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T&C 2010 18k breaks issues

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  #1  
Old 12-20-2014, 10:27 PM
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Default T&C 2010 18k breaks issues

I have a Town&Country 2010 with 18k miles on it.I notice recently that makes a noise when I push the break on high speed. I checked temp on the disks and rear driver side cold , all the others ok.Replaced pads and disk and lubbed the pins.

I read that a lot of people are having premature breaks issues with this model.I will apreciate any advice on this.Not sure if I'm qualify to go next step to replace caliper , I don't even know how to test if that's the problem.Another thing was that sometimes disk was worm but still alot cooler than the one on the right.

I hope I can fix it myself.
 
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:37 PM
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Car vibrates / shaking when braking , over 50 miles/h.
 
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:53 PM
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warped rotors
 
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Old 12-20-2014, 10:59 PM
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replaced disk and pads ..... disk is cold after driving the car for 1h ..... the other three are hot/worm ( i would say normal temp) .
 

Last edited by iliescu_l; 12-21-2014 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 12-21-2014, 03:32 AM
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Jack up the "cold" wheel and have someone press the brake pedal to see if there is any movement in the brake pads. Also see if you can move the wheel at all by hand when brake is on.
If no movement or braking action at all, using a big screwdriver, lever the pads back into the caliper. If they move, at least the piston is not seized in the caliper. You should then see very easy movement of the pads outward when the brake pedal is pressed.
If still no movement, you need to establish brake fluid is getting to the caliper. At this point, as you're dealing with a safety issue, hand the job over to a professional if you feel at all insecure about a DIY job.

Leedsman.
 
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Old 12-21-2014, 01:59 PM
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Thank you for taking time to answer.
I will check what you said and get back.I did not have the second person to do it before.
What I was able to do it on my own was to press handbrake and locked the disk, and relese the brake and piston went back.So I would think that piston is not seized.
I will be on my way to autoparts store to get a Vacuum Pump & Brake Bleeding Kit.Do you think air in the system will cause something like this?
 

Last edited by iliescu_l; 12-21-2014 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:44 PM
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Update : so I did get the kit to bleed the system and I was getting ready to do it I realized that 11mm was not on any tools kits I have.So all for nothing today.
However I did get someone with me, and I found that the piston is pushing out and it retracts when you operate the brake.I don't know what to say becase after I tested that and push the brake severel times , I did a drive test and it looks like it worked fine.Not as hot as the other three wheels but it was not cold anymore like before.
I wonder if that's because we pushed the brake several times, but tomorrow it will be cold again.

Do you know what will be the cause of having one of them not working as good as the other?What would be the symptops for a system that has air in it?
Is it possible that a caliper piston will be less powerfull than the others because is defective,or is just a metter air in the system?

I will go ahead and order new disks and pads for front to see if the vibrates goes away.
 
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:41 AM
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On my GV the handbrake/parkbrake is unrelated to the footbrake. Putting it on will not check what you want, unless yours is different, say a later model which uses the existing disc brake pads, not a separate drum and shoe affair.
If you have air anywhere in hydraulic brakes, they will feel "spongy" on the pedal. The air bubbles can be so fine you can't see them, just makes the fluid look cloudy. Brake fluid should be periodically replaced as per manual.

It's quite possible your "bad brake" has a partially seized piston in the caliper. Working the piston back and forth with a big screwdriver and someone on the brake pedal will often free it, but replacement of caliper is safest. That brake then will need to be bled in the usual way.

Leedsman.
 

Last edited by Leedsman; 12-22-2014 at 07:45 AM.
  #9  
Old 12-22-2014, 04:33 PM
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The only reason I mentioned the footbrake was because I saw the piston moving up with no problem when I did that.
After I had a worm disk last night after testing, this morning when I got to work " COLD AGAIN".

This is what I think is going on , I have a warped rotor that acts up progressive when is getting hotter and I will fix that by replacing all of them,

At the end I will still have one wheel that is not working right .I would change the caliper ( I bought one last night ) but after I saw that piston moving in and out , I don't know if I want to do it anymore. I'm thinking it does not have enough power to push the pads.
 
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Leedsman
On my GV the handbrake/parkbrake is unrelated to the footbrake. Putting it on will not check what you want, unless yours is different, say a later model which uses the existing disc brake pads, not a separate drum and shoe affair
Correct, starting in 2008, the parking brake utilizes the disk brake pads and caliper.

George
 


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