I have had a T7C 2011 for 2 months now, only used for 1 month, due to holidays and have had the following problems.

The sliding doors inside plastic trim panels rub on the wheel arches when opening and closing. It's been back to the dealer, but no improvement.

Check engine light came on after less than 200 miles. I don't remember the cause exactly, think it was manifold pressure sensor. The dealer reset this, and it hasn't come back.

I had always noticed that the temperature gauge was just high of the centre, but it wasn't till I put the temperature display up that I saw it was getting up to 109 centigrade (228 F). The radiator cap is lifting and pushing coolant into the overflow reservoir. I can see the level going up and down with the vehicle idling.

The coolant in the radiator is looking rusty. I suspect a head gasket is leaking into the cooling system, or worse, as I have read that due to the high pressure casting method used to create the block, some come out porous. These are treated with some sort of silicon.

Can someone tell me what temperature they normally see on these engines (the new Pentastar 3.6L)?

At what temperature does the radiator fan cut in, and does it come on permanently when the A/C is on?
Mine started to come on at 92C, but turning the A/C on does not activate the fan.

 

The coolant temp on mine seems to run at between 201-209 every time I check it after it's lined out and depending on what type of driving I'm doing. The outside temp doesn't seem to make that much difference and neither does having the air conditioning on or off. The cooling system seems quite up to the job on mine, but I've only got about 800 miles on it. The analog gauge is usually just below the middle mark.

 

Below is information on the cooling system for a 2011 T&C with a 3.6L VVT Engine:

Coolant Temperature Fan On = 104°C (220°F)
Coolant Temperature Fan Off = 101°C (214°F)

The engine cooling thermostat is a wax pellet driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by preventing leakage through it and to guarantee a minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93°C (192 to 199°F). The thermostat also will automatically reach wide open so it will not restrict flow to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to around 104°C (220°F). Above this temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled container (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant reaches a predetermined temperature, the wax expands enough to overcome the closing spring and water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.

There is also an Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor that is used to sense engine coolant temperature. The sensor protrudes into an engine water jacket. You may want to have your dealer check that this is operating properly.

The coolant temperature (ECT) sensor is a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor (resistance varies inversely with temperature). This means at cold temperatures its resistance is high so the voltage signal will be high. As coolant temperature increases, resistance decreases and the signal voltage will be low. This allows the sensor to provide an analog voltage signal to the ECM.

I would suggest you continue to work with your local dealer for proper diagnosis and repair.

 

Should the radiator fan turn on when the A/C is on?
Is the fan activated by the engine coolant temperature sensor, or a different sensor in the radiator?

 

The dealer has had the vehicle for 3 days now. They say they saw the temperature reach 106C and consider this normal!!! They also think that the red antifreeze turning orange and rusty looking is normal, even after only 600 miles.

 

The coolant is supposed to look that way. It's pinkish in the jug and goes a little more orange-ish when mixed with water. It's 5 year coolant. I would avise them to stick a coolant temp sensor in it. It may be reading off or dropping out. Seen this a few times.

 

I have the same coolant in my Jeep and it's never turned orange/rusty.
I did ask if they had verified the temperature, which just got me blank looks. I think it is real though since the radiator is pushing and excessice amount of coolant into the overflow tank.
I'm thinking it might be a sticky thermostat since the temperature sometimes jumps from 109C down to 99C in a matter of seconds. Also the fact that the temperature is showing 109C and the fan isn't even running, because the temperature in the radiator is much lower, due to lack of flow.

 

The color will have many shades depending on the mineral content of the water it's mixed with.

 

So can somebody confirm that 109C (228F) is too hot, and that something is wrong?

 

No....

That is perfectly acceptable....

The fan does NOT come on with A/c Alone...it is run by computer strategy, coolant temp, and A/c high pressure. If the A/c pressure were too high...It would NOT work at all.......So rule that out.

A second Checkmark in the YAY column for antifreeze Color....Completely normal....

If the C/E lamp did not come back...consider the matter CLOSED.....

I will give you some sympathy for the sliders....Find a Different dealer.....They arent supposed to hit.