I've heard that there is a special method you must follow when mounting the wheels to the car otherwise the rotors will warp. I've always torqued all other vehicle wheels in the normal star pattern but just making sure there isnt any unsaid trick to the wheels on the 5th gen Town and Country.

 

If true, leave it to Chrysler to add complexity to simple procedure done for a century. Then again, Fiat now owns them so who knows. Main thing is when you torque them use a torque wrench set to whatever the spec is - probably around 100 ft lbs.

 

And mind put a smeer of Coppa slip between alloy and disc to stop them sticking together.

 

What do you mean? And is this part of the Chrysler "trick" or is this something else?

 

- the job of the wheel studs or bolts is only to hold the wheel in place over the spigot
- the spigot is the centre bore or big hole in the wheel with a lip on it
- its that lip that holds the wheel in place not the bolts
- that lip gets rusted and frequently sticks the wheel to it making it difficult to get the wheel off

What Goggsy was saying is if you have a wheel or wheels off. Scrape and wire brush at least the lip on the big hole and smear it with and anti-seize grease which can be used to prevent disc brake squeal, protect against seizure, and is ideal for use on wheel nuts, bolts, exhaust brackets, flanges, etc.

 

So basically any anti-seize will work if applied to the surfaces where the rim meets the hub and rotor? Is this advice merely to assure everything is not ever bound or is this something to do with Chrysler's proper torquing process?

 

Walk-through for steveatpa.

Yes any anti seize grease [grease that withstands temperature]. Chrysler specific never had a particular 'star' or any other sequence its just common sense applied to all mating surfaces - forget Chrysler in this case apply common logic.

- visually check all mating surfaces, no dust, dirt, bumps etc
- make sure you have everything to hand before you start
- any 'something' including grease between mating surfaces makes it want to come loose
- copper grease can be had in a very light aerosol, ditto loctite and half a dozen others
- I wire brush the studs and never ever use a lubricant as it changes the intended properties of the stud
- 'star pattern' - nip up, pre torque and final torque when the wheels are on the ground
- overkill, but a belt & braces best practice is to check the final torque again after a ? mile run
- the temptation to give it 'just one more click' is widespread - never over tighten
- workshop impact guns should be banned unless the are set to and used only for pre torque

NOTE : I have a still half full 3lb tin of the full size workshop grease after 40 years and a of the same that stays in the socket set., and there's a 3" high tin in the kitchen rubbish drawer that's been there for 30 years. Yes I believe in doing it right first time, and I know this product works.

 

Thank you QinteQ. Now I look important with my own "Walk through" instructions report.

I appreciate your effort completely too, but just let me add that by having to "forget Chrysler in this case apply common logic" goes against my years of accumulated knowledge in automotive skills. If logic was the only variable then cars would be built in such a manner which wouldn't require "special tools" or any other process other than the "normal" procedures. But it seems these days every manufacture has to have something proprietary.

I also totally agree that workshop impact guns should be banned. I cant tell you how many studs the local shops broke on my older van, how many scratches I've incurred on all my vehicle rims, and how many times I've had to tell them not to treat my car like they're some kind of Nascar pit crew member scrambling to shave seconds off their time.

And yes I also believe in doing it right first time.....which is why I ask the same question multiple times over. Getting the right instructions "the first time" helps me not have to repeat the job.

 

Agree completely my friend, but most Americans and UK of our age are still changing their oil[s] at 3000 miles- far too often, because the oil[s] industry says they should, and scares them into keeping the corporate money tree alive with their voodoo myth. Modern oils are planets away from the old stuff and most cars are not used as taxi's with their maintenance schedules.

- understand the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations for your brakes, engine, transmission and cooling & the then recommended fluids
- and apply common sense to your now lifestyle [low miles retired or high motorway use] the now fluid[s]
- most disks are warped by well meaning individuals who apply a jet wash clean to hot disks when they poke the lance into the suspension area to clean

 

True.....true.