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-   -   voyager 2.5td gearbox (https://www.chryslerforum.com/forum/forum-issues-10/voyager-2-5td-gearbox-11339/)

JJONES 04-25-2010 03:21 PM

voyager 2.5td gearbox
 
hello
having trouble with my 1999 2.5 td voyager gear
box, will not go into 1st gear unless at complete
stop and even then sometimes need to go into 2nd
and then into 1st gear. any ideas out there how to solve problem, Like
these gearbox additives/treatments. Noticed it was filled
with incorrect oil when we got it (gear oil rather
than 10 50 engine oil

glowplug 04-25-2010 04:25 PM

You still did not put it in the right section. I said in the Chrysler Voyager & Town & Country section. Anyhow one of three problems.

1. The clutch is not disengaging properly
2. The gearbox has a fault.
3. Rear engine mount
(Start with this one)

Note the oil should be a 10w40 conforming to CCMC G5 or A3/B3 NOT 10w50. Also you really shouldn't be trying to put a car into first unless it is stationary.

JJONES 04-26-2010 02:48 AM

voyager gearbox
 
Thanks for help
sorry about posting in wrong section.
This is our 4th Voyager 2.5td. great car. when i say putting into 1st gear whilst still moving, even at a almost stop snails pace, say when you release foot brake to move of on a slight decline, it will not go into 1st. so unlike any car gearbox i have driven and was in car trade so driven hundreds.
will try engine mounts, as can see the front stabiliser one is badly worn and engine rocks badly when turn off. will look at rear one also. just curious when mountings will effect the cable operated gear changing as looks like engine could be in any orientation and cables would work ok. also wondering about any of these gearbox treatments, if had tried any with results.
Also noticed new problem, whilst turning say on round about, when you put a bit of power down, there is a low pitched grinding noise, when let power up stops. wonder if is CV joints.
this is 2nd voyager we have got with a split turbo intercooler radiator. wondered if is a week point and if wanted to mention on your very useful buyers guide. can be seen with small amount of oil blown onto coolant radiator and hits AC pump. i wish i had read it before i went buy this one.
kind regards.
PS. is there any after market produces that do these engine mounts/stabiliser rubbers, as are bit pricey on ebay-Chrysler parts.
on a side note. we have been running our VM powered voyagers on veg oil with great results, have you heard of any CRD Voyagers using it.

JJONES 04-26-2010 02:52 AM

Yoyager gearbox
 
thanks again for help.
one more point-yes looked at clutch, does not drag in the slightest, looks to fully disengage gearbox.

glowplug 04-26-2010 06:17 AM

The rocking mount affects the geometry of the box big time. The mounts can be had off jeepchryslerparts on ebay. It is just an insert at around £35. You need to cut out the old one carefully so you don't damage the bracket. If you have access to a hydraulic press then just press the new one in. I generally leave the new insert in the freezer overnight and then heat the bracket up with a couple of blowtorches and then tap the frozen insert in with hammer. You should do the front one at the same time, it comes complete. In fact I typically do all four which transforms the car beautifully.

GoPaintless 04-27-2010 04:50 AM

I had awful trouble with my gearbox last year, in fact, I ended up replacing the box, not once but twice!!
Initially when my gearbox failed on me (luckily in a car park so I was only travelling about 5 km per hour)I purchased a recondition unit (big mistake) the reconditioned unit failed about 3 months later and I had to get it repaired.

glowplug 04-27-2010 08:18 AM

And if they have put the wrong oil in you will be changing it again one day.

Note 96-00 manual transmissions use a 10W-40 engine oil

01-08 manual transmissions use Chrysler ATF4

JJONES 04-28-2010 02:35 AM

Gearbox
 

Originally Posted by glowplug (Post 36670)
The rocking mount affects the geometry of the box big time. The mounts can be had off jeepchryslerparts on ebay. It is just an insert at around £35. You need to cut out the old one carefully so you don't damage the bracket. If you have access to a hydraulic press then just press the new one in. I generally leave the new insert in the freezer overnight and then heat the bracket up with a couple of blowtorches and then tap the frozen insert in with hammer. You should do the front one at the same time, it comes complete. In fact I typically do all four which transforms the car beautifully.

Thanks i will give that a go, any idea about the noise when turning and putting power down, are the CV also an issue on the Voyagers?
i have also had another problem that confused me for a while, on two Voyagers. the front brake calliper binding for a while after braking and uneven pulling to one side braking. thought it was sizing piston or sliders on the calliper, but ended up being collapsing flexible brake hose.
thought info may help out other Voyager owners if similar issue.

JJONES 04-28-2010 02:37 AM

any idea what the the problem was with them internally.

JJONES 04-28-2010 02:46 AM

thanks for warning, do you mean changing it again - the gear box or the oil? i did think about changing the oil again after a short trip, and treat the first change as sort of flushing out any gear oil that had remained. one thing i did notice when i drained the original gear oil when i got the Voyager, it was very black with a fair amount of metal in it. i presumed the black was alloy in the oil, but i guess could be the sycncro mesh brass/copper metal as well. most gear boxes other cars, i have drained, the oil has been very clear, so was a bit concerned.

glowplug 04-28-2010 03:12 AM

The copper you saw was due to the gearbox oil. The sulphur in the gearbox oil reacts with the copper/brass on the synchro hubs and disolves it CU + SO2 + O2 = CUSO4 = copper sulphate.

get ahold of opies oils and order yourself 5 litres of FUCH's TiTAN fully synthetic 10W40. However I fear your 1st/2nd synchro hub may be screwed. Saying that however whn I got my first Voyager it was real pain to get into first and it was the rear engine mount.

jackvinsly 04-28-2010 10:10 AM

If you having a trouble in your in car gearbox so you can just check you gear box in side i think it Having a dust thats way occurs this problem otherwise you should check in gearbox oil it may be Empty.

