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Voyager Oil Leak, main rear oil seal??

Old Jan 1, 2009 | 07:37 AM
  #1  
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Default Voyager Oil Leak, main rear oil seal??

Hi All and Happy New Year!!

My first post here so..... as it says, my 2001+ Diesel Voyager has started leaking oil, it only done 70k miles, it'snot a major amount yet but it's obviously not going to get better..looking at past posts.. it seams that if you remove the gearbox you can access the rear oil seal from there?? Is this the case and does anyone know any Chrysler specialists that are NOT main dealers that can do this in Scotland?? I live in Falkirk(not my fault!!)

Any help appreciated people, and all the best for 2009!
 
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 09:14 AM
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Default RE: Voyager Oil Leak, main rear oil seal??

Yes you will need to remove the box to replace the seal but don’t just to the rear main seal you will also need the 2 “O” ring seals that go behind it as well, if you don’t you will probably be doing the job twice (been there done that). Sorry don’t know of any one in Scotland.
 
Old Jan 4, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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Default RE: Voyager Oil Leak, main rear oil seal??

Hi Merlin and Happy New Year, what are the parts involved in getting the seals fixed?? seen a few kits on Ebay for ÂŁ15?? how many seals have to get repaired here, and do you know if there are any detailed instructions on the web detailing the correct repair procedure?? also how long wouldI be looking at time wise for a garage to do it roughly?? My local mechanic is a Lexus/Toyota/Import specialist so it would be just to help him and hopefully save some time/money....!

Thanks again

Miles
 
Old Jan 4, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Default RE: Voyager Oil Leak, main rear oil seal??

Hi Miles
Just the 3 parts (seal and 2 O rings) any garage should be ok to do this but will probably take long then the dealer, 4 to 6 hours. Just box out flywheel off engine back plate off. Then you put in 2 bolts to pull the rear crankshaft housing out. You then replace the seal that fits into the housing the O ring around the outside. The new seal comes with a plate inside the seal that the crankshaft bolts go though. Behind that plate is a spacer/ shim you must remember to take this shim out of the old one and fit it to the new one if you don’t the flywheel will go on too far and the engine will lock up. The other O ring fits in the spacer.
 
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 08:14 AM
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Default Oil seal conditioners

Has anyone tried an oil seal conditioner to stop the leak and extend the life of the seals? If so, how well did they work?

I've just been quoted close to Ł900 to replace the oil seal on the basis that while it's apart, it's worth replacing the clutch, fork and pivot as most of the labour is getting to the oil seal (which is fair enough). Since my clutch is still good for the moment, I'd rather not change it if I don't have to.
 
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 02:42 PM
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they wont work they will only clog up the engine
 
Old Oct 27, 2009 | 07:19 AM
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Thanks for the advice - would have been potentially even more expensive if I'd tried them. Looks like it'll be a new seal and clutch in the new year then
 
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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I live near belfast. It cost Ł400 quid to get it done. Plus about Ł150 for seals/oil it might be worth the ferry trip mate!. This was with a main dealers on the boucher road.
 
Old Nov 12, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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The seals are Ł14 from ebay and it's an afternoons job. Just watch out for the half moon shims behind the flywheel. Use some grease to stick these in place before refitting. Also there are 4 seals NOT 3. There is a large one for the bearing carrier, one for the camshaft blanking end, one for the flywheel itself and the actual crankshaft seal. You need to do all 4 and you will need to remove the adapter plate.
 
Old Nov 14, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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The confusion is between a 2.5 TD and a 2.5/2.8 CRD. The TD is 4 CRD is 3 seals.
 

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