Following my threat to install a switch in series or instead of the IOD fuse to cut battery-drain to nil on my GV, I am reporting now that I have done exactly that. It was something Qinteq said about Chrysler withdrawing the IOD fuse for shipping.

Using a blown fuse, I adapted a small connector block/terminal strip to connect with it so easy wiring was available. I had to be a bit careful as there's not much spare room around the fuseholder. A 20mm fuseholder was fitted in series with the wiring to a simple on-off switch (rating is 3A at 250v although that's immaterial). I used a 5A quick blow fuse as that was the biggest I had, with no trouble so far.

Just in time I realized the on-off switch would need to be OUTSIDE the GV somewhere hidden, as with IOD at "off" the microwave receiver for the keyfob would not work. So I fitted it into the grey plastic escutcheon top RHS of radiator grill with some zipties. Thus I followed my own principle of not drilling any holes in the bodywork if at all possible.

I didn't encounter any partic. difficulties with the job, and my post-testing with door open and closed after a few minutes as to battery voltage using the Fluke digital voltmeter indicated a change upward of battery voltage with IOD switched "off". So switch-off results in a positive change for the better.

I'll give it a week with no float charging and the secondary battery switched "off" and see if it cranks ok. on a cold morning. If that's good, I'll take some pictures and publish them here for all to see.

Incidentally, my various other mods. have been no trouble and are still working as intended. However, I've no idea ATM if the various security devices are disabled when IOD is "off". (I should imagine they would be). This partic. mod can be rapidly disconnected back to spec. if anyone is worried. The radio works ok, but is not on its last station. The heater whirrs itself into action immediately IOD is restored, so that has to be switched off. With IOD switched "on" the engine starts and runs as usual.

Leedsman.

 

Anything on that IOD circuit is only used to keep alive aka that key fobs heater alarm ect yes it is designed to complexity kill teh car for storage on the lots after the car is made and stored for later shipping. DO u have a drain bigger then 35 mili amps?

 

Greets Leedsman -

IOD shuts completely down the :

Remote key fob
Radio
Heater blower
Folding mirrors
Central locks
Interior lights when the key is in the ignition
Power seat

Excessive IOD can be caused by :

Electrical items left on
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components
An internally shorted alternator
Intermittent shorts in the wiring
Nutters who bodge wiring into the IPM and elsewhere

BTW you will / should never get a NIL else you would have no maintenance of alarm and security systems etc, Anything under 35-40mV would be standard and expected, anything less than 35mV on a fully loaded GV would be remarkable.

 

Look forward to update in a week as well as pics

As reported on my thread my IOD fuse was blown and then fixed with wire wound around it. What are the potential implications of this

 

Well it will avoid dealing with a potentially expensive BCM change. Just wonder though if the drain could be caused by a far less expensive component connected on the data base.

 

Give your ED a shake lad x30 for £2,58 delivered

 

I'm surprised at Leedsman not getting answer to this voltage leak as there has been many answers on here in past. So unless he gets an answer by Christmas I'll be sending him a Christmas card with Fairies, Gremlins and even Chucky hanging out from under the bonnet...

 

So far it's looking good, but then it's only two days testing as yet. I shall take a list of batt. volts reading with IOD "off", then a same list of volts reading with IOD "on" all the time. Then compare to see if there is a significant difference.
As re. the philosophy of testing, I'm really only interested in what works and what saves money. Qinteq's comment that the manufacturer themselves were pulling the IOD fuse for shipping NEW vehicles hit home with me -- it suggests there is an endemic fault here when GVs are unused for long periods, i.e. the IOD current draw is too high from the word "go". I get different figures about what the IOD current SHOULD be from different directions, i.e. anything between 35mA. and 100mA. Hence my "what works" philosophy. I don't want to be stripping down parts of the electricals "on-spec" as it were. I feel in my bones it's not going to be productive.
Incidentally, my second battery which ATM has no load at all by being switched off, is still reading over 13volt after two days. (I've kept the two batteries on floatcharge for months now). This is impressive. This same battery indicated a self-discharge of only 5mA. under previous testing. Another, Halford battery indicated 40mA. self-discharge, but I'm getting that down. Let's bear in mind that the ignition "off" draw is not the only problem here. The battery self-discharge has to be added to it to make a total parasitic current draw.
The 'super' second battery? It's a Ducellier silver-calcium-calcium type from a Leeds scrapyard at £15. The main battery is non-descript. 'Fraid I need a week or two now to get the figs. down on paper.

Leedsman.

 

- that IOD on / off reading is only of value after 20 minutes, when the BCM decides to sleep any non-critical function
- - or is it ? - yes it must be, because its the 'listening for a command function' that is the cause of the mA draw itself
- 100mA [a guess] would be[listening] running permanent sat-nav GPS / gate opener / remote start / etc, and would have a dual / leisure battery set up

There's a big paragraph in the Chrysler own issue workshop manual on 'parasitic' draw, if I can find it I'll put a link here for you.

 

January 2 years ago Leedsman - hope this helps. You must be blummin' old if you REM tram wires in Hunslet and Tingley Bar