JJONES 04-29-2010 02:59 AM

Gearbox
 
not sure what you mean by dust. have changed oil thanks for help. welded up the turbo intercooler yesterday, nice big split in it. used the low temperature aluminium welding rods. works a treat. car much more power and smoother.
and yes engine mounts are shot, will do that job soon and let you know outcome. am getting use to driving with 1st gear issue now, but still want to fix it. do you know if a VM powered 1998 rover 825 gearbox will fit?
all the best

glowplug 04-29-2010 08:55 AM

Although the engines are the same the gearboxes will be different. The reason these cars have an adapter plate is because the engines were not made to fit nor were the gearboxes. You use an adapter plate to allow you to mate a differentbox with an engine. These engines are boat engines so each car manufacturer that used them will have mated them to whatever gearbox they chose for that particular car. Even if you did find a box that was a perfect match the ratios would more than likely be different which would change your driveability, consumption, performance and the accuracy of your speedo.

Try flushing the oil a second time using the oil I suggested earlier. Sometimes there is enough of the old oil left to contaminate the new oil which results in baulking. Always raise the front of the car slightly whilst draining. If I were you I would take the gearbox off and do the rear crankshaft seal as well. I can almost guarantee that you have an oil leak where the engine mates to the gearbox.

For my sins I can strip these cars with my eyes shut.....makes me wonder why I went and bought another one :-(

boots 06-26-2010 12:58 PM

voyager g/box noise
 
I have a 1999 diesel grand voyager with a noisy gearbox on tick over and on driving.
The noise disapears when clutch is engaged.
I am toying what may be the cause and believe it may be the 1st motion shaft bearing and will be removing gearbox shortly to investigate.
My question is, do these gearboxs have to be stripped to change bearing or can it be removed from inside bellhousing.
Boots

JJONES 06-27-2010 05:52 AM

noisy gearbox
 
not sure if thats possible as only have access to diff. we have voyager with same noise that disappears when clutch is engaged, has been doing it for 50000 miles. it is fairly common noise with gearboxes, i would not bother with it, but would be interested with outcome.

we have a inner CV joint that seems very lose where it goes into the gearbox, wondered if this is normal. the drive shaft CV on the gearbox side only. the other longer drive shaft CV seems nice and tight as would be expected. An thoughts would be welcome. O and makes an awfull noise on right hand steering when putting down power. (seems like CV noise, but less clicking)

glowplug 06-28-2010 12:08 PM


Originally Posted by boots (Post 38328)
I have a 1999 diesel grand voyager with a noisy gearbox on tick over and on driving.
The noise disapears when clutch is engaged.
I am toying what may be the cause and believe it may be the 1st motion shaft bearing and will be removing gearbox shortly to investigate.
My question is, do these gearboxs have to be stripped to change bearing or can it be removed from inside bellhousing.
Boots

Search through my previous posts for a link to where you can download the proper Chrysler workshop manual. I has a full break down of the gearbox. Hopefully it is just something simple like the thrust bearing. Whilst these typically make noise when depressed I have found some that make noise when idling due to warped fingers on the pressure plate.

JJONES 08-11-2011 12:28 PM

voyager 1999 Chrysler 2.5td gearbox
 
just had a another gearbox go have been using the 10w 40 engine oil fully synthetic. after stripping down box, it is the same problem as first. the ball bearing on the input shaft has started to brake up with lots of small metal fragments in the oil.
i have found a supplier of the faulty NSK bearing, 1/3 the price of the chrysler main dealers, if anyone needs a bearing. apparently this is a very common fault/bearing to go on this gearbox.
i found a second hand gearbox, it is from a 1998 2.0L petrol voyager. does any one know if it will fit my 1999 2.5 td.

glowplug 08-11-2011 02:47 PM

2 Questions

1. How much mileage had the box done before you got the car ?

2. How much mileage did you do on the box between filling it with 10W40 and the bearing failing ?

JJONES 08-12-2011 02:51 AM


Originally Posted by glowplug (Post 53237)
2 Questions

1. How much mileage had the box done before you got the car ?

2. How much mileage did you do on the box between filling it with 10W40 and the bearing failing ?

the second gearbox had done 200,000 miles
and it lasted me a further 7000 miles filled with 10w40.
any idea if that 2.0l petrol voyager box will fit my 2.5 td

glowplug 08-12-2011 03:04 PM

Ok so I think you will agree that the box had done pretty darn well. The gearboxes have to use engine oil for the reasons that I have outlined before. As far as I know the 558 box from the petrol should fit but the ratio's will be wrong. Why not just change the bearing??

JJONES 08-13-2011 02:30 AM

yes the second gear box has done quite well. i have not got time at the moment to replace the bearing in the broken gearbox. i have put the 2.0 L petrol box on yesterday and fits the same, have not been on the motor way yet to check the differences in ratios. the 2.5 box would do roughly 90MPH @ 3000RMP, i presume the petrol engine would be revving higher.
any idea if this 2.0L gearbox takes the same 10W 40 engine oil.


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