant Regards Richard |
Thanks for the kind offer Richard, could you let me know what software you use.
Grant |
a Launch X431 Diagun. Buy Launch X431 Diagun - Powerful & Compact OE Level Vehicle Diagnostic Tool
Regards Richard |
Just Won't Start.
Now there's something to check, Relay, Relay for the fuel pump. Just reading an article regarding a Volvo 940 where it would suddenly cut out or wouldn't start at all. Was a fault know to the trade it seems, don't tell anybody else it seems. The Relay for the in tank fuel pump was found to be the fault. Dry cracked joints on the contacts, resulting in conditions when it would start, others when it wouldn't start. Temp of Relay may cause that. Easy check with spare or new Relay.
Goggs.. |
After a few weeks trouble free motoring the car wouldn't start again, AA man checked and no stored codes but the coolant temp sensor was reading 218 and the intake temp sensor 218 as well, the engine wasn't running. I'm thinking a wiring problem?
